OverviewStrahlengratli is a rocky ridge on the Tiefen glacier in the Urner Alps in central Switzerland. Reaching 3021m at it's highest point it is approximately 400 meters in length and the climbing difficulties vary according to the chosen route. Overall though difficulties do not exceed UIAA III and most climbing is of II grade, at times requiring no more than a scramble or a short walk. Because of the overall fairly low difficulty and easy access this route is good practice for the novice Alpinist.Getting ThereThe route can be reached from either the Albert-Heim hut to the east or from the Sidelenhutte which lies just to the south. Approaching from the Sidelenhutte side does require a saddle to be crossed however, the Untere Bielenlucke, but this does not pose significant difficulties.
The approach from the Albert-Heim side recommends itself for straightforwardness; from the hut one follows the marked path to the Tiefen glacier and then keeping north of the Chli Bielenhorn reaches the broad ridge that is the Strahlengratli.
The route itself can be begun at various points, as long as one climbs towards the main ridge there is no danger of losing the way.
Both the huts can be reached in less than 2 hours from their respective carparks along the road from the Furkapass to Andermatt. The walk in to the Sidelen hut is somewhat longer, from the Albert-Heim car park this route can be done fairly easily in a day. For those of us with a smaller budget, the Albert-Heim car park is an excellent biouvac spot.
Route DescriptionStick to the ridge for the best climbing but alternate according to taste and ability. Various parts are bolted and as long as the main ridge is followed there is not much chance of getting lost. The route ends on a broad 'summit' plateau easily recognizable as the highest point by the stoneman.
The descent is easiest on the southern side of the ridge where you can make your way back to the start of the route via a couple of snowfields and some easy downclimbing. See the map for details.Essential GearPlenty of slings, some small-medium sized friends, a small set of rocks and approx. 4 quickdraws. Don't forget a helmet!
Map: Swiss 1:25000 map #1231; 'Urseren'
Guidebook: SAC Fuhrer Urner Alpen III or Schweiz Plaisir Ost.
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