Overview
Simmons Peak is a seldom visited yet rugged and challenging mountain a few miles north of the very popular Mt. Lyell in southeastern Yosemite National Park. The summit register dates back to 1966 and averages two or three entries per year. The first ascent was in 1931 by a Sierra Club party. Climbing ranges from horridly loose class 2 talus blocks to a mostly solid technical ridge climb. The easiest route up is the class 2 Southwest Slope, a rather unpleasant crawl up shifting blocks to the South Ridge. The West Ridge/West Face starts with similar loose talus before reaching more stable large blocks and the class 4 West Face. In The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails, Secor lists the East Arete as Grade III, 5.8. The North ridge is a traverse from the saddle south of Parsons Peak to the top of the Northeast Arete. The route looks like it should go class 4. If anyone has climbed the North Ridge please add a route page. The approximate one-way distance and elevation gain/loss for several routes are listed below.
West Slopes/Bernice Lake: 14 miles + 5400ft -1600 ft.
West Slopes/Ireland Lake: 14 miles +5300 ft. -1500 ft.
North Ridge/Ireland Lake: 13 miles +5000 ft. -1200 ft.
Northeast Arete/Maclure Creek: 12.5 miles +4900ft. -1100 ft.
Route pages to follow in a day or two.
Getting There
The most logical trailhead for trips to Simmons Peak is the Lyell Canyon Trail in Tuolumne Meadows. See the Tuolumne Meadows Logistical Center page for details on how to get to Yosemite National Park and public transportation. On highway 120 just east of the Lembert Dome parking lot, turn off on the signed road to Yosemite Lodge. The Wilderness Office (get wilderness permits here) is immediately to the right. About a quarter mile further there is a large trailhead parking lot on the left. Bears frequently visit this parking are, use the bear boxes to store any food. Park rangers are also known to prowl this lot at night looking for improperly stored food or illicit campers attempting to sleep in their vehicles.
Red Tape
There is a $20 entrance fee (good for a week) for Yosemite National Park. Alternately, you can buy a 12 month Yosemite Pass for $40 or a 12 month National Park Pass for $50. Overnight trips into the Yosemite wilderness require a wilderness permit (free, or $5 for advance reservations). See the Yosemite NPS wilderness page for details. If you plan to camp in the backcountry above 9,600 feet, bear canisters are required.
When To Climb
Late spring through autumn is the most popular time to hike the Yosemite high country. Highway 120 is usually open from mid May through October, the actual opening and closing dates vary. After October 15th, the highway may be open, but overnight parking is not permitted. Winter climbing is possible but it involves a long ski approach.
Camping
Backcountry camping is allowed anywhere beyond four miles from Tuolumne Meadows. For climbs from the west, either Bernice Lake or Gallison Lake makes a good base camp (Just south of Vogelsang Pass). For climbs from the north or as an alternate base for climbs on the west side, Ireland Lake has reasonable if a bit exposed camping. For climbs from the east, camp along Maclure Creek.
Wilderness permit holders are entitled to stay in the backpacker’s campground in Tuolumne meadows for one night before and after their hike. Alternately, there are several Forest Service campgrounds outside of the Park just to the east of Tioga Pass.
Mountain Conditions
The National Weather Service website has this forecast for Yosemite and the central Sierra. This Yosemite NPS page has trail conditions updated monthly.
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