OverviewThe Three Teeth contain exposed and challenging climbing along the beautiful Sawtooth Traverse. A high narrow arete formed of huge blocks and steep split granite, separated from each other by deep notches. To traverse the Teeth is, as Peter Croft would say "to be on a summit all day" There are several routes to the summits of the various Teeth but certainly the traverse of the Teeth has to rank as the one of the best if not the best route. It seems the Teeth don't see much traffic and the last entry in the summit register of the SE Tooth appeared to be 2002.
In my opinion the 5.5 rating is probably closer to 5.7 by todays ratings. Paul Teare and Jay Smith put up a 5.10b route on the NE face of the SE tooth in 1992. Mister prolific, Fred Beckey put up several routes as well as Galen Rowell.
Getting ThereFrom the town of Bridgeport on hwy 395, take the Twins lks rd 13 miles to Mono Village resort. There is a fee here for overnight parking. Take the trail up into Horse creek cyn. Continue up Horse creek past the Cattle creek cutoff on well worn use trails. This gives access to the entire northern aspect of the Sawtooth Ridge, including Matterhorn, Dragtooth, Doodad, Three Teeth etc. The Teeth can also be approached from the southwest via Slide cyn.
Red TapeOvernight parking at Mono Village requires a parking permit obtained at the campground entrance. Overnight stays in the Hoover wilderness require a wilderness permit. Obtain one at the conveniently located ranger station just south of Bridgeport on 395 before turning up to Twin Lks.
No permits or fees required for day hiking or day parking. Park at the end of upper Twin Lk. before entering the the overnight parking area.CampingThere are a number of Forest service campgrounds around Twin Lks. Several resorts operate around the shores as well with Mono village being the largest and most crowded. Camping in the backcountry requires a permit as mentioned above. Bears are active in the area, plan accordingly.Route overviewNorthwest Tooth
Traverse, see route
Southwest face: loose 5.6 1941 Brower, Meyer, Argiewicz
West Notch cl 4-5 1949 Cook, Taylor, Firey, Hansen
Middle Tooth
NE face 5.5 1933 Clark, Johnson, Kehrlein, May
SW face 5.9, A1 1972 Heath, Sumner
SW face direct 5.10 1976 Roberts, Beckey,
SE Tooth
NE face 5.7 1969 Jones, Beckey, Rowell
NE face (left side)1987 Runnels, Swanson
NE face 5.10B(Topo in summit register)1992 Teare, Smith
See Roper and Secor guides for detailed information.
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