Aiguille Pierre André

Overview

Aiguille Pierre Andrè 2897 m

Aiguille Pierre Andrè is a stunning pyramidal peak belonging to the Chambeyron range, Ubaye valley. Due to the harmonious shape and the beauty of the rock, it is considered as the Aiguille Dibona of the Ubaye. Although not so superb and flashy, it's a beautiful slender spire, with a South-South-East wall built with an excellent quartzite, showing a strong orange color. A beautiful needle in a wild context with great equipped climbs, especially in its South-East face.

Four routes are located on the spire, amongst those the most frequently climbed is Marmottes Givrées, a magnificent steady route on extra quality orange quartzite leading directly on the summit. On Aiguille Pierre Andrè the quartzite is very rich in handholds and this fact make it possible to climb on extremely steep walls without exceeding the grades 6a+/6b (5.12b). 

 The Normal route rises along the shortest West wall. There are no weak sides and to reach the summit needs to climb, so every route, even the Normal one, involves the use of climbing gear.

Aiguille Pierre André and Aiguille Large de Mary annotated pano

Getting There

The starting point to climb on Aiguille Pierre Andrè is the hamlet of Maljasset. It can be reached:

From Durance Valley: Gap or Sisteron - Barcelonette - St-Paul/Ubaye - Maljasset
From Durance Valley: Embrun or Briançon - Vars pass - St-Paul/Ubaye - Maljasset
From Italy: Colle della Maddalena - St-Paul/Ubaye - Maljasset

From the hamlet of Maljasset take the itinerary to Col Mary, starting with a dirty road through the larches, then becoming a steeper path. At the second grassy terrace there is a junction where you must leave the main trail to Col de Mary and take the right branch (signpost "11ème BCA"), a narrow path crossing a stream, then rising with several hairpins and leading below Pierre Andrè South face (2 hours from Maljasset).

Main routes

The main routes to climb the summit:

- Normal Route (West Face) 3b, 3 pitches, route equipped with some rings along the pitches and anchors at the belays
- Short climb developing on the West wall of the spire. It is frequented above all to descent from the top of the spire.

- Marmottes Givrées on Summitpost TD, French 6a+ max, UIAA VI+, YDS 5.10a, 200 m (6 pitches), route equipped with bolts
- A beautiful and athletic climb not to be missed, perhaps the finest on the spire. It's more modern, more direct than the SSE, a little better equipped (spaced bolts in the easy) and more difficult. Some climbers have seen marmots work food inside their backpacks....

- La SSE (Honorat-Cerciello) UIAA V+, 180 m (7 pitches)
- Classic route, the start is a few meters to the right of Marmottes Givrées

- Vieux boucs, new look French 6b max, 200 m (7 pitches) - Another beautiful climbing route with a length more difficult than the rest (6b), which can be bypassed by a simpler section, making the route more homogeneous and accessible.

Descent route

 

 

 

 

 

 

From the summit head to West to find the first fixed anchor. Abseil down with 3 abseils (25m + 20m + 15m)

Essential gear

There are no hiking trails that climb to the summit, so every route, even the Normal route, involves the use of climbing gear.

Red Tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars in Maljasset village are not allowed. Leave them in the parking before entering the village.

Accomodation

There's an equipped camping open in summer in Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye. Otherwise in Maljasset you can stay in:

 

- Chalet de Maljasset

Altitude: 1905 m
Commune: St-Paul/Ubaye
IGN maps: 3538 et 3637 OT
Access: D25 road, access by car
Owner: Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne - FFCAM
Guardian: Federica Perino Fontana
Beds: 60
Phone: 04 92 31 55 42 / 07 68 86 01 11
Open: from February 1st to May 10th - from June 10th to November 3rd - from December 26th to January 3rd

- Gite d’etape “La Cure”
- Maison d’hotes “La Posada” in Pont d’Estreche

When to climb

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Best season goes from middle June to September.

Meteo

Meteo France Saint Paul sur Ubaye

Guidebooks and maps

 

"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel CAF

"Alpes du Sud Provence" by Hervè Galley

 

Map IGN TOP 25 3538 ET, Aiguilles de Chambeyron

External Links

Pierre André details on camptocamp