Dovski Kriz

In Slovenian language č, š and ž are pronounced like ch, sh, and zh.

Overview

From the east

Above Amfiteater

The name is pronounced Dovshki Krizh. It means: The Cross of Dovje (=village name).

Dovški Križ is a special mountain. It is one of the highest in Martuljek group, but from nowhere it is distinctive, even not seen as a big mountain. On the other hand it offer so many different mountaineering possibilities, that it is very popular although no marked path ascends it (or may be just because of that). As in whole Martuljek natural park the nature phenomena on Dovški Križ are also extraordinary. Wild ridges, snow rests in couloirs, the longest and softest scree, beautiful corners with lonely larches, waterfalls and more...

From north, Martuljek group looks like a broad, slightly curved crest of wild, rugged peaks. This range starts on NE with Vrtaški vrh, 1898 m, continues towards the W-SW over Sleme, 2077 m and reaches the sharp Kukova špica, 2427 m, with which a beautiful half circle of high mountains starts. Škrnatarica, 2448 m, Dovški Križ, 2542 m, Visoki Oltar, 2621 m and from this one in a NW direction Velika Ponca, 2602 m, Mala Ponca, 2502 m, Špik, 2472 m, Frdamane Police, 2284 m, Rigljica, 2074 m and Rušica, 1911 m. In front of this range the wide Široka peč (2497 m) stands, being connected with the main crest just on Dovški Križ. From the main crest many ridges go towards SE - in the Vrata valley. The Kopice ridge goes from Dovški Križ, that is why geographically the mountain has a shape of the cross (križ=cross).

Between Dovški Križ, Škrnatarica and Široka pec the most lonesome basin in Julian Alps lies. Climbers call it Amfiteater. When you're in it, no voice reaches you, although the main Sava valley is just a few miles away. From NW a very interesting couloir reaches the main crest from Martuljek scree. It is called Jugova grapa, and has it's name by dr. Klement Jug, one of pioneers of Slovenian climbing, who died in 1924 in Triglav north face, when he soloed a route, which now also carries his name. Towards the south and east summit rocks reach long scree and grassy slopes, falling deep in Vrata valley. Over these slopes the mountain is most easily reached.

Dovški Križ is not a mountain for hard climbs. It is the Eldorado for scramblers and for mountaineers who enjoy in easy climbing. But by no means it is a mountain for non-experienced. Because of some tricky passages it is also not usual to approach high on the mountain with skis. Still, in good spring conditions Jug's couloir is appropriate for best skiers (it's a serious alpinistic ski tour).

Summit Views

Triglav and its huge North Face

The most beautiful part of panorama from Dovški Križ is towards Triglav. On the other part of Vrata valley its huge north wall rises, stretching further towards the north walls of Begunjski vrh and Cmir. Great is also the view towards the central part of Martuljek group. There the wildest peaks are packed on a small territory. Just towards the N and NW the ridge towards the summit of Široka peč is very picturesque. Far on the distance we can view towards the north (Hohe Tauern, Gaiultal Alps, Nockberge, Niedere Tauern) and east (Karavanke, Kamnik and Savinja Alps).

Široka peč

Martuljek group

Blue skies

Getting There

Martuljek group - main summits, access roads and marked paths.

The main valley to start thinking of Dovški Križ Ascent is Sava valley. From Ljubljana you travel by highway towards the NW, through Jesenice and further to Mojstrana and Martuljek. In this valley also bus operates.

Dovški Križ can be climbed from the south and north. The southern approach starts in the famous Vrata valley, going from Mojstrana village to the foothills of Triglav. The trailhead starts on Poldov rovt (meadow), some 2 km before Aljažev dom (hut). Less than 2 hours of walk from Mojstrana.

From north the trailhead is in the main Sava valley, in Martuljek.

Maps:

• Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30.000
• Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50.000.

Mentioning A Few Routes

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Summer Routes No route is marked, but some of them are just easy climbs: 1. Southern approach. From Vrata (Poldov rovt, 900 m) to bivouac II (2118 m) and to the summit. Easy climb, UIAA I. 4-5 hours. 2. Northern approach (Jug's Couloir). From Martuljek (750 m) to bivouac III (1340 m), to 3 macesni (3 larches, 1810 m) and through Jug's couloir to the summit. Below ferratta and marked to the bivouac, from there on not marked, scramble, snow couloir (to 50 degrees), the summit rocks are UIAA I. 5 hours. 3. NE ridge. An interesting, but longer approach is over the neighbouring summit of Škrnatarica. From Vrata valley (Črlovec scree field) you climb the saddle between Kukova špica and Škrnatarica, through the East couloir climb Škrnatarica (50 degrees, UIAA II) and from there proceed by the main ridge to Dovški Križ (UIAA I.-II.). Cca 7 hours. By far the best combination is going up by #2 and descend by #1. This is one of the most rewarding mountaineering tours in Martuljek (for experienced mountaineers). See the detailed description of both routes.

One harder climb

Borut posted a fine picture (author: Tadej Golob) of the NW wall, in which there is a route called Megakamin, IV+, 150 m, Golob, Kantušer, 2007.

Alpinistic Ski Tour

1. Jug's Couloir. Skiing is rated: IV-, sections are S4+, 500 m (only the couloir part, below is an ordinary, but steep ski tour).

Red Tape

Martuljek region is the natural park.

When To Climb

The best months are in summer and autumn. In spring (if there is enough snow) you can do a hard skiing tour from just below the summit. In winter to climb Dovški Križ you need a complete winter climbing equipment, but the ascent is possible.

Weather: see here.

Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).

Camping

Bivouac II

In Sava valley there are many huts and hotels. In Kranjska Gora, for example hotels: Lek, Larix, Kompas and many family hotels. A few general facts for tourists and about camping you can find here.

Bivouacs II (6 beds) and III (8 beds) are maintained by Mountaineering Club Jesenice. Address: Cesta železarjev 1, 4270 Jesenice; tel.: (04) 586-60-70.