Thanks. I appreciate that. This is a really cool place to go. There are many climbs lower on the ears called the lower apron. There is nothing like making th summit. I highly suggest it.
are there any bks. you know of that have this climb listed?
how many pitches to the top via the 5.4/5.5 route? Also, are both Ears technical rock ascents? you've definitely got our attention with this mountain - weather permitting, my wife and I are planning on giving it a shot this weekend.
Thanks. You wont be disappointed in this place. It is really neat. The climbs are listed in the Rock Climbing Southwest Oregon book by Greg Orton. It is available in any REI, mountainshop, etc... Page 57.
We climbed the West Ear Summit route on the soute ridge. Take the trail from the pullout and stay to the right. There is a beautiful crack on the left called the West Chimney but the book says it is loose and rated X. Not my cup of tea. The West Ear Summit route says 5.4 to 5.5 but my girlfriend climbed it in her chako's and we both solo'd it. I would suggest using a rope depending on how comfortable you are. My girlfriend Mary is a scrambling maniac. Be sure to take some triple and double slings to rappel. I think it took 4 full rapps to get to the bottom. It may have been 3. Anyway we used two 60 meter ropes to rappel.
Both ears are technical rock climbs. There are many climbs on the east ear but far to difficult for me. One is a 5.7 but I think it is a bit harder. If you get the chance to scramble down to the Lower Apron there are many quality climbs of moderate to difficult ratings.
Don't forget to take a pencil. The West Ear has a jar for a summit log. It is so wild to see very old paper with signatures from year ago.
Also if you keep following the road past the ears there is a fire lookout that is well worth the half hour drive.
Get the book and all is explained. Hope you have a good time. We are going to climb South Sister this weekend, weather permitting.
Thank you very much for the response and the additional beta - we'll pick up the book and give the climb a shot this weekend (if weather cooperates!!!).
Thanks again.
radek
ps I believe you guys climbed the Becky route on Liberty Bell?? You should definitely try the South Arete route on the South Early Winter Spire if you haven't done so already and you're in the area.
Did you make it to the Rabbit Ears last weekend? I was wondering. We did summit South Sister. It was soooo cold. Very nice at the summit but on the way down I had all my warm layers on. It snowed on us on the way up. Pretty wild weather.
Despite our plans (including getting that nice Rock Climbing SW OR book) we did not. Basically I checked the forecast on Friday night and it looked questionable at best. Figured that it's not worth 'to chance it' given the few hour drive. Thought of doing Beacon Rock instead (that's only a 45 minute drive) but woke up to rain on Saturday.
There seems to be a lot of cool stuff (i.e. nice easy rock climbs with small approaches) in SW Oregon according to that book - just wondering, did you guys ever try the Perigrine Traverse (spelling???)? It's in that book and it too looks very very cool.
We have not tried that one. It does look cool. I have had my eye on that one for quite some time. Another great area in that book is Flagstone. I have climbed almost everything there 5.10 and under. It is a really cool friction experience. You can climb all day and not burn your arms out. I highly recommend it. It is definately not alpine. Straight forward friction rock climbing at it's best. The ratings are easier that the book says. Also the bolting is close making it easier for begging climbers. This is where I started leading. Check it out.
will definitely check it out - thanks. Unfortunately it seems that the climbing season is coming to an end (at least for us who are not yet comfy doing freezing, wet rock type of stuff). Hopefully Smith will give some dry days still this year.
tymelero - Oct 19, 2002 12:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks. I appreciate that. This is a really cool place to go. There are many climbs lower on the ears called the lower apron. There is nothing like making th summit. I highly suggest it.
rpc - Oct 21, 2002 9:10 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentNice!
are there any bks. you know of that have this climb listed?
how many pitches to the top via the 5.4/5.5 route? Also, are both Ears technical rock ascents? you've definitely got our attention with this mountain - weather permitting, my wife and I are planning on giving it a shot this weekend.
much thanks for a cool addition!
rpc
tymelero - Oct 22, 2002 5:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks. You wont be disappointed in this place. It is really neat. The climbs are listed in the Rock Climbing Southwest Oregon book by Greg Orton. It is available in any REI, mountainshop, etc... Page 57.
We climbed the West Ear Summit route on the soute ridge. Take the trail from the pullout and stay to the right. There is a beautiful crack on the left called the West Chimney but the book says it is loose and rated X. Not my cup of tea. The West Ear Summit route says 5.4 to 5.5 but my girlfriend climbed it in her chako's and we both solo'd it. I would suggest using a rope depending on how comfortable you are. My girlfriend Mary is a scrambling maniac. Be sure to take some triple and double slings to rappel. I think it took 4 full rapps to get to the bottom. It may have been 3. Anyway we used two 60 meter ropes to rappel.
Both ears are technical rock climbs. There are many climbs on the east ear but far to difficult for me. One is a 5.7 but I think it is a bit harder. If you get the chance to scramble down to the Lower Apron there are many quality climbs of moderate to difficult ratings.
Don't forget to take a pencil. The West Ear has a jar for a summit log. It is so wild to see very old paper with signatures from year ago.
Also if you keep following the road past the ears there is a fire lookout that is well worth the half hour drive.
Get the book and all is explained. Hope you have a good time. We are going to climb South Sister this weekend, weather permitting.
Later,
Ty Melero
rpc - Oct 23, 2002 9:30 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentTy,
Thank you very much for the response and the additional beta - we'll pick up the book and give the climb a shot this weekend (if weather cooperates!!!).
Thanks again.
radek
ps I believe you guys climbed the Becky route on Liberty Bell?? You should definitely try the South Arete route on the South Early Winter Spire if you haven't done so already and you're in the area.
tymelero - Oct 29, 2002 4:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentDid you make it to the Rabbit Ears last weekend? I was wondering. We did summit South Sister. It was soooo cold. Very nice at the summit but on the way down I had all my warm layers on. It snowed on us on the way up. Pretty wild weather.
Ty
rpc - Oct 29, 2002 5:59 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentTy,
Despite our plans (including getting that nice Rock Climbing SW OR book) we did not. Basically I checked the forecast on Friday night and it looked questionable at best. Figured that it's not worth 'to chance it' given the few hour drive. Thought of doing Beacon Rock instead (that's only a 45 minute drive) but woke up to rain on Saturday.
There seems to be a lot of cool stuff (i.e. nice easy rock climbs with small approaches) in SW Oregon according to that book - just wondering, did you guys ever try the Perigrine Traverse (spelling???)? It's in that book and it too looks very very cool.
radek
tymelero - Nov 3, 2002 5:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentRadek,
We have not tried that one. It does look cool. I have had my eye on that one for quite some time. Another great area in that book is Flagstone. I have climbed almost everything there 5.10 and under. It is a really cool friction experience. You can climb all day and not burn your arms out. I highly recommend it. It is definately not alpine. Straight forward friction rock climbing at it's best. The ratings are easier that the book says. Also the bolting is close making it easier for begging climbers. This is where I started leading. Check it out.
Ty
rpc - Nov 5, 2002 1:40 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentTy,
will definitely check it out - thanks. Unfortunately it seems that the climbing season is coming to an end (at least for us who are not yet comfy doing freezing, wet rock type of stuff). Hopefully Smith will give some dry days still this year.
radek
Popoff - Jan 13, 2003 7:01 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentNice page and route.
tymelero - Jan 27, 2003 1:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for support. This is a really neat place to go.
Ty
wildstar - Nov 20, 2004 1:06 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentThanks for posting the page/