Zumsteinspitze

Zumsteinspitze is the 5th highest mountain in the Alps and part of the Monte Rosa Group, the second highest mountain range in the Alps after the Mont Blanc Group. Zumsteinspitze was first climbed on the 1st of August in the year 1820 by Joseph Zumstein and his company. Zumsteinspitze is one of the 4 Monte Rosa summits looming high above the Macugnagna valley and forming the famous Monte Rosa East wall, the biggest and highest rock face in the Alps. Zumsteinspitze is a popular objective for climbers, mainly because of the relative ease of the ascent (the normal route is graded PD) and being one of the 82 mountains (UIAA-list) above the magical 4000 meter barrier in the Alps.

Zumsteinspitze (4563m/ 14.970 ft) is the 5th highest mountain in the Alps (UIAA-list) after Mont Blanc (4810m /15.774 ft), Mont Blanc de Courmajeur (4748m /15.577 ft) , Dufourspitze (4634m /15.203 ft) and Nordend (4606m /15.121 ft). Directly to the NW of Zumsteinspitze is Dufourspitze, the highest mountain in the group. They are separated by the Grenzsattel (also Zumstein Col). Directly to the SE is Signalkuppe / Punta Giordani, with 4554m /14.941 ft the 6th highest mountain in the Alps and separated from Zumsteinspitze by the colle Gnifetti. The western flank of the mountain is heavily glaciated with a gradual slope. The East side however, forms the highest and biggest rock face in the Alps: the near vertical Monte Rosa East wall consisting of 4 summits: Signalkuppe, Zumsteinspitze, Dufourspitze and Nordend.

There are several routes to the summit of Zumsteinspitze. The normal route goes up along the Italian side of the mountain and starts from either the Gnifetti or Mantova Hut. The route follows the Lys glacier up to the Lys Col and further along the western flank of the mountain to its summit. The normal route is technically easy and is for 95% on glaciated terrain. Only the final part to the summit along the SE-ridge offers some light climbing in the first grade (UIAA I). The overall gradation is PD. An alternative to the normal route from the Italian side is the route from the Swiss side of the mountain starting from the Monte Rosa Hut. This route is also graded PD and joins the Italian normal route after the Lys col. Many climbers choose to traverse Zumsteinspitze towards its higher neighbour Dufourspitze via the Grenzsattel. This route is more difficult though: AD, UIAA III.

Zumsteinspitze offers fine views from its summit. Towards the north the mighty Dufourspitze and Nordend are dominating the view. To the east you look down the Monte Rosa East wall towards Macugnagna, which is over 3200 vertical meters lower, down in the valley. Towards the south you can reckognize the Capanna Regina Margherita, sitting atop the Signalkuppe / Punta Giordani. Also Parrotspitze (4436m) and Ludwigshohe (4342m) can be seen clearly. Towards the west Lyskamm (4527m) dominates the view with Matterhorn (4478m) sticking out behind. 

There are several routes up to the summit of Zumsteinspitze. This section gives a short description of the main routes on Zumsteinspitze. All sections provide a link to the route pages on SP (when available). All difficulties are based on regular conditions (experienced mountaineer, good weather, no icy conditions!) as given in the guide. Note that when conditions are sub-optimal the difficulties can increase substantially.

The normal route to the summit of Zumsteinspitze starts from either the Mantova or Gnifetti Hut. The route is sometimes referred to as the Italian normal route on the mountain. The route goes fully over glaciated terrain and is technically easy. The gradation of the normal route is PD. 
The time required for climbing this route is five hours from the Gnifetti hut and 30 to 45 minutes more from the Mantova Hut. Descend is the same way back, but a good alternative is to spend the night in the Capanna Regina Margherita, located onn top of the Punta Gnifetti / Signalkuppe (4554m). The Capanna is about an hour away from the summit of Zumsteinspitze. Although technically easy, watch out for crevasses along the route, especially on the Lys glacier. The Italian normal route is (very) popular, especially in the summer months there are many climbers on this route. Most of them climb (some of) the other 4000meter peaks along the route as well: Pyramide vincent, Balmenhorn, Corno Nero/ Schwarzhorn, Ludwigshohe and Parrotspitze.

If you start your route from the Mantova Hut leave the hut in a northern direction and enter the Garstelet glacier. Cross the glacier to the north and in 30-45 minutes you will pass the Gnifetti Hut. From the Gnifetti Hut enter the Lys glacier and head up towards the north. This is a walk over fully glaciated terrain. Watch out for crevasses since the Lys glacier is filled with them. Most times a path is visible along the glacier; this is a result of the popularity of the route. All routes towards the Monte Rosa 4000m peaks go up here. Eventually you will pass Pyramide Vincent (visible to the right of you) and reach a junction of trails at about 4000m of altitude. If you take a right you go up Pyramide Vincent, if you go straight ahead, you are heading towards Zumsteinspitze and co. In front of you the Balmenhorn is visible (with the shelter and large Maria statue). You can ascend the saddle to the west or the saddle to the east of Balmenhorn. If you do not want to climb Balmenhorn and Corno Nero taking the western saddle is somewhat shorter. With either choice, keep heading up towards the North. Both routes meet again at the Colle de Lys, the saddle between Ludwigshohe and P.4256 at 4248m. From the Lys Col keep heading towards the North/NE and head towards the col between Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe, now right in front of you. At your right you will pass Parrotspitze. After reaching the col take a left and walk up to the SE-ridge of Zumsteinspitze. The first part is on snow/ice, but soon makes place for rock. Climb along the SE-ridge (rock Climbing, mostly Grade I UIAA, up to grade I+) until you reach the summit of Zumsteinspitze.

For more information about this route see the SP Page by member Corvus.

   

A variant from the Italian Normal route is the ascent from the Swiss side of the mountain, starting from the Monte Rosa hut. Although most people choose to ascend Dufourspitze from the Monte Rosa hut, it is a possibility to climb Zumsteinspitze from the Hut as well. This route is graded PD and goes almost fully over glaciated terrain and is (very) long. Starting at 2883 meters at the Monte Rosa Hut, one has to overcome almost 1700 vertical meters. Most of these meters consist of ascending the immense Grenz glacier. This route is often used as descent route coming from the Capanna Regina Margherita.

Leave the Monte rosa Hut in a south-eastern direction and follow the rocky path to point 3109. Enter the Grenz glacier and follow it upstream (towards the SE). The Grenz glacier truly is a maze filled with crevasses. Route finding can be quite difficult. Keep following the flowpath of the glacier (upstream) and you will pass Dufourspitze and Zumsteinspitze to the North of you. Keep heading up towards Parrotspitze until you reach the plateau at 4300 meters. The route now joins the Italian normal route (coming from the Gnifetti/Mantova Hut). Head towards the North/NE and head towards the col between Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe, now right in front of you.  After reaching the col take a left and walk up to the SE-ridge of Zumsteinspitze. The first part is on snow/ice, but soon makes place for rock. Climb along the SE-ridge (rock Climbing, mostly Grade I UIAA, up to grade I+) until you reach the summit of Zumsteinspitze.   

Zumsteinspitze can be climbed from the Capanna Regina Margherita (on top of Signalkuppe / Punta Gnifetti). Climbing Zumsteinspitze from the Capanna requires only one hour of climbing. Descend from the capanna down to the Col separating Signalkuppe from Zumsteinspitze. This will take some 20 minutes.  After reaching the col walk up to the SE-ridge of Zumsteinspitze. The first part is on snow/ice, but soon makes place for rock. Climb along the SE-ridge (rock Climbing, mostly Grade I UIAA, up to grade I+) until you reach the summit of Zumsteinspitze. This last part will take 30-40 minutes. The gradation of this route is PD.

For more information about this route see the SP Page by member MarkHallam. (This route describes the Italian normal route on Dufourspitze. But part of this route is the ascent of Zumsteinspitze from the Margherita Hut.)

There are several ways to get to the different mountain huts from the valley. The different approach routes are described below.

Approach routes from Gressoney/Alagna

Coming from Gressoney (Staffal)
From Gressoney, Staffal, take the cableway to the Indren glacier. The first cableway brings you to the middle station of Alpe Gabiet (there is a bar- restaurant called Rifugio Lys) a few minutes from the Gabiet Lake. The second cableway brings you to direct to Passo Salati, where you can find the new lift to Punta Indren (3250m).
From here you have to walk: you have to cross the glacier, therefore crampons are advised.
From the lift, follow the track that crosses the glacier, and in about 20 minutes you reach the place where the track splits in two, a low and a high track. Follow the  low one until the end of the glacier. Go beyond a rock with fixed ropes (15 meters), than climb up again and and  shortly the Mantova hut is reached.  It takes about an hour from the lift to the hut.
If you choose the high track (you have to consider the season and the snow conditions), climb up slightly. When the snow ends, you go on a mixed path (earth, rocks and snow) and after a few bends you reach an equiped path. The fixed ropes and steps made with wooden trunks make your ascent of this steep section easier. When you reach the top of this path you see on the left, below, the Mantova hut. The duration is about 1 hour.

To reach the Gnifetti Hut from the Mantova Hut you have to cross the Garstelet glacier. This will take up to 30 minutes longer.

Fore information about the cableway to Indren from Gressoney (including prices, timetable) see this link

Coming from Alagna
From Alagna take the cableway system to Passo Salati (it  consists of two sections: the cableway (1st part) to Pianalunga and then the cableway that bring you to the Passo Salati (2nd part). From here it is a 100m walk to the new Punta Indren cableway. Once reached Indren (3250m) you follow the same path as described above. 
Otherwise, from Gabiet, follow the old path 6a to reach the hut on a very safe and well-marked path. The last part of the path is on stony ground.
The way from Gabiet to Mantova hut takes about 4-5 hours. To reach the Gnifetti Hut you have to cross the Garstelet glacier. This will take up to 45 minutes longer.

Fore information about the cableway to Indren from Alagna (including prices, timetable) see this link

Take the Gornergratbahn (Mountain Railway) from Zermatt station to Rotenboden (2819m). From here a marked trail heads ESE following the flowpath of the  Gorner Glacier. The final descent to the glacier involves down-climbing steep slabs using ladders and chains  and finally crossing a small metal bridge to reach the ice at about 2500m. The trail on the glacier is well marked with flags and poles. Roping up is advisable. The glacier (ice!) is covered with a fine layer of grit so crampons are not obligated, but still, I would recommend using them. 

If you plan on climbing Zumsteinspitze from the Swiss side (via Monte Rosa hut or via Klein Matterhorn) Zermatt is the place to start from. Klein Matterhorn is often used as starting point for a multiple day tour ("Spaghetti tour") climbing 10 to 12 4000-meter peaks including Zumsteinspitze. When you plan on climbing the mountain from the Italian side the Mantova or Gnifetti Huts are used as a base. Both huts can be reached from either Alagna or Gressoney. The links below provide a detailed description about how to get to these villages. For more information about getting to the mountain huts from the villages mentioned here, see the section "mountain huts" below. Both the link to the official internet page as well as to the SP-page provide information about getting to the hut.

How to get to Zermatt: Click Here

How to get to Alagna: Click Here

How to get to Gressoney: Click Here

There are several mountain huts surrounding Zumsteinspitze. The Monte Rosa hut is the only Hut located on Swiss terrain. It is possible to climb Zumsteinspitze from the Monte Rosa Hut via the Grenz glacier. However, most people choose to climb Dufourspitze from the Monte Rosa Hut. From the Italian side of the mountain the Gnifetti and Mantova Huts are often used as a base for climbing Zumsteinspitze. The advantage of the Gnifetti Hut is the higher altitude and better location (closer to the mountain). These two huts are mostly used as a base for climbing Zumsteinspitze. The last hut is the famous Capanna Regina Margherita, the highest mountain hut in Europe at 4554 meters, situated on top of Punta Gnifetti / Signalkuppe. Many climbers choose to spend the night here and traverse Zumsteinspitze and Dufourspitze on the next day or descend back down to either the Italian or Swiss side of the mountain. From the Margherita Hut is takes about an hour to get to the summit of Zumsteinspitze. If you plan on spending the night in the Margherita Hut, be sure to have the proper acclimatization.

Clicking on the name of the Hut in the table below directs you to the official internet page. Also the SP-link is given when available.

The best period to climb Zumsteinspitze is in the summer months: July, August, September.

There are several books describing one or more climbing routes on Zumsteinspitze. The ''Hochtouren Westalpen'' by Rother Verlag is a very popular choice. This guidebook includes photos, route descriptions and detailed route maps for many climbs in the Western Alps, including Zumsteinspitze. For me this is the best guidebook at this moment. The ''Viertausender der Alpen'' by Dumler is a true classic. It is a 2014 reprint of one of the truly classic mountain books. The English version is still accessible as ''The high mountains of the Alps''. If you are looking for a smaller format the 4000er tourenfuhrer by Goedeke is a good choice as well. This guidebook has a description on every normal route on a 4000 meter peak in the Alps. If you are planning a ski-touring ascent of Zumsteinspitze the guidebook ''Walliser Alpen'' by Rother Verlag is the guide to go with. Other recent publications like ''the 4000m peaks of the Alps'' and ''Topo Verlag Walliser Alpen'' are shown below.

Summit view with Madonna by MarkHallam

Zumsteinspitze at www.4000er.de Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps

Zumsteinspitze at Camptocamp Description of all major routes on Zumsteinspitze; Partly in English, mostly French

Official Website Zermatt (CH) and Alagna Valsesia (I) 

Photos of all the Monte Rosa peaks: Monte Rosa 4000

Mountain Guides for climbing Zumsteinspitze: Guide Alpina Alagna in Alagna, Alpincenter Zermatt in Zermatt

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