Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.95000°N / 23.81000°E |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climbs |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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IV- to VIII- (UIAA) |
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Overview
Even though a fire has destroyed the pine forest that once covered the area, the great view over the Athens basin, its proximity to the city and its variety of routes still make this area worth a visit.
The first climbing routes in Athens are believed to have been opened here (in 1924 by Dimitris Kyriakou).
There are five sectors: Tihos tou Maki, Makrys Tihos, Trypios Vrachos, Plaka and Gouva
Approach
From Katehaki Ave. turn to Kareas Ave. and follow the signs to Agios Ioannis Monastery. From the monastery's parking lot a trail going SE passes in front of Tihos tou Maki and meets a dirt road. If you follow it to the right you will pass under Makrys Tihos. One km down the road you will see Trypios Vrachos on the left and Plaka is lower on you right. Another 500m down the road there is Gouva (an old quarry) to the right.
Alternatively for Plaka walk down the bared dirt road that starts from the parking lot. It will get you about 500m west of the rocks, from where a short trail starts.
Routes overview
Plaka
It forms a corner, with the "Green wall" on the left and the "Red wall" on the right. There is an amazing variety of climbing styles available: slabs, cracks, roofs, overhangs and more. Most of these routes can be set up for TR (from bolts or trees). Some can be led on pro and some can be bouldered (the landings are not to good for this, though).
The routes' numbers are written on the rock. Rock quality is good, though after the fire it chips at places.
"Green wall"
| Nr. | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 |
| Grade (UIAA) | VI+/VII- | IV+ | VI- | V+ | VIII- | V+ |
| Height (m) | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 18 | 15 |
"Red wall"
| Nr. | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 5A | 6 |
| Grade (UIAA) | V+ | VI- | VI- | VII- | V+ | V+ | VII- |
| Height (m) | 9 | 10 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 |
| Nr. | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 |
| Grade (UIAA) | VII+ | VII+ | IV+ | VI- | V- | V- | IV+ |
| Height (m) | 10 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 7 |
| Nr. | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 |
| Grade (UIAA) | V- | IV+ | V+ | IV+ | IV+ | IV+ | IV+ |
| Height (m) | 6 | 6 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 8 |
| Nr. | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 |
| Grade (UIAA) | VI | VI- | VI+ | VI- | VII- | V+ | VII |
| Height (m) | 8 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 8 | 8 |
| Nr. | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | |
| Grade (UIAA) | VII- | V+ | VI | V- | V+ | V | |
| Height (m) | 8 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
Essential Gear
TR gear: 2-3 slings, 2-3 lockers
Trad gear (if you want to lead): Nuts, small cams
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