Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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41.73810°N / 74.1845°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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5.2 - 5.12 |
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Description
This page is now discontinued.Please use The Trapps page under Mountains & Rocks.
Approach
The two main access points to The Trapps are the Trapps bridge (the bridge over route 44/55) and the Uberfall Trail (located between the hairpin turn and the scenic overlook).Running along the top of the cliff is the “Top ‘O”, the Trapps Trail. A descent from here can be found easily. Climbs left or south of “Dirty Gerdie” can be descended on the south end of the cliffs, near “The Brat”. For climbs south of “High Exposure”, Descend the “Uberfall Descent”. For climbing north of “High Exposure” use “Roger’s Escape Hatch” or maybe “Silly Chimney”
Route Description
This is in continual update mode| ROUTE NAME ~ SPORT / TRAD | LINKS | RATING ~ RANGE 5.3-5.12d | DESCRIPTION | PROTECTION ~ QUARTZITE ROCK |
| Absurdland | LINK | 5.9 | Climb the crack and face to a small ledge. Crux is fairly low, #2 Camalot helpful on the opening moves. | PG |
| Annie Oh! | LINK | 5.9 | Start: On the face between Three Doves and Limelight. Pitch 1: Climb straight up the face to the crack on the right side of the large block, Then diagonal left to the large pine tree belay/rap station on the GT ledge (5.8). Pitch 2: Diagonal right to a grassy ledge then climb the left-facing flakes. Move up slightly left then right to a small left-facing flake. Move up right to another flake, then up the face to a small overhang. Traverse left to the crack then up to the top (5.8) (rap bolts & chains). | Standard Gunks rack |
| Big Chimney | LINK-1 LINK-2 LINK-3 | 5.5 | Chimney system right of Matinee | small to medium cams and nuts |
| Black Fly | N/A | 5.5 | Start at a low angle left-facing corner/ramp 20 feet right of "Easy Keyhole". Climb up to the large pine | Excellent |
| Shockley's Ceiling | LINK-1 LINK-2 LINK-3 | 5.6 | The ceiling of this climb is very difficult for shorter people, but is not necessarily easy of you are tall | G |
| High Exposure | LINK-1 LINK-2 LINK-3 LINK-4 | 5.6 | The first pitch of the actual route is a simple 5.5, though there are many alternate routes for the first pitch, allowing the climb to be as high as 5.10. The last pitch of High E is the famous pitch. The belay ledge is in a huge horizontal slice out of the rock, so that there is a roof over your head. When facing the cliff, the pitch goes up left on to a shelf, then traverses the the right. At that point, you have to lean out and reach for the rock above your head. | Gunks rack to 3" |
1 Trip Reports
nartreb - Jun 10, 2008 7:59 pm - Voted 4/10
Book suggestionUntil this page gets vastly further built out, most folks will rely on guidebooks. The Williams book on the Trapps is vastly superior to the Swain book.