Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.36680°N / 121.13631°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.4 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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5.4 |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Grade:
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I |
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Approach
Follow the directions on the main page to get to Koala Rock. Looking at Koala Rock from the hairpin turn on Burma Road, the route starts on the roadside of the crag on the left behind a large tree. You are looking for a large, low angle slab with two bolts visible about 20-30 feet off the ground. Note that this is a fairly popular route - the only one that gets crowded in the Marsupials!Route Description
The route reaches the summit of Koala Rock in three pitches. Both the Round River (5.4) and the Round River Direct variation (5.8) are described here. The two differ in only the topmost (third) pitch. The first two pitches are mostly bolted (with some runout on very easy ground). The third pitch is not bolted in the case of the (original) Round River route but the 5.8 Direct variation is bolted as well.Pitch 1: 5.4. Move up the low angled slab with a nice selection of knobs and dissolution pockets to a doubly bolted belay ledge. The first bolts on the route are somewhat high off the ground (20-30 feet) but the rest of the route is bolted nicely. The starting move off the ground can be a bit akward for shorter people.
Pitch 2: 5.3. Continue up another slab past two (?) bolts. The top portion of the pitch (c. 40 feet) is not bolted but there's ample opportunity to slot a few mid-sized nuts (not necessary as the climbing follows a "pocket ladder" up a low angled slab - easy). The pitch ends on a spacious ledge with double belay bolts.
Pitch 3: 5.4. Climb up and left from the ledge. Follow a ramp system leftwards and then cut back right. Climb up to another spacious ledge with double bolts just below the summit. This pitch is not bolted.
Pitch 3 Direct Variation: 5.8. From the spacious ledge atop pitch two, you will see a line of nicely spaced bolts going directly above the ledge (through what looks like a short chimney). The line quickly brings you to the above-mentioned spacious belay ledge atop pitch 3.
Scramble (unexposed) from the belay ledge to the summit about 20 feet above.
Descent: Looking in the direction of The Wombat (the backside of Koala Rock, opposite to the side you just came up), you will see a "V" notch. Directly to the right of the notch and slightly above you will see a doubly bolted chain anchor. You will need to scramble down the right hand side slab (as you're looking in the direction of the rap anchors) and onto the large dirt terrace about 30 feet below. Walk across the terrace and scramble up onto the large rock where the rap anchors are located. One single rope rappel brings you down to ground level on the "backside" of the Koala Rock near The Wombat.
Essential Gear
If doing the (original) Round River route, a small set of QD's (say 6) and a light trad rack for the third pitch (a few mid- to large-sized nuts).If doing the Round River Direct variation, you just need QD's as the entire route is bolted.