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Ledge Route Ice Climb
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Ledge Route Ice Climb 

Page Type: Route

Location: GlenCoe, Scotland, Europe

Route Type: Ice Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: II , 450m

Route Quality: 
 - 7 Votes
 

 

Page By: UlrichPrinz

Created/Edited: Jan 18, 2002 / May 13, 2002

Object ID: 156092

Hits: 2427 

Page Score: 36.25% - 2 Votes 

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Approach


NOTE: This description came from the Website: http://www.scotclimb.org.uk/bennevis.shtml
More Routes can be found there, too

Head for No. 5 Gully from the CIC Hut. and once it becomes a proper gully (cliffs on both sides) you should see a 'slopey-shelf' leading off and up to the right. This is the start.


Route Description


The Website above states: "Ledge Route is described as The best grade II on the mountain in some of the guides. It's easy to see why."
Richard Purchon's Comment: "Ledge Route 1,900ft Scottish winter Grade I , a simple snow route not recomended in Climbing guides "

Rest from the web-page above :
Normally an ascent route it can also be descended in summer (easy scramble) or winter should the situation dictate. The routes starts at the bottom of No. 5 Gully and ends on the summit of Carn Dearg.
  • Climb this and then traverse around to the right.
  • This leads to a ledge/shelft above the first pitch of The Curtain which you would see on the walk-in.
  • From here, a gully leads up and left... climb it!
Depending on snow conditions, things get a little hazy about here. The guidebook suggests that you do a long traverse and then you're on the ridge proper which you follow to the top.
We ended up climbing a further 3 pitches all of which were 50m and all of which had no runners (but you shouldn't fall off, should you?).

If you're lucky there will be some nice ice-pitches which you can climb, too, raising the grade to III.

Route finding isn't really a problem (unless you step off the cliff) and loads of variations are possible...


Essential Gear


A Deadman or two are really helpful !

Images




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