April 20, 2008 The National Park Service is presently updating and generally messing around with the Glacier National Park web site.

Many of the links are changing and while they are working, many of the links do not work properly.

So, many of the links in this page do not work. We are waiting for the NPS to finalize their work before trying to update links.

Until then, try starting here at the webcam page which has been one of the more reliable recently GNP webcam page and try to navigate from there.

Or, try this non-government information site: Glacier National Park Information

Gunsight Mountain and Sperry Glacier from the north.

Setting / from the north

Overview

From Reynolds Mountain

Gunsight Mountain is a large double summited peak located immediately south of Sperry Glacier in Glacier National Park. The western, more rocky summit is the higher of the two. Views from the summit are especially nice to the north and northeast with most of the peaks in those directions visible. Views to the east are dominated and blocked by Mount Jackson.

Sperry Glacier is one of the largest glaciers in the park and is a very popular hiking destination.

Gunsight was first climbed by Dr. Lyman Sperry and party in 1905.

On a good day, Gunsight Mountain can be seen near the center of the Lake McDonald Web Cam. For peak names, see This Photo

Getting There

Approach from the west.

Glacier National Park is located in northwestern Montana. Going-to-the-Sun Road is the main scenic route through the Park. It is not kept open during the winter. Closing in the fall and opening in the spring depends on snow depth and conditions. Opening of Logan Pass can be as late as July, but the road is opened in stages and is usually open to the end of Lake McDonald quite early.

Along the trail.

Detailed information about the road, including spring opening information: GTS Road Information

Routes on Gunsight Mountain are approached via the Sperry Glacier Trail, which starts near the Lake McDonald Lodge.

Lake McDonald Area Map & Trail Descriptions

Routes Overview

GUIDEBOOK: A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK; J. Gordon Edwards

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:

Because of the nature of the rock, there are special considerations regarding climbing in Glacier National Park, and grading systems unique to the Park have been developed. Please see this Fact Sheet for further details:

GNP Rock & Grading Systems

All three established routes are approached via the Sperry Glacier Trail. They can be climbed in a long day from the trailhead, but far more leisurely with a camp near Sperry Chalet. It is 10.4 miles with about 5,000 feet of elevation gain from the trailhead to the glacier. From the end of the trail to the summit is about another 1.5 miles and just over 1,000 feet of elevation gain.

Northwest Ridge This ridge starts just above the stairway at end of the trail and consists of a series of rotten cliffs most of which can be bypassed. But at least one must be climbed. The most difficult class 5 section is best climbed on the eastern side of the ridge.

West Face One climbs the Northwest Ridge to the base of the class 5 cliff, then traverses about half way across the west face where an easy couloir leads to the summit ridge which involves some class 3 and 4 climbing.

Northeast Slope From the end of the trail at the edge of the glacier, one can make their way up the peak via either easy snow slopes (ice axe & crampons) or class 2 and 3 rock bands and talus. Early in the season, snow travel will be required.

On the NE Slope.
View to the East.

On the NE Slope.

Near the Summit.

Sperry Glacier

From the north.

Close up from the north.

On the glacier.

The last bit of trail
to the glacier
from the west.

Red Tape

National Park Entrance Fees apply in Glacier National Park: Current Park Entrance Fees

A complete set of Rules and Regulations governing Glacier National Park can be accessed on the What's New Page. It is a lengthy PDF file.

Registration for day climbs in Glacier National Park is recommended, but not mandatory.

When To Climb

June, July, August, September, and even into October depending on the amount of snow and the road closures.

Camping

Wildlife

There are numerous campgrounds available within Glacier National Park:

GNP Campground Status and Information

There are also many campgrounds just outside the Park on both the west and east sides.

Camping on the Blackfeet Reservation is restricted to established campgrounds only.

Accomodations and Campgrounds on the Blackfeet Reservation.

Sperry Chalet

If planning to stay overnight nearer the mountain, the Sperry Backcountry Campground (code SPE on the map) is located near Sperry Chalet. It only has four sites, two of which may be reserved.

Backcountry Camping Information

One can also stay at Sperry Chalet. Probably a bit pricey for most climber types.

Mountain Conditions

Setting from the west.

The NPS What's New web page has several live cams and links to updates on local conditions, including a weather report link:

Glacier Park What's New Page

External Links

Glacier Mountaineering Society

Images



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