The eastern margin of Lepontine Alps just before the Passo dello Spluga (Splügenpass),
this is the highest and one of the most climbed summits of the Valle Spluga

It is the main mountain of a long and big ridge that goes to south till Como lake..
Its summit is a long narrow horizontal ridge : excellent panoramic point and easy to climb, that's why in all seasons people want to get it.

Routes overview

rope and iceaxe useful in early season

starting from Montespluga :

South ridge very fine (PD-AD) - from bocchetta dello Zoccone along the ridge, avoiding on the west side the difficult passages

South east side forgotten route (PD) - along the Val Loga to get a channel that allows to reach the saddle under the upper glacier and then along the SE wall, steep but easy

starting from Passo Spluga :

East ridge the normal route (F) - amusing, various and frequented - the best way I think - some tracks in the lower part

starting from Splügen Ski area

North east side the normal ski-route (F) - amusing, various ecc. ecc. it avoids the steep slopes of the first part of the East ridge on the northern side and gets the ridge after the "Tamborello" (first ridge elevation) through a channel

North edge (ridge) fine but forgotten route (F-PD) - from Alpe Tambò to Areua Pass and, using the western side of the ridge, to the summit

North western side easy but tiring (F)

Western ridge fine in the upper part, easy and tiring in the low part (F sup)

West side as for the previous, easy but tiring (F)

approaching Pizzo Tambò from Val Curciusa (western border of the big ridge) can be fine but requires a lot of walking and parhaps a bivouac in an almost desert area

ski mountaneering info

Getting There

starting from Milano (Italy) by car :

route 36 to Colico, than Chiavenna, Campodolcino, Madesimo, Montespluga and Splügen Pass (2113m)

autoroute Milano-Como-Lugano-Bellinzona-S.Bernardino (tunnel)-Splügen and Splügen Pass (2113m)

starting from Chur (CH)

autoroute of S.Bernardino till Splügen then, on the left to Spluga pass

The usual starting points are Montespluga, Splügen Pass

views ...

When To Climb

almost all year long (dicember and january not always are good)
wonderful ski-mountaneering in late winter and spring
amusing easy climbs in summer

beware of bad weather, storms and lightnings can be dangerous here (this mountain is not so low).

Camping

no need,
this summit can be climbed in one day trip from the north-western area of Lombardia (I) or Canton Ticino (CH).
Some little hotel in Montespluga allows early morning starts for ski-mountanering

Red Tape

Switzerland is out of Schengen, you need identity document

Images



[ View Gallery - 42 More Images ]