This mountain is composed of three summits, the north summit of Torozo (2.026m), The torozo and the Albujea, although the most characteristic it is that of the Torozo, also called "Espolon de la hora."
It’s a granitic mountain, ideal to practice the rock climbing, with numerous roads of different difficulties.
It belongs to the sierra de Gredos solid oriental, which finishes with the "Puerto del Pico" (1.395m).
The solid of the Torozo dominates predominant the valley of the five Villages. From these, Mombeltran, Santa cruz del valle, San Esteban, Villarejo and Cuevas del valle, we contemplate the great mass of the solid one of the Torozo.
Another de the components of the solid one, the Albujea, is a great next flagstone to the port with a very compact configuration, only broken by some scars left by big removed blocks.
The technique employee mainly to climb on the refined badges of this wall it is the adherence.
This area is suitable to practice the escalade in rock. together with the Galayos these mountains constitute a relating one for the climbers, being of those but well-known in the Iberian Peninsula.

The half height is of: 200 meters

The maximum height is of: 380 meters

Number of Routes: 77

Routes until V: 15%

Routes of V+ at 6c+: 70%

Routes of 7a at 7c+: 15%

Routes of eighth: 0%

Better Time: Spring and autumn

Getting There

To access to this mountain we will have to arrive until the Puerto del Pico, located in the km 55 of the national highway 502 in Avila.

From Madrid:

By car:
By the N-V until Talavera de la Reina we take the deviation for Arenas de San Pedro’s c-502 direction until arriving to Ramacastañas, where we continue to the right until arriving to the Puerto del Pico crossing the Barranco de las 5 villas.

By bus:
Company La Sepulvedana. daily buses (13,67 € go and turn). from the south station of buses

08:30

10:00

13:00

16:00

17:00

18:00

19:30

20:30

This bus leaves us in Arenas de San Pedro where taken another that takes us to Cuevas del Valle. ( price note 1 € single going. )

11:00

15:00

15:15

19:15

21:45

Schedules of friday. For other days to consult in 91-5304800 or in www.lasepulvedana.es.
Once in Cuevas del Valle we will go up walking for the roman roadway or taken a taxi until the Puerto del Pico.

From Avila:

By car:
For C-502 o'clock directly until the Puerto del Pico.

By bus:
Company Muñoz travel. from the bus station of Avila. We descend in Puerto del Pico.

15:00 daily

17:30 friday (single from October to June)

Red Tape

No one yet, only it is forbidden the one camped free. Loose animals cannot be taken because they scare to the local endemic fauna "Capra Hispanica victoriae." Mainly not to LEAVE GARBAGE, to maintain clean the mountain.

When To Climb

The best time in the year to climb this mountain is the one understood between the months of May and October, although this I finish September it is the suitable one for the escalade due to the absence of rains and to the soft temperatures.

Gradient of temperatures:

	Stockings Temperatures	Extreme Temperatures
Winter	5ºC ~ 8ºC	36ºC ~ 44ºC
Summer	22ºC ~ 25ºC	-6ºC ~ -8ºC

Camping

Camping site of Prados Abiertos. Second category. Open the whole year. Located in the C-502, km. 72. Tf: 920386061

Infrastructure
parceled camping site offers you seem them for season,
it accepts caravans,
each parcel is of 60/100 m2
apartaments: 7
bungalows: 4
locations: 105
showers of it dilutes cold: 17
showers of it dilutes hot: 17
washbasins of it dilutes cold: 37
washbasins of it dilutes hot: 10
laundry of it dilutes cold: 16
laundry of it dilutes hot: 3
sink of it dilutes cold: 8
sink of it dilutes hot: 9
safe, telephones, plugs, butane, wc, chemical wc, drainage of caravans, washer
pool, infantile pool, tennis, rent of bicycles,
rates:
mature night: 3.00 eur
boy night: 2.00 eur
car night: 2,70 eur
moto noche: 2,35 eur
caravan night: 3.20 eur
spread night: 3.20 eur
autocaravana noche: 5.00 eur
electricity night: 2,50 eur
i price it parcels: 10.10 eur
it includes: car, caravan, electricity, 0 adults, 0 children,

In the mountain this forbidden the one camped free. We can sleep outdoors in the base of the mountain. (bivouacs).

Foremost peaks

LA CABRILLA (1.948 m / 6.391 ft)
RISCO DE LAS MORILLAS (1.998 m / 6.555 ft)
PUERTO DEL PEÓN (2.051 m / 6.729 ft)
LA CASA ( 1.845 m / 6.053 ft)
PEÑA DEL MEDIODIA ( 2.224 m / 7.296 ft)
LA MIRA (2.341 m / 7.680 ft)
LOS GALAYOS ( 2.216 m / 7.270 ft)
RISCOS DE VILLAREJO
SERRANILLOS

Maps and sketches

El Torozo. Climbing Routes

In The Torozo the roads are of classic court in an alpine atmosphere (2.026 meters the North Torozo) reflecting for dihedral and affordable fissures. This section in turn is divided in several sections, which show us different climbing routes in the Torozo. Each one of the sections belongs together with a picture, which is noted for not making a mistake of route. All the pictures are taken of the Desnivel publishing, with their corresponding graphics of the routes.

Picture nº1

Nº	Name	Height	Difficulty	First Ascension
1	Cada vez que ladras cobras	200 meters	L1:V/6a, L2:V, L3:V, L4:V, L5:6a, L6:V, L7:6a, L8:IV+, L.
2	Espolón oeste	200 meters	L1:V+/6a, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:IV, L6:6a, L7:6a+
3	Pan con membrillo	200 meters	L1:V, L2:IV+, L3:V, L4:V, L5:V, L6:V, L7:6aL8:IV+	June 1980 by Anastasio Viejo and Jose Manuel Vilches
4	Fisura sinuosa	200 meters	L1:IV+, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:IV, L5:IV, L6:IV+
5	Vía del friend nº1	200 meters	L1:IV+, L2:V, L3:IV, L4:V, L5:V, L6:V, L7:IV, L8:IV, L9	March 1982 by Tino Nuñez, Guiñales and Goli Serrano.

Picture nº2

Nº	Name	Height	Difficulty	First Ascension
1	Teorema discontínuo	150 meters	L1:6a+, resto máx. V+/6a
2	Mono de birra	150 meters	L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:6a, L4:6b
3	Cara niña	150 meters	L1:V-, L2:V+, L3:V, L4:6a+, L5:IV+, L6:IV	04-09-1982 by Jose Luis Arias and Rafael Hidalgo
4	Doble cara mortal	150 meters	L1:V+/A0, L2:V/A0, L3:6a/A0, L4:6a/A0, L5:IV+, L6:IV+, L	20-03-1983 by Jose Luis Arias, Rafael Hidalgo and Rafael Valero
5	Cara cartón	150 meters	L1:6b/A0, L2:V+, L3:6a, L4:IV, L5:IV	29-01-1983 by Jose Luis Arias and Francisco Burdalo
6	Muñecas de porcelana	150 meters	L1:A1/6a, L2:6a, L3:IV+, L4:V 7
7	Variante por la cara	80 meters	IV+, IV+, V, IV	Spring 1983 by Jose Luis Arias and Rafael Hidalgo
8	Variante monchoman	150 meters	L1:V, L2:V

Picture nº3

Nº	Name	Height	Difficulty	First Ascension
1	Pan con membrillo	200 meters
2	Fisura sinuosa	200 meters
3	Campomanes/Martín	200 meters	L1:IV, L2:IV+, L3:IV, L4:III, L5:V+, L6:6a, L7:IV, L8:IV
4	Un viaje desconocido	200 meters	L1:IV+, L2:V, L3:V, L4:III, L5:V+, L6:IV, L7:IV	April 1986 by Gabriel Martín, Jaime Garrigós, Angeles, Juan José Fernández and Belén Molina.
5	Vía del friend	200 meters	L1:6b/A0, L2:V+, L3:6a, L4:IV, L5:IV	29-01-1983 by Jose Luis Arias and Francisco Burdalo
6	Guirles/Campos	200 meters	L1:IV, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:6b, L6:6b, L7:IV.	Summer 1977 by Daniel Guirles and Luis Campos
7	Babino pan y vino	150 meters	L1:V+, L2:V, L3:6a+, L4:6a+, L5:6a, L6:V+
8	Variante de salida	150 meters	6b
9	Gran diedro	200 meters	L1:IV, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:V+, L6:IV.	1972 by Emilio García Viel and Eduardo Sánchez

Picture nº4

Nº	Name	Height	Difficulty	First Ascension
1	Arroz pegao	250 meters	L1: 6b+, L2:IV, L3:6a, L4:A0/7a, L5:A2/V+
2	Vía de los amigos	250 meters	L1:IV+, L2:IV+/V, L3:V, L4:V+, L5:V+, L6:V, L7:A2/V+	Spring 1982 by Angel Luis Muñoz and Manolo Cardero
3	Tangerine dreams	250 meters	L1:IV, L2:V, L3:A0/6c, L4:V, L5:6a+, L6:6a, L7:V, L8:A0/	29-05-1983 by Manolo Cardero and José Puch.
4	Siniestro total	250 meters	L1:IV+, L2:6b, L3:6a, L4:6c, L5:6b, L6:IV+, L7:6b, L8:6ª	30-01-1983 by Enrique Alvarez, Carlos Arroyo and Jose Luis Arias.
5	La turururu	250 meters	L1:V, L2:7a
6	Rivera de curtidores	250 meters	L1:6a, L2:A2+/6a
7	Vía del cala	250 meters	L1:A0/7a, L2:6a, L3:6c+/7a, L4:6c+, L5:6c, L6:6ª	June 1993 by Gabriél Martín, cristobal Real, Juanjo Fernández and Belén Molina.

Picture nº5

Nº	Name	Height	Difficulty	First Ascension
1	Vía del cala	250 meters
2	Moby Dick	250 meters	L1:6b+, L2:V, L3:6c+/A0, L4:A0/6c+, L5:V, L6:6a+.	01-11-1981 by Juan Aznar and Daniel Arroyo.
3	La Lumi	250 meters	L1:6b+, L2:V, L3:6b, L4:6a, L5:6b/A0, L6:A0/6a+, L7:V	January 1984 by Jose M. Vilches, Rubén Prendes, Octavio A. Viejo, Juan Muñoz and Jose M. Adrados.
4	Juanito el 15	250 meters	L1:V+, L2:6b, L3:6a, L4:6a, L5:6b+, L6:A0/7a, L7:6a+
5	Luisa la Garrona	250 meters	L1:6a+, L2:6b, L3:V+, L4:6a+, L5:6a
6	Drácula	250 meters	L1:6a+, L2:6b, L3:A0/7a, L4:6c+, L5:V+, L6:V+, L7:V+
7	Galayos	250 meters	L1:IV+, L2:IV, L3:III, L4:V, L5:V+, L6:V+, L7:V	Spring 1979 by Estanislao Zamora and José Ramón Pérez
8	Siniestro total
9	La turururu
10	Rivera de curtidores

La Albujea. Climbing routes

La Albujea, formerly call the "La pared de Alberjal", is a great badge of difficulty that remembers to the Helmet of the from Madrid Pedriza, and usually less frequented that The Torozo, since its equipment is not in the line of security prevailing today in day.

Picture nº6

Nº	Name	Height	Difficulty	First Ascension
1	Garrapate free	150 meters	L1:V+, L2:V, L3:III
2	Vía Solé	150 meters	L1:V, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4:IV
3	La verde	150 meters	L1:V+, L2:V, L3:V, L4:IV
4	Carmes	150 meters	L1:6a,+, L2:V, L3:IV, L4:III
5	Maneras de vivir	150 meters	L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:V+, L4:III+
6	Variante de entrada directa	150 meters	L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:V+, L4:III+
7	La cicatriz	150 meters	6b
8	Ovaladas blancas	150 meters	L1:A2/6b, L2:6a+, L3:6b, L4:III
9	Wanchos	150 meters	L1:6a+, L2:A1/V, L3:V+
10	La danza del silencio	120 meters	L1:6a, L2:6a+, L3:A0/6b, L4:V	10-11-1991 by Mariano Rituerto and Angel Lozano
11	Tostadez mental	87 meters	L1:6c, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4:6b, L5:V	September 1993 by Rafael Fanegas and Eladio Vicente
12	Vía del pelos	40 meters	6b
13	Juegos peligrosos	150 meters	L1:6c+, L2:6a, L3:IV, L4:6b, L5:6b	September 1993 by Rafael Fanegas and Eladio Vicente.
14	Muertos agradecidos	160 meters	L1:6a, L2:6b, L3:V, L4:6a+, L5:IV+, L6:6b, L7:V	17-06-1984 by Juan Carlos Guichot and Jose A. Fernández
15	Serpiente blanca	150 meters	L1:IV. L2:A0/6c, L3:IV+, L4:V, L5:6a, L6:A2/6a, L7:V	23-05-1982 by Javier Pulido, Julio Menéndez andJuan Carlos Guichot
16	Paranoia contínua	150 meters	L1:7a, L2:7a, L3:6b, L4:IV, L5:6c+/A2, L6:6ª
17	Te apellidas fiambre	150 meters	L1:7a+, L2:6a+, L3:V, L4:A0/6c, L5:IV+
18	Aturdido y confuso	130 meters	L1:6b+, L2:6a, L3:IV+, L4:IV+, L5:IV+	20-03-1983 by Carlos Arroyo and Enrique Álvarez
19	Ferrería de Arenas o más vale maña que fuerza	120 meters	L1:6c, L2:IV+/V	25-10-1981 by Mariano Rituerto, Vicente Hernández, Angel Rituerto, Ricardo P. Gómez, Jesús García and Jose Manuel Navarro.
20	Capitán viajes	130 meters	L1:6b, L2:V, L3:V+, L4:A0/IV+.	Spring 1992 by Jose A. Fernández
21	Guadarrama	130 meters	L1:IV, L2:IV+, L3:V, L4:IV+, L5:A1/V	Summer 1980 by Javier Valentín and Isaías
22	Pasto de cabras	130 meters	L1:III, L2:III+, L3:IV, L4:IV, L5:IV, L6:IV
23	El muro de Meli	130 meters	L1:III, L2:III+, L3:II, L4:IV+, L5:V+/A1, L6:6c/A0, L7:6

Picture nº7

Nº	Name	Height	Difficulty	First Ascension
1	Bordillo	100 meters	6c
2	Bordillo	100 meters	7a
3	Bordillo	100 meters	6a+
4	Destrepe filón	110 meters	II
5	La mama escaladora	105 meters	V-
6	La pañoleta, el bordón, y el cuatrobollos	110 meters	IV+
7	Desconocida	110 meters	V
8	Garrapata free	120 meters	V+
9	Isa	125 meters	III	14-11-1976 by Alejandro Muñoz and Angel Rituerto
10	Solo integral Josechu	120 meters	6a
11	Sole	100 meters	6b	30-06-1990 by Mariano Rituerto and Gregorio Lozano
12	La verde	130 meters	V+	22-11-1981 by Mariano Rituerto, Angel Rituerto and Jesús García
13	Aspitos	70 meters	6a
14	Carmes	140 meters	6a+	13-05-1984 by Mariano Rituerto, Fernando Pinar and Luis Fernando Cajal.
15	Lagarto pinto	70 meters	6b+
16	Maneras de vivir	140 meters	6a+	23-05-1982 by “La vasca de la prosperidad”

Notes and Warnings

The granite is very compact. In The Torozo the fissures and the dihedral ones are plentiful, with some occasional badge. On the contrary, The Albujea is a badge of adherence in the one that occasionally will find quartz glasses, small “regletas” and flagstones. Classic and alpine court roads in The Torozo, the same as their neighbor, the Torozo North summit. And adventure roads on badge in The Albujea. In The Albujea it is necessary to dominate the escalade of adherence and it demands a good level. The Torozo is presented more affordable for its variety, difficulty and number of routes than they reflect mainly for dihedral and fissures, we will sometimes find a little these more dirty of the habitual thing depending on the number of repetitions with those that counts that itinerary during the year, that which doesn't mean that the road is not boa and advisable but rather it is an area little visited. The roads of The Albujea are assured with burins or espits or both, but many of these anchorages are old or they move away enough. For The Torozo it is necessary a friends game and another of “fisureros”, since the land is purely alpine, although there are already many roads with the meetings installed, mainly in the southeast face. It will be enough strings of 55 meters, except in the “Luisa la Garrona”, where we need 60 meters. Although they form oneself solid, The Albujea, The Torozo and their North summit are clearly differentiated and separated by two big channels, guided respectively toward the Southwest and south. The first one divides The Albujea and the North summit and the second this last one and The Torozo. In The Albujea the roads go from the V+ to the 7a+/7b, prevailing the 6b/6c. The degrees are quite homogeneous in all the routes. Some itineraries are exposed by the state of the anchorages and the distance among them. It suits to dominate the degree of the road that we climb. Nevertheless there are roads that can be made peacefully. In The Torozo the itineraries embrace from the V to the 7a+, being plentiful fissures mainly and dihedral from V+ at 6b. More affordable when existing the possibility of frank autoasegurement. In the North summit of The Torozo the routes go from the V to the 6c, affordable but very little fixed equipment, some nail or occasional espit.

Different climbing degrees in rock. Conversion factors

This is a brief description of the different escalade degrees according to different countries and their conversion factors

This is a brief description of the different climbing degrees according to different countries and their conversion factors. A road is delimited according to a scale of very precise difficulty. The different difficulties appear as the escalade evolves sportly. Each school, each country has elaborated its own scale of difficulties that can translate himself in a scale of degrees. However it is not necessary to follow this scale with all accuracy, the gradation of an escalade road is not but that an evaluation of the wall, therefore this means in it finishes instance it is to the climber's service.

Australian

UIAA

French

YDS

NCCS

UK.Adj.

UK.Tech.

RSA

Saxon

Czech

Norw.

Swed.

V-grade

5.2

easy

5.3

5.4

III

5.5

vhd

5.6

5.7

e10

VIIa

5.8

V0-

VIIb

5.9

6a+

VIIc

5.10a

F10

5.10b

VIIIa

V0+

6b+

5.10c

5.10d

F11

VIIIb

5.11a

6c+

VIIIc

5.11b

F13

IXa

5.11c

7a+

5.11d

IXb

5.12a

F14

IXc

5.12b

7b+

5.12c

F15

7c+

5.12d

5.13a

F16

5.13b

8a+

10-

5.13c

V10

8b+

5.13d

V11

5.14a

10+

8c+

5.14b

V12

11-

V13

5.14c

5.14d

V14

It will be of great utility the following internet link, where besides being able to see the different escalade degrees in the different scales, we will have an explanation of each one of the scales as well as a dictionary of escalade terms.

"Climbing dictionary and climbing ratings and grades"

Related books

1.- La Sierra de Gredos
ISBN: 8487746446
Author: Gabriel Martín
Date: 1994
Editorial: Desnivel
Price: 11,00 €
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2.- Crónicas de Gredos
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Author: Juan Andrés Feliú Suárez
Price: 18,21 €
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3.- Cuadernos de Montaña
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4.- Gredos. Guía de excursiones y ascensiones.
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Price: 16,50 €
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5.-Guía de la Sierra de Gredos
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6.- Rutas para descubrir la Sierra de Gredos
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Author: Carlos Manuel Martín Jiménez
Date: 2000
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Price: 9,62 €
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Historical point of view of the environment

The solid of "El Torozo" is in the near of the solid oriental of the mountain of Gredos. You arrives until him through the Puerto del Pico. This area besides being very well-known for those fond of the mountain in general and to the escalade in rock in particular, it is characterized by their great historical importance. The Puerto del Pico has been unavoidable step for salesmen and merchants that trafficked among the two Castillas. Already in times of Celtic and Vetones in the Iberian peninsula this route was used.

Their importance but significant that acquires it in the time of the Roman conquest of the Iberian peninsula. It was in this time where you builds a work of big span to facilitate the step of travelers and merchants, The Roman Roadway.
The first roads obeyed strategic reasons mainly, to facilitate the conquest and later domain from the incorporate territories to the Empire. Little by little their left knitting a vast net that became vehicle transmitter of a language, a religion, an art and some customs that today in day shares most of the mediterranean countries.

The remains that are even conserved of the Roman roadway of the Puerto del Pico lapse from Cuevas del Valle until the high of the port. Although the conservation state is good, at the moment it has been developed a restoration project and recovery of the Roadway. For but information:

www.aecarretera.com/alegre/home.htm

One of their more significant uses was the canalization of the seasonal displacements of the flocks from the high lands of the north to the meadows and valleys of Extremadura and Andalucia, where the livestock could find food during the winter, when the grasses of the north were covered with snow., called TRANSHUMANCIA.

In function of the trashumancia left creating an extensive net of real narrow canyons, sidewalks and lines, about 125.000 kilometers of roads without paving, with approximate widths of 75 meters, 37,5 meters and 21 meters, respectively, and with vegetation so that the animals went feeding until arriving to the "descansaderos" of the meadows, avoiding the cultivated fields and the populations.

Many of these routes were juxtaposed to wearing shoes Roman and old roads. Good test of it is it the central tract of the Western Cañada Leonesa that takes advantage of this Roman roadway of the Puerto del Pico to cross the Sierra of Gredos. This narrow canyon had its origin in the mounts of the north of León, it went by Medina de Rioseco, Tordesillas and Medina del campo, it crossed the county of Ávila and it descended until the south of Extremadura for Navalmoral de la Mata, Trujillo and Don Benito. In Ávila the journey was for Arévalo, San Pedro del Arroyo, Muñico, Puerto de Menga, Puerto del Pico, Mombeltrán, Cuevas del Valle and Ramacastañas.

Today in day if we ascend for the road of the Puerto del Pico we will even meet with the enormous livestock flocks that ascend to the grasslands of the mountain in the summery period and they go down to the extremeñas plains in the winter period.

External Links

Junta de Castilla y León
Hotels, Campings and interesting telephones of Gredos
Arenas de San Pedro
Mountaneering section in this Arenas de San Pedro's council web.
Grupo Gredos de Montaña
Interesting web to practice activities in Sierra de Gredos, rock climbing, routes and diferents expeditions
"El Torozo". Enviroment
Page that it describes the environment of this mountain, surroundings, with some pictures and interesting data.
Language; English

Images



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