Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 44.95800°N / 6.26290°E
Additional Information Elevation: 11269 ft / 3435 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview


Geographical classification: Western Alps > High Dauphiné Alps > Soreiller group


Pic Gény is one of the two main summits of the south branch in Soreiller group, in high Dauphiné Alps. The summit is made of gneiss, has a granite basis but not all the faces and ridges are the same quality. The traverse of the mountain from East ridge to Soreiller side is a classic climb.

Getting There


by car (highly recommended)

Grenoble >> Bourg d'Oisans >> Saint Christophe >> Les Etages >> Soreiller or La bérarde

For those coming from oversea :
Fly to Lyon international airport. Car (recommended) or train to Grenoble, followed by bus to Bourg d'Oisans and smaller bus up the narrow road to Saint Christophe en Oisans and La Bérarde (3 per day in July/Aug Grenoble to La Bérarde) . Car highly recommended !

Red Tape


No Red Tape except Ecrins National Park rules (no dog, no camping, only bivouak allowed, no fire, no MTB, no destruction of wilderness)
Refer to Ecrins National park rules.

Routes overview


Routes overview

Normal descent route: PD
west flank of southern ridge using route to Brèche du Rouget.
Bad gneiss rock.
Soreiller hut to summit 2h
Summit to Soreiller hur 1h30

Normal ascent route : PD+
East ridge.
Solid rock.
La Bérarde to begining of the ridge = ascent to Glacier du Plaret : 3h
east ridge ascent to summit : 3h

Northern ridge route: PD
Unstable rocks. Not recommended.
Soreiller hut to Plaret N pass: 1h30, PD
La Bérarde to to Plaret N pass: 4h30, F
Plaret pass to summit 1h

West face: D
rock OK
From Soreiller hut to the face 1h
west face ascent 3h

SE spur and E ridge: D+
Good rock
La Bérarde to Glacier d'Arena and SE spur: 4h
Eperon 300Hm and E ridge 150Hm: 6h

When To Climb


Summer period is the prefered period for mountaineering.
Rock climbing is possible early or late (october) in the season, depending of the weather.

Camping


CAMPING LES FETOULES
38520 ST-CHRISTOPHE-EN-OISANS
Tél : 04 76 80 23 99
Fax : 04 76 95 47 97
Email : rafting.veneon@wanadoo.fr
Site internet: www.rafting-veneon.com


CAMPING MUNICIPAL DE LA BERARDE
La Bérarde 38520 ST-CHRISTOPHE-EN-OISANS
Tél : 04 76 79 20 45
Fax : 04 7679 06 97
Email :
Site internet: www.berarde.com

Mountain Conditions


Briançon meteo forecast 7 days
Bourg d'Oisans meteo forecast 7 days
Grenoble meteo forecast 7 days

Some links


Pic Gény pictures

Pic Gény pictures by Yannick.Michelat

Pic Gény geology

Huts


Soreiller hut STD 2720 m

Soreillerhut route on Oisans.com


Châtelleret hut CAF 2232 m
Access : Saint Christophe en Oisans >>La Bérarde >> Chatelleret valley.
Activities : mountaineering - Rock climbing- Hiking- Ski mountaineering
- Mountaineering routes and summits : Pic nord des Cavales- Gandolière- Râteau- Pic Geny- Têtes N et S du Replat
- High routes : To la Selle hut, l’Alpe de Villar d'Arène, La Grave via Brêche de la Meije
- Ski routes: Brêche de la Meije - col de la Casse Déserte - col du Replat

The hut is guarded some months and weekends:
Spring: usually in April and begining of May
Summer: middle of June to Middle of September
Reservation is mandatory, please contact Gérard Turc:
adress: 5 chemin de la Buissonière - 38860 Les Deux Alpes
phone number : 04.76.80.03.86
Hut phone number: 04.76.79.08.27

Beds in summer: 70 +20 beds under tent
In winter : 62
The hut belongs to CAF ISERE : 32 avenue Félix Viallet 38000 GRENOBLE
Tél : 04.76.87.03.73
Fax : 04.76.85.26.77

Chatelleret hut route on Oisans.com


Maps and books


IGN Map: 3436 ET

Pic Geny routes are described on this useful reference book:
Guide du Haut Dauphiné, tome 1 by GHM and François Labande, éditions de l'Envol
ISBN 2 909 907 155