Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.36680°N / 121.13631°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.7 |
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Approach
Follow the approach to Spiderman Buttress on the main page. Once at the base of the buttress, look for a fist-sized crack on the right side of a low angled (60-foot) slab. This is the standard start to Spiderman. In addition, there are two more variations: a 5.7 face climb (now fully bolted despite what the guidebook says) left of the standard crack and a 5.5 dihedral/crack on the opposite (left) side of low angled slab. It is due to these two alternative starts that the route will be described in three pitches (though most combine pitches one and two). This is a great fun route and probably a good choice for a 5.7 crack leader early on in his career as the moves are exciting and varied but not very sustained and the protection is very good all the way.
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Route Description
Pitch 1: 5.6, c. 60 feet. Climb the fist-sized crack in the low angled slab to a doubly bolted anchor. The crux of the pitch comes right off the ground.
Pitch 2: 5.7, c. 50 feet. Climb straight up the dihedral (mostly stemming moves) and overcome a bulge directly below the belay anchors. This bulge is the technical crux of the route. Pitch two photo from cascadesclimbers.com nicely shows the crux of this pitch.
Pitch 3: 5.7, c. 80 feet. From the belay, step right (awkward 5.7) to reach a finger crack. Climb the crack directly up (relying mostly on abundant face holds) to a nice stance below the large roof. Lieback right and up around the roof (5.7). Note that you can also climb the nubbined-up face on the right side of roof. Easy climbing (low 5th) brings you to the top of The Buttress and another set of bolted belay anchors.
Descent: From the top, follow a faint climbers' trail back and to the right for about 50 yards. You will soon see a descent gully to your right. The final 20 feet of the gully are a steep 4th class downclimb. This will bring you back to the base of the route.
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Essential Gear
Standard rack. Bring a larger cam or two (number 3.5 or 4 Camalot ) to protect the roof lieback move on pitch 3. Otherwise, the route requires pro up to 2" range. All belays are bolted. Bring a helmet as the top of the route is loose. A 50m rope will do just fine.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.