North Ridge via Hayden Glacier

Approach

From the Pole Creek Trailhead head up the Pole Creek Trail for 1.4 mi. to its junction with the Green Lakes Trail. Continue straight and follow this trail for about 0.6 mi. to the junction with the Chambers Lakes trail at Soap Creek. Be careful crossing the creek as the rocks can be slippery. After crossing the stream continue straight following the signs for Chambers Lakes (the left fork continues on to Green Lakes) for about 1.8 mi to the climbers trail. This heads up to the right just past a small flat open area where the main trail turns to the south. This is about 1/3 mile before reaching Squaw Creek. Note: The mountain will not be seen until well up the climbers trail.

Route Description

Continue up the climbers trail until you get out of the trees. You will be on a ridge above Squaw Creek. At this point there are several "trails". Angle over toward the creek for the quickest and easiest route to to the toe of Hayden Glacier. Other trails go over the many many mounds of glacial moraine. Once on the glacier and above the moraine angle right over to the ridge up the middle right of the glacier. Follow the ridge almost due west up the glacier to the base of Prouty Point. This keeps you away from the rock fall off the East Face and the larger crevasses to the south.

From Prouty Point angle left to the saddle. From the saddle stay west of the ridge as the drop off to the east is severe. Head up and south through ash and cinders. Be careful of dislodging loose rock. There may be some steep snowfields to traverse, keep your ice axe handy as a slip could send you quite a ways down. Route finding is fairly easy. The last section is a short class three with some exposure. This is a fairly easy snow, scree and rocky walk. The summit area is fairly small, so hope there are no other large groups at the summit the same time you are.
 

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice axes were used for the glacier portion. No other equipment was necessary. Harnesses and rope may be needed later in the season as crevasses open up. Make sure you have plenty of water. Squaw creek is a good water source, but once on the glacier there are no other water sources and this can be a hot climb late in the season. Many people do this route solo.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.