Overview
The Ortler is the highest peak of the Italian province of Alto Adige. Until 1919 this province has belonged to Austria (Südtirol - South Tyrol) and the Ortler has been the highest peak of the Austrian-Hungarian double monarchy (it is some 100 m higher than the Großglockner).
By order of Erzherzog Johann, the Ortler was first climbed by the chamois hunter Joseph Pichler from Trafoi in 1804.
In the 1860s, Julius von Payer (1841 - 1915), an Austrian officer, did important explorations in the Ortler Alps. The important hut for the normal route carries his name.
It is very often ascended. The normal route is a moderate rock climb and glacier trip. In the rocky section, there is a steep part secured by a chain and one shorter part up to grade II-III (pitons, most people use a rope). Then, there is one steep snow slope (Bärenloch) which can be tricky in icy conditions late in the season (September). The rest is a relatively easy glacier walk up to the summit.
Getting There
The town of Sulden (Italian Solda) is situated at the foot of the mountain.
By car:
Access from north: Inn valley, Landeck, Reschenpaß, Prad am Stilfersjoch, Gomagoi, Sulden
Access from east: Vischgau
By train
The train stations
Landeck (Austria) approx. 90 km distance
Meran (Italia) approx. 60 km distance
From there bus connection to Sulden
More on getting there: Sulden-Info.com
Tourism association
Red Tape
No permits or summit fees.
When To Climb
July to September. Some parts of the glacier (Bärenloch) get very icy and more difficult in the late season.
Camping
In the village of Sulden, there are lots of hotels and pensions. There is probably also a campsite. During the ascent which usually takes two days, people sleep in one of the several huts around the mountain. On the normal route the Payer Hut (3029 m) is the most important.
Rifugio Julius Payer
Location Punta di Tabaretta
Town Stelvio
Province Bolzano/Bozen
Property of CAI Milano, Via S. Pellico 6, 20121 Milano, tel. 02/86463516 - 02/8056971(+fax), E-mail cai.milano@tiscalinet.it
Telephone 0473/613010
Operator 0473/666372
Beds 80
Winter room 12
Opening Dates summer
Last restored 1994
Notes very crowded in august, scarcity of water, no hot showers
Last modified 03/09/00
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