The Feathers

Overview

The Feathers, a group of short pillars immediately next to the parking area, is an excellent beginners and warm-up area. Most of the routes are bolted, with heights ranging from 25 to 55 feet. There is a convenient walk through area right in the middle to access to routes on the north side. A lot of experienced climbers will go here for a moderate warm-up climb before they depart for places like the Sunshine Wall.

Suites of Carrion Kind - 5.10A

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Criminally Insane - 5.10A

Beta coutesy of Catbirdseat:

This may be the only route at The Feathers that is somewhat overhung at the top. Most are vertical, so that makes this climb interesting. The mantle onto the top is the crux. A cordellette is useful for setting up a top rope. Even so there will be lots of friction. It would be best for your rope to rappel after top roping, rather than lowering. We had trouble pulling the rope. It took two people to retreive it.

Satan's Little Helper - 5.9

Location: Northeast Side, North Face of Satan's Pillar.
Comments: A nice continually overhanging 5.9 face climb that requires good strength, but is very staright forward. All of the handholds are large and positive.
Gear: Four quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Satan's Wagan - 5.10B

Location: Northeast Side, Northeast Face of Satan's Pillar.
Comments: The only 4 star route at the Feathers. A really fun face climb on slightly overhanging rock with small holds to work with. A good flagging technique helps at the crux. Use the arete. Highly recommended.
Gear: Five quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Blood Blister - 5.10A

A fun and challenging route. Start at the base and move up to a tricky sloping right hand hold. Once at that hold make a strenuous move to a good jug hold high and to the left (left hand), reposition your feet and make a big move to another jug. The route is 5.9ish after that you can go left, right, or straight up the arete. Going right is easier on your flamed out arms. 6 clips.

(Beta courtesy of Duseks)

Jesus Saves - 5.8

Location: Northeast Side, West Face of Satan's Pillar.
Comments: A really fun 5.8 arete climb that requires good balance. The route is nice and sustained over its length. It features good feet and hand holds spaced far apart and in sometimes awkward positions. This route is much easier if you are tall, like me. It allows you to use the "Giant Step" technique. Rated 3 stars in the book, and I concur with the rating.
Gear: Five quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Notch Route - 5.6

Location: Northeast Side, Inside Face of Satan's Pillar.
Comments: A moderate 5.6 face climb that starts out really easy. The crux is between the second and third bolt, but is straight forward. The holds are blocky and hard to grasp, but the feet are good, and the route is not vertical. A nice easy lead, rated 1 star.
Gear: Three quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Shin Smasher - 5.9

Location: Northeast Side, West Face of Alcove.
Comments: A decent climb up a smooth face, with the crux being a roof pull between the first and second bolt. The roof can be tough for those that find overhanging moves difficult. Decent quality route, rated 1 star.
Alternate Route: I have also climbed a variation to this which is way better, IMO. Climb up the arete of the left side, reaching over to clip your draws. The route will get super difficult on the arete between the second and third bolts. At this point you have to grip the rock with everything you got to slither your body around to the face. Super fun! Now clip the last draw and top out. I'd rate is a 10A or 10B and 3 stars.
Gear: Three quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Altar of Sacrifice - 5.7

Location: Northeast Side, Directly accross from the south side of Satan's Pillar.
Comments: A moderate 5.7 face climb that is vertical, but offers good positive holds and decent feet. Very straight forward once you find the good holds. A nice easy lead, rated 1 star.
Gear: Four quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Sad Crack - 5.6 X

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Desert Shield - 5.9

Location: Northwest Side, closest to the notch.
Comments: A steep, balancy climb on an arete. Handholds are very small in some spots. This route requires good finger crimping technique. Use a side foot brace to prevent barndooring at one location about half way up. This route is quite pumpy. A challenging lead, rated 3 stars. I liked it a lot.
Gear: Six quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

The Uprising - 5.8

Location: Northwest Side, Second route from the notch.
Comments: A really fun route with some unique features. It starts out with no bolts for the first 15 feet on easy face climbing. The crux is 3/4 the way up, and involves a tricky friction move to reach the large positive holds at the fourth bolt. This route is hard for short people, and forces them to do a tricky intermediate friction move. A fun lead, rated 3 stars.
Gear: Four quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Porthole - 5.8

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Shake It Don't Break It - 5.5

Location: Northwest Side, third route from the notch.
Comments: A very straight forward climb with large feet and hands. A nice warmup climb. Not recommended as a beginner lead since the first bolt is 20 feet off the ground.
Gear: Three quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Mandatory Suicide - 5.4

Location: Northwest Side, fourth route from the notch.
Comments: A nice easy climb with large feet and hands. This route is well protected by 4 bolts, and is an excellent first lead.
Gear: Four quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Get the Pever Fever - 5.5

Location: Northwest Side, fourth pillar from the end.
Comments: A well protected route (four bolts) up the face of the pillar. Climbing is easier near the left edge where there are large holds on the corner.
Gear: Four quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

The Becky Route - 5.7

Location: Northwest Side, third pillar from the end.
Comments: A well protected route on a leaning pillar that is very straightforward. I thought it was 5.6 at the most. A good first lead as well.
Gear: Five quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Beta from Catbirdseat:

This route is extremely popular with beginners, who commonly lower through the chains. As a consequence you may very well find the end links worn nearly though, so watch out.

Where the Sidewalk Ends - 5.1

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Ruffled Feathers - 5.7

A very typical short Feathers 5.7 face climb with good holds. It is directly adjacent to Feather in My Cap (5.5). Note that the guidebook shows anchors for both routes on the photo, but states in the text that the two routes share an anchor. There are independent anchors for both routes. Because the anchors are directly next to each other on the same ledge, there is the opportunity to top rope Ruffled Feathers without having to lead it for those who might want to try out a 5.7 in the area before leading one. In fact, Ruffled Feathers can be belayed from the Feather in My Cap anchor.

Gear: Four quickdraws and two lockers to set up the top rope.

Feather in My Cap - 5.5

A very typical short face climb for the Feathers. Directly adjacent to Ruffled Feathers (5.7). Just 3 bolts. Note that the guidebook shows anchors for both routes on the photo, but states in the text that the two routes share an anchor. There are independent anchors for both routes. Because the anchors are directly next to each other on the same ledge, there is the opportunity to top rope Ruffled Feathers without having to lead it for those who might want to try out a 5.7 in the area before leading one. In fact, Ruffled Feathers can be belayed from the Feather in My Cap anchor.

Gear: Three quickdraws and two lockers to set up the top rope.

Photo Opportunity - 5.10a

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The Mirror - 5.8

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So Funny I forgot to Laugh - 5.9

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Medicine Man - 5.10A

The entire pillar is overhangin until the last clip. Move up on juggy but reachy ledge style holds using the arete for right feet and hands if necessary. Continue up making powerfull moves to each consecutive holds until you get past the 4th clip at which point the rock turns to unstable, manky, chossy, micro-holds to the finish.

(Beta courtesy of Duseks)

Fraggled Pickle - 5.10A

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Don Coyote - 5.8 or 5.9

Location: Southeast Side, next to the notch.
Comments: One of the best routes at the Feathers. The route is slightly overhanging and quite pumpy. Challenging feet placements in several spots. Handholds are large, and are positive in slope. Quite stiff for a 5.8, many climbers refer to it as a 9. A fun and challenging lead, 3 stars.
Gear: Five quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Old Crack - 5.7

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Dance of the Shaman - 5.10B

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Hardening of the Arteries - 5.10C

A strenuous and fun climb, the hardest route at the feathers. Start on the left climbing up the right side of a broken crack that seperates this pillar from the next. Then traverse right to the first and second clips (overhanging at this point ~95 degrees). You're now climbing up the right side of pillar, reach left for the third clip then begin traversing back towards the middle. Clip the 4th bolt and pull on your dead arms to the finish.

(Beta courtesy of Duseks)

Ring Pin Crack - 5.6

Beta courtesy of Catbirdseat:

Crack get's wide near the top. Bring a #4 friend to protect the last few moves. Go left to the anchor for the adjacent sport route.

Windwalker - 5.10A

Location: Southeast Side, fifth pillar from the notch, next to the crack.
Comments: A really nice route on a steep, slightly overhanging face. Very pumpy and sustained, but with good handholds. You can't use the crack or the fourth pillar for help. Nice climb.
Gear: Four quickdraws, and 2 lockers to set up a toprope.

Nightbird - 5.10A

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Wish I were Skiing at 49 Degrees North - 5.10B

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Me Too - 5.9

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Updrafts to Heaven - 5.5

This climb is at the very SE End of the SE side of the feathers. There is a about 3 foot wide chimney that goes all the way through the wall. The first of four bolts is about 15 feet up and about 12 feet into the chimney. One can climb the outer edge of the chimney up about 6 to 8 feet and then traverse in or just go directly into the chimney and then go up. Regular chimney technique or climbing the alternate walls work equally well all the way to the top. A very fun climb and different from the other Vantage climbs. Might offer a shady relief on a hot day!

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