April 20, 2008 The National Park Service is presently updating and generally messing around with the Glacier National Park web site.

Many of the links are changing and while they are working, many of the links do not work properly.

So, many of the links in this page do not work. We are waiting for the NPS to finalize their work before trying to update links.

Until then, try starting here at the webcam page which has been one of the more reliable recently GNP webcam page and try to navigate from there.

Or, try this non-government information site: Glacier National Park Information

Edwards Mountain (left) and Little Matterhorn from the northeast.
Photo by saintgrizzly

From the west.

Overview

From the east.

Edwards Mountain a distinctive ar�te located just northeast of the northern end of Lake McDonald on the west side of Glacier National Park. It is one of the first larger peaks seen by visitors entering the Park from West Glacier. The summit of Edwards Mountain offers an excellent view of Sperry Glacier. It can be climbed in a long day from Lake McDonald, or more leisurely with an overnight at or near Sperry Chalet.

On a good day, Edwards Mountain can be seen on the right side of the Lake McDonald Web Cam. For peak names, see This Photo

An exceptional computer generated photo: Brown, Edwards, & Gunsight from McDonald Lake

Getting There

Wintery view
from near Logan Pass

Glacier National Park is located in northwestern Montana. Going-to-the-Sun Road is the main scenic route through the Park. It is not kept open during the winter. Closing in the fall and opening in the spring depends on snow depth and conditions. Opening of Logan Pass can be as late as July, but the road is opened in stages and is usually open to the end of Lake McDonald quite early.

Detailed information about the road, including spring opening information: GTS Road Information

Both routes on Edwards Mountain is approached via the Sperry Glacier Trail, which starts near the Lake McDonald Lodge.

Lake McDonald Area Map & Trail Descriptions

Red Tape

Setting from the west.

National Park Entrance Fees apply in Glacier National Park: Current Park Entrance Fees

A complete set of Rules and Regulations governing Glacier National Park can be accessed on the What's New Page. It is a lengthy PDF file.

Registration for day climbs in Glacier National Park is recommended, but not mandatory.

Routes Overview

GUIDEBOOK: A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK; J. Gordon Edwards

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:

Because of the nature of the rock, there are special considerations regarding climbing in Glacier National Park, and grading systems unique to the Park have been developed. Please see this Fact Sheet for further details:

GNP Rock & Grading Systems

A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK describes two routes on Edwards Mountain.

Edwards Mountain from the southeast (summit of Gunsight Mountain). A traverse of the peak ascending the West Ridge and descending the East Ridge / Face basically follows the skyline left to right.

For those wishing to climb class 4 & 5, a traverse of the mountain ascending the West Ridge and descending via the East Face makes an excellent trip that can also be combined with a climb of Gunsight Mountain on the same day.

West Ridge, Class 4 & 5, about 8.5 miles and 5,800 vertical feet from Lake McDonald. The ridge is attained by climbing the slope just north of Sperry Chalet (Class 2 & 3) to the ridge crest. One then follows the ridge either on the crest or just below it to the summit. Many variations are possible.

East Face / Ridge, Class 2 & 3, about 8.5 miles and 5,800 vertical feet from Lake McDonald. The route starts just above the "stairs" leading to Sperry Glacier and climbs the lower slopes and small cliffs to the final summit ridge which is then followed to the summit.

When To Climb

On the East Ridge

June, July, August, September, and even into October depending on the amount of snow and the road closures.

Camping

There are numerous campgrounds available within Glacier National Park:

GNP Campground Status and Information

There are also many campgrounds just outside the Park on both the west and east sides.

Camping on the Blackfeet Reservation is restricted to established campgrounds only.

Accomodations and Campgrounds on the Blackfeet Reservation

If planning to stay overnight nearer the mountain, the Sperry Backcountry Campground (code SPE on the map) is located near Sperry Chalet. It only has four sites, two of which may be reserved.

Backcountry Camping Information

One can also stay at Sperry Chalet. Probably a bit pricey for most climber types.

Mountain Conditions

The NPS What's New web page has several live cams and links to updates on local conditions, including a weather report link:

Glacier Park What's New Page

External Links

Glacier Mountaineering Society

Images



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