Thanks! Mine were Black Diamond Ice Gloves, taking out the unnecessary inner liner (I don't even use that liner in the winter, it's thick enough already). Theron bought gloves at a shop in Zermatt and returned them (or tried to) because they got wet inside very quickly. I also had some boiled wool gloves I used sometimes. I think I also had some thinner Black Diamond Windstopper gloves. It was good to have three pairs for a climb like that, with so much snow on the rock.
Really enjoyable and informative read - and superb pictures. I climbed the Matterhorn almost precisely a year before (28 July 2007) on the first day the Alpincenter was taking clients up after a snow and you had quite a bit more fresh snow than I encountered. The crowd was a hassle, but part of the problem was that I was a little slower than the average summiteer that day. I'm taking the lessons learned to the Weisshorn East Ridge this summer to celebrate turning 50.
Congratulations, hey the Weisshorn sounds like an awesome idea. That one along with Obergabelhorn and Zinalrothorn are the next big guys on my list there. The Weisshorn is the real daddy too. Long walk uphill! :-)
and fantastic pics (only I would like to see them in better resolution ...)
I can very well relate to your change of mind concerning the crowds - sometimes it's not ugly but sort of joining a solemn procession of pilgrims.
What do you understand by "hang on"? - LEO gives 3 quite different German translations: durchhalten, sich festhalten, etwas warten!
Thanks Reinhard, glad you liked it. If you click on any photo it will take you to Flickr where you can view it in (very) high resolution.
Well, in that "hang on hang on" thing I may not have translated everything correctly. First off it was a mix of languages, I think there was French as well. And it was really just a mash of words in my ears, created by the people trying to hurry down the ropes with a mix of abseils, lowers, and just hand-over-hand descent. Add to that the startled cries of people trying to go up suddenly confronted with a pair of sharp crampons right next to their fingers on the rope and it was probably more a mix of:
"On belay?" "Descending!" "Wait, stop!" "Are you ready?" "Should we go?" "Can you move please?" "Hurry!"
thanks for your answer.
I checked the resolution in flickr now - I'm not very familiar with flickr.
I ask again, just to improve my English: what did >you< have in mind when writing this "hang on", or if this were an article written by someone else, what would you understand? Would it correspond to one of the 3 LEO translations, or to sth completely different?
Oh sorry Reinhard, I think I misunderstood your question the first time. The phrase "hang on!" in English can mean: 1) literally, hang on tightly, so you don't fall off, or 2) it can mean "please wait. Stop. Don't move." In the confused situation around those fixed ropes, _both_ meanings were relevant.
You beautifully captured the process by which a mountain gets inside your head and compels you to climb it. While grilling on the balcony, it infected you. After that view in the meadow, it hooked you. From idea to obsession at the speed of light. Your account of the climb was vivid and instructive.
Thanks so much! It's always more rewarding when there is a process to the mountain, rather than just a random flipping through a guidebook. For the North Peak of Mount Index in Washington, I went all out, finding old mountaineering journal articles to shed light on what seemed very mysterious. That winter of contemplation added so much dimension to the summer ascent! You'll never go wrong letting a mountain soak into you...
I read "The Grand Controversy" before I climbed the Grand Teton. When I climbed, it made it feel like I was going back into history...not only of the Grand, but of mountaineering in general. Many great mountains have inspired wonderful stories that can only fully appreciated when you are on the hill, itself.
Usually SP draws me for the high quality of its pictures, but the articles -like your's are sensational too. Excellent account of the timing of a taffy climb, full of poignant moments and details for us to ponder. Particularly like your repeated use of the phrase "rubble slope" Outstanding in every regard!!
Thanks very much! However I searched for more than one use of the phrase and only found it once. I certainly should have said "rubble slope" more than once though, it is a thing (too) often seen in the big mountains!
mvs - Dec 14, 2008 3:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: GlovesThanks! Mine were Black Diamond Ice Gloves, taking out the unnecessary inner liner (I don't even use that liner in the winter, it's thick enough already). Theron bought gloves at a shop in Zermatt and returned them (or tried to) because they got wet inside very quickly. I also had some boiled wool gloves I used sometimes. I think I also had some thinner Black Diamond Windstopper gloves. It was good to have three pairs for a climb like that, with so much snow on the rock.
joeyodzis - Feb 5, 2009 8:00 am - Hasn't voted
Super PostReally enjoyable and informative read - and superb pictures. I climbed the Matterhorn almost precisely a year before (28 July 2007) on the first day the Alpincenter was taking clients up after a snow and you had quite a bit more fresh snow than I encountered. The crowd was a hassle, but part of the problem was that I was a little slower than the average summiteer that day. I'm taking the lessons learned to the Weisshorn East Ridge this summer to celebrate turning 50.
mvs - Feb 6, 2009 9:30 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Super PostCongratulations, hey the Weisshorn sounds like an awesome idea. That one along with Obergabelhorn and Zinalrothorn are the next big guys on my list there. The Weisshorn is the real daddy too. Long walk uphill! :-)
mvs - Mar 3, 2009 7:28 am - Hasn't voted
Re: sheeshHey, thanks! Another thing you missed, check out my tool made just for badass-trip-report-writin' folks like you: Summitpost Bulk Uploader.
ubersoldat - Mar 26, 2009 7:43 am - Voted 10/10
Very well saidI enjoyed you story very much
mvs - Mar 29, 2009 2:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Very well saidThanks, I appreciate it!
reinhard2 - Oct 26, 2009 6:50 pm - Voted 10/10
Moving TRand fantastic pics (only I would like to see them in better resolution ...)
I can very well relate to your change of mind concerning the crowds - sometimes it's not ugly but sort of joining a solemn procession of pilgrims.
What do you understand by "hang on"? - LEO gives 3 quite different German translations: durchhalten, sich festhalten, etwas warten!
Congratulations!
mvs - Oct 27, 2009 4:12 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Moving TRThanks Reinhard, glad you liked it. If you click on any photo it will take you to Flickr where you can view it in (very) high resolution.
Well, in that "hang on hang on" thing I may not have translated everything correctly. First off it was a mix of languages, I think there was French as well. And it was really just a mash of words in my ears, created by the people trying to hurry down the ropes with a mix of abseils, lowers, and just hand-over-hand descent. Add to that the startled cries of people trying to go up suddenly confronted with a pair of sharp crampons right next to their fingers on the rope and it was probably more a mix of:
"On belay?" "Descending!" "Wait, stop!" "Are you ready?" "Should we go?" "Can you move please?" "Hurry!"
:D
reinhard2 - Oct 27, 2009 8:27 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Moving TRthanks for your answer.
I checked the resolution in flickr now - I'm not very familiar with flickr.
I ask again, just to improve my English: what did >you< have in mind when writing this "hang on", or if this were an article written by someone else, what would you understand? Would it correspond to one of the 3 LEO translations, or to sth completely different?
mvs - Oct 27, 2009 10:24 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Moving TROh sorry Reinhard, I think I misunderstood your question the first time. The phrase "hang on!" in English can mean: 1) literally, hang on tightly, so you don't fall off, or 2) it can mean "please wait. Stop. Don't move." In the confused situation around those fixed ropes, _both_ meanings were relevant.
reinhard2 - Oct 27, 2009 7:51 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Moving TRThank you.
DTressler - Nov 26, 2009 8:27 am - Hasn't voted
You nailed itYou beautifully captured the process by which a mountain gets inside your head and compels you to climb it. While grilling on the balcony, it infected you. After that view in the meadow, it hooked you. From idea to obsession at the speed of light. Your account of the climb was vivid and instructive.
mvs - Nov 26, 2009 12:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: You nailed itThanks so much! It's always more rewarding when there is a process to the mountain, rather than just a random flipping through a guidebook. For the North Peak of Mount Index in Washington, I went all out, finding old mountaineering journal articles to shed light on what seemed very mysterious. That winter of contemplation added so much dimension to the summer ascent! You'll never go wrong letting a mountain soak into you...
DTressler - Nov 30, 2009 4:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: You nailed itI read "The Grand Controversy" before I climbed the Grand Teton. When I climbed, it made it feel like I was going back into history...not only of the Grand, but of mountaineering in general. Many great mountains have inspired wonderful stories that can only fully appreciated when you are on the hill, itself.
mills - Dec 23, 2009 6:33 pm - Voted 10/10
Thanksfor posting such an interesting TR, really enjoyed your acount of the ascent and amazing photos ! Congratulations.
mvs - Dec 29, 2009 8:19 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: ThanksThank you for letting me know you liked it, I appreciate it very much!
JoelSkok - Sep 18, 2011 8:05 pm - Voted 10/10
Just terrificUsually SP draws me for the high quality of its pictures, but the articles -like your's are sensational too. Excellent account of the timing of a taffy climb, full of poignant moments and details for us to ponder. Particularly like your repeated use of the phrase "rubble slope" Outstanding in every regard!!
mvs - Sep 19, 2011 5:22 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Just terrificThanks very much! However I searched for more than one use of the phrase and only found it once. I certainly should have said "rubble slope" more than once though, it is a thing (too) often seen in the big mountains!
JoelSkok - Mar 9, 2019 3:17 pm - Voted 10/10
10/10 of course!Finely narrated climb with splendid photos, first class job all the way. Congrats.
mvs - Apr 27, 2019 9:07 am - Hasn't voted
Re: 10/10 of course!Not often I get to say thank you for reading twice, across a few years! Enjoy the coming summer Joel :)