AlexeyD - Aug 1, 2013 12:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2013
Big route!
Much longer than expected. While the actual technical aspect of the climbing never presented any difficulty (mostly 3rd and 4th class with occasional short easy 5th), we pitched out much of the lower ridge due to concerns about the looseness of the rock, and ended up with a total of 16 pitches (albeit with a 30-m rope), including the simul-ed pitches. Tremendous exposure and views from the entire route, only getting better as one gets higher. Also, rock quality improves greatly toward the summit. Descent down the standard south ridge route was a breeze once we found the way into the gully west of the ridge. Agree with previous statement that it's a great way to get a serious alpine experience at a moderate climbing grade. TR with pictures coming soon!
I recommend this as a great way to climb high and wild without too much difficulty. Take the rope and some pro, but we did the whole thing as running belay. Awesome views and some great climbing.
AlexeyD - Aug 1, 2013 12:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2013
Big route!Much longer than expected. While the actual technical aspect of the climbing never presented any difficulty (mostly 3rd and 4th class with occasional short easy 5th), we pitched out much of the lower ridge due to concerns about the looseness of the rock, and ended up with a total of 16 pitches (albeit with a 30-m rope), including the simul-ed pitches. Tremendous exposure and views from the entire route, only getting better as one gets higher. Also, rock quality improves greatly toward the summit. Descent down the standard south ridge route was a breeze once we found the way into the gully west of the ridge. Agree with previous statement that it's a great way to get a serious alpine experience at a moderate climbing grade. TR with pictures coming soon!
Darren9 - Nov 7, 2009 2:25 am
Fun, fun, funI recommend this as a great way to climb high and wild without too much difficulty. Take the rope and some pro, but we did the whole thing as running belay. Awesome views and some great climbing.