Kleine Fermeda

Overview

There are two Fermeda peaks, the larger one is the Grosse Fermeda the smaller is the Kleine Fermeda (2800 m). Both peaks are part of the famous and very beautiful Puez – Geisler (Odle) Group in the northern part of the Dolomites. The Kleine Fermeda is the most westerly peak in the Geisler (Odle) Group. The Kleine Fermeda is divided by the westliche Fermeda Scharte from the Grosse Fermeda, but seen from the south, both peaks seem to be one mountain. The south and north sides of the Kleine Fermeda offer steep walls, but the rock quality of the north side is bad. So the south sides and the ridges are the common ways to climb the Kleine Fermeda.



The West Ridge and the Southwest Couloirs of the Kleine Fermeda are included in "Dolomiten Die 100 Schoensten Touren - Band 2 Westlicher Teil" (Dolomites the 100 Finest Routes - Volume 2 Western Part) by Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin with Gaston Rebuffat.

The Kleine Fermeda was first climbed by J. Santner on 3 October 1884 via the West Ridge. It was one of several peaks in this area that had a first ascent made solo, which at the time was considered "ground breaking".

Getting There

Approaches start in Val Gardena

Many parties will go to the Fermeda Hütte or the nearby Rifugio Firenze in Cisles, which can be reached from the Col Raiser (chair-lift from St. Christina). From the huts follow the path to the Mittags-Scharte / Sass Rigais (marked) until you can reach the base of the Grosse/Gran Fermeda easily. From there it's a short walk to the beginning of the different routes.





An excellent approach for doing the climbs in one day is to take the Furnes - Seceda lift from St. Ulrich. See the Seceda Website for excellent links and a great panorama map of the area.

Routes Overview

The most popular routes are:

West Ridge UIAA II

Southwest Gully / Südwestrinne UIAA III

South Face UIAA III-IV (Direct Start is UIAA VI)

Southeast Ridge UIAA III-IV (Direct Start is UIAA VI)

E-face UIAA III-IV

Camping

From the south
Kleine Fermeda far left.

It's curious, but there are only a few camping places at this part of the Dolomites. Three at Cortina d'Ampezzo, one at Corvara, one at Canazei (south of Passo Pordoi). Those are very (!) expensive and very crowded. There are many hotels at the whole region.

There are several huts in the area, a good possibility are the Fermeda Hütte or the nearby Regensburger, easiely reachable from the chair lift to Col Raiser.

Mountain Conditions

Val Gardena Weather

Guidebooks

AV Führer "Dolomiten - Geisler- und Steviagruppe", Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München, ISBN 3-7633-1304-4

Klettersteigatlas (via ferratas), Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München, ISBN 3-7633-8087-6

From the southeast. Kleine Fermeda far left.
Photo by viktor stuffer

In Memory of Stefan "kletterwebbi" Weber

This page was originated by Stefan.

Stefan Weber, the member we all used to know from his climbing pseudonym kletterwebbi, died on May 28th 2004 in southern France.

Stefan joined SP early on in 2002 and contributed a number of excellent pages and routes to this site. He was an accomplished climber excelling in difficult alpine and technical routes. The Dolomites, especially the area around Gröden / Val Gardena were special to him, as it was his old ancestral home.

kletterwebbi was always willing to share his knowledge and experience with other climbers, mainly here on SP, but also on other sites. He contributed his IT expertise as webmaster of his local section of the German Alpine Club, where he also engaged in leading trips for fellow members. Besides his climbing and mountaineering activities he was a musician, a composer of contemporary music. Stefan will be greatly missed by us all.

Stephan's SP page

Images

View Kleine Fermeda Image Gallery - 4 Images