Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.88860°N / 10.83840°E
Additional Information Elevation: 11430 ft / 3484 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Member Profile Photo

I hold this page in memory of Rahel Maria Liu who died in the mountains which she adored. She had an important part in what SP is today. Family and friends describe her as a wonderful and friendly person and she was a great climber with a big love to the mountains. This page shall be continued in her sense. Thanks for your great work, Rahel! You´ll never be forgotten!




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The Petersenspitze is an interesting little mountain because of its northface. In combination with the northwestface of the Hinterer Brochkogel and the Taschachwand-northface it is part of the so called "Pitztaler Eisexpress". But because in summer the northface of the Taschachwand is quite snowless and therefore objectively dangerous, people today normally climb only the northface of the Petersenspitze and the NW-face of the Hinterer Brochkogel and add the nw-ridge to the Wildspitze instead of the Taschachwand. Besides the northface there are different easy ways to the summit (from SE, W-ridge, from the N) and also the demanding NW-flank (60°, II). Many people go there.

For the Routes compare the section Routes-Overview below.

Getting There

1. To the Petersenspitze:
  • a. You can come from the Taschachhaus (2433 m).

  • b. You can come from the Vernagthütte/Würzburger Haus (2766 m).

2. To the Taschachhaus:
  • You reach the Taschachhaus: from the Taschachalm or from Mittelberg (1616m) in 2-2,5 h on a road (at the beginning). It is a marked way all the time, which you have to follow straight on. You can see the Taschachhaus. The long way on the road is quite even until you reach the station of the material cable car. You can also go by mountainbike to this place and leave your mountain bike here. From this point, you have to continue on a smaller hiking way which goes steeper up behind the bridge. Follow this way over the hangs till you reach the hut.

  • You reach Mittelberg by bus or car on the road through the Pitztal from Imst (train station) via Wenns, St. Leonhard and Plangeross.

  • You reach Imst by train or car on the A12 from Innsbruck (airport) in the E or mostly on the road E60 from Bludenz in the W.


3. To the Vernagthütte/Würzburger Haus (2766 m):
  • You reach the hut from Vent to the hut: in 3,5 to 4 h. You have to follow the marked hiking way no. 920. You only have to follow the valley all the time.

  • You reach Vent on the road through the Ötztal from Ötztal (trainstation) via Ötz, Sölden and Zwieselstein. In Zwieselstein, you have to turn right to the Venter Tal.

  • You reach Ötztal by train (station: Ötztal Bahnhof) or car on the A12 from Innsbruck (E) or from Bludenz (W) on the E60 and A12 via Landeck. Turn off at Ötztal.


When To Climb

  • Summer (june-september)

  • Infos

    1. GENERAL INFOS:
    2. WEATHER

    Map

  • Alpenvereinskarte
    • 1:25000 no. 30/6: Ötztaler Alpen. Wildspitze
      (to order at DAV Service)


    Book

  • Walter Klier, Ötztaler Alpen. Alpenvereinsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1995.
    ISBN 3-7633-1123-8

  • Accomodation

    1. Taschachhaus (2433 m)

    The Taschachhaus is situated on the Pitztaler Urkund, on a green plateau above the tongues of the Taschach- and the Sexegertenglacier.

      according to Klier:
      - 125 beds
      - winter room with 16 beds in the old hut (open)
      - serviced from end of june to september
      - phone: ++43(0)5413/8239 (in the valley: ++43(0)5413/8205 or 8220)
      - internet: DAV or Taschachhaus

    2. Vernagthütte/Würzburger Haus (2766 m)

    The Vernagthütte is situated in the end of the Rofenvalley on the N-side of the Guslarglacier.
      according to Klier:
      - 174 beds
      - winter room with 20 beds (open), in an own hut near the main hut (30 m)
      - serviced from the beginning of march until the middle of may, at Whitsun, from the end of june until the end of september
      - phone (valley): ++43(0)5254/8128
      - internet: Vernagthütte

    Routes-Overview

    1. From the SE
    • from Vernagthütte


    2. W-ridge
    • long ice tour with ridge traverse. 4-5 h from Taschachhaus


    3. Taschachhochjoch-NW-flank ("NBV-Jugendführe")
    • ice till 60°, rock II, face: 550 m , 3-4 h


    4. From the N via Taschachhochjoch
    • interesting ice tour on the glacier (crevasses!), also as descent. 4 h from Taschachhaus


    5. Northface
    • ice 45°-50°, face: 1 h, 150 hm


    According to Klier

    Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

    Viewing: 1-2 of 2
    dmiki

    dmiki - Mar 27, 2010 5:26 am - Voted 10/10

    Ötztaler Eisexpress

    I think this is rather called 'Pitztaler Eisexpress'.

    schmid_th

    schmid_th - Mar 29, 2010 5:49 am - Hasn't voted

    Re: Ötztaler Eisexpress

    You are correct - I change it immediately! Thanks for your support! Cheers Thomas

    Viewing: 1-2 of 2


    Children

    Children

    Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.

    Parents 

    Parents

    Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

    WeisskammMountains & Rocks