April 20, 2008 The National Park Service is presently updating and generally messing around with the Glacier National Park web site.

Many of the links are changing and while they are working, many of the links do not work properly.

So, many of the links in this page do not work. We are waiting for the NPS to finalize their work before trying to update links.

Until then, try starting here at the webcam page which has been one of the more reliable recently GNP webcam page and try to navigate from there.

Or, try this non-government information site: Glacier National Park Information

Pollock Mountain from the SE (summit of Piegan Mountain).

Setting - above Logan Pass
Pollock second from right.

Overview

From the south.

Pollock Mountain is the most southerly summit along the Garden Wall just north of Logan Pass in Glacier National Park. The main upper part of the mountain is not visible from Logan Pass because the view is blocked by its long south ridge with high points 8325 and 8185. The impressive buttress at the end of this ridge stands above the visitor's center at the pass and is frequently photographed and labeled as Pollock Mountain giving a quite unrealistic sense of what the peak is really like.

From the north.

Pollock Mountain was named for W. C. Pollock, a member of the Indian Commission appointed by the Secretary of the Interior to buy the strip of land along the eastern side of the Rockies from the Blackfeet.

The peak is easily climbed via class 3 routes on the south and north sides and is an excellent viewpoint of the Logan Pass area and peaks to the north and east. The first ascent is unknown.

Views from Pollock Mountain

Southwest to Logan Pass.

West to Oberlin and Cannon.

East to Siyeh.

Getting There

From GTS Road
Approach to south routes

Glacier National Park is located in northwestern Montana. Going-to-the-Sun Road is the main scenic route through the Park and the way to Logan Pass Bishops Cap. It is not kept open during the winter. Closing in the fall and opening in the spring depends on snow depth and conditions. Opening can be as late as July.

Detailed information about the road, including spring opening information: GTS Road Information

A map of the Logan Pass area: Logan Pass Area Map

Red Tape

From the west.
Oberlin in the foreground.

From Oberlin.

National Park Entrance Fees apply in Glacier National Park: Current Park Entrance Fees

A complete set of Rules and Regulations governing Glacier National Park can be accessed on the What's New Page. It is a lengthy PDF file.

Registration for day climbs in Glacier National Park is recommended, but not mandatory.

Routes Overview

GUIDEBOOK: A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK; J. Gordon Edwards

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:

Because of the nature of the rock, there are special considerations regarding climbing in Glacier National Park, and grading systems unique to the Park have been developed. Please see this Fact Sheet for further details:

GNP Rock & Grading Systems

A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK describes just two routes on Pollock Mountain, both on the south and southeast side of the mountain. These are both approached via Lunch Creek (the first creek east of Logan Pass) and the saddle between Pollock Mountain and Piegan Mountain. This saddle can also be reached from Piegan Pass to the northeast, but this is a longer option.

Great Cleft Route

Southeast Couloir Route, class 3. This couloir is located just north of the southeast most corner of the upper cliff band on the mountain. Early in the season on normal snow years, it will be filled with snow and ice. Later in the year, it is a class 3 scree scramble.

Great Cleft Route, class 3. This is an interesting route on the south side of the mountain which at one point involves climbing a narrow chimney less than three feet wide for some 40 to 45 feet. Edwards states that no rope is needed and the remainder of the route is easy ledges and scrambling. See the route page for more photos and a detailed description.

North Ridge, class 2 & 3. This route is not included in the guidebook. The ridge is reached from the top of the Garden Wall on the north side of the peak. Climbing is easiest to the west of and below the crest of the ridge.

Traverse options.

Traverse Options There are several very nice options for spending a day high on the Garden Wall while traversing two or three summits with spectacular views. All involve crossing over Pollock Mountain.

1) Bishops Cap - Pollock Mountain - Piegan Mountain. Going in this direction it is possible to do the three peaks without retracing any ground. Take a northerly approach to Bishops Cap from the Highland Trail, climb Bishops Cap then traverse along the top of the Garden Wall and ascend the North Ridge of Pollock. Descend Pollock via the Southeast Couolir or Great Cleft then scramble up the NE ridge of Piegan Mountain (class 2). Descend the broad south slope of Piegan (being careful to stay east of the cliffs at the bottom) to Lunch Creek and back to the GTS Highway. Photo ...Another possible descent from Piegan is to go from the saddle between Piegan & Pollock north to the Piegan Pass Trail and follow it down to Siyeh Bend.

2) Reverse the route above, but return to the notch in the Garden Wall at the base of the North Ridge of Pollock and descend via the main drainage. This is much faster and safer.

3) Leave out Piegan Mountain and just do Bishops Cap & Pollock from either direction.

When To Climb

Exiting the
"Great Cleft"

June, July, August, September, and even into October depending on the amount of snow and the road closures.

Camping

There is no camping at Logan Pass.

There are numerous campgrounds available within Glacier National Park:

GNP Campground Status and Information

There are also many campgrounds just outside the Park on both the west and east sides.

Camping on the Blackfeet Reservation is restricted to established campgrounds only.

Accomodations and Campgrounds on the Blackfeet Reservation

Mountain Conditions

The NPS What's New web page has several live cams and links to updates on local conditions, including a weather report link:

Glacier Park What's New Page

External Links

Glacier Mountaineering Society

Images



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