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Normal route from north
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Normal route from north 

Page Type: Route

Location: Tyrol/South Tyrol/Ötztal Alps, Austria/Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.76660°N / 11.02390°E

Route Type: basic glacier climb / scramble

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: ice up to 35 degrees, rock UIAA II (secured)

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Luidger

Created/Edited: Aug 20, 2002 / Aug 20, 2002

Object ID: 156834

Hits: 934 

Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes 

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Approach


From Obergurgl to the Hochwildehaus (2883 m) above the Gurgler Ferner. Easy marked hiking path. approx. 4 hours.

Route Description


From the hut in southern direction without losing height to the Gurgler Ferner (glacier), which one reaches at approx. 2900 m. On the glacier in direction SSE heading for the pass (3150 m) between the rocky Mitterkamm and the Annakogel. Now either

a) traverse of Annakogel (3336 m)

Climb Annakogel (snow flank and rock) and descend on the other side (rocky SE ridge, UIAA I-II, a little exposed in parts)

b) go directly to the beginning of the snow ridge of the Hochwilde

Climb the snow ridge on its right side (less steep) to the frist rocky tower. Circumvent the tower in the snow on the right side. Then you will see cables which will basically lead you to the summit. The climb is a exposed and can be dangerous if icy. But the cables provide enough security.

3-4 hours from the hut

descend: same way (without Annakogel traverse): 2 hours to the hut

alternative: traverse the ridge to the south summit (II, cables) and descend on the south side to the Stettiner Hut (marked path)

Essential Gear


Essential equipment for glacier travel: ice axe, crampons, rope, harness

A sling and biner to clip into the cables can be useful.

helmet not necessary

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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