Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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V+ |
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Approach
Located on the Delta Spur this route (meaning "Lightning conductor" in German) is approached from the road from Kastraki to Roussanou monastery. From the fork on the road 300-400m before the monastery a 20' trail going south ant then east at the first junction takes you to the base of the route.
Route Description
The route isn't one of those you have to wait in line for, so there is some loose rock & vegetation, not much of a problem, though.
Picht 1
The route follows a thin crack diagonaly to the left (IV+) . Soon it continues onto a slab slighly to the right and left again (IV) to a hanging belay (30m)
Pitch 2
The second route continues straight up for ~10m (IV), traverses left on a slab an goes up again following a system of grooves (IV). The exit is diagonally to the right to a slightly more comfortable belay (35m).
Pitch 3
The first move after the belay is the route's crux (V+) which gets you into another groove. A few meters diagonally to the right on a slab lead onto a ramp going left. The belay is made on trees in the middle of the ramp (30m)
Pitch 4
The fourth pitch is actually a roped walk up to the summit. After signing the summit log rappel through "Ostweg" (the route on the east face, directions in the summit log)
Essential Gear
Double 50m ropes, 6-7 draws, slings, 1 set of stoppers