Overview
The first climb of the Hochfeiler was on the 24th of July by Paul Grohmann, Georg Sammer and Peter Fuchs. The Hochfeiler is highest mountain in the Zillertal Alps. The most popular routes are the normal route and the Northface route.
Getting There
You drive thru the "Pfitschervalley" to the village Stein or a little bit further on on the Pfitscher-Joch-Street. Here you stop at the 3rd curve. There are not so much parking space. From here you can go to the Günther-Messner-Bivak-Hut (2429mts.) or to the Hochfeilerhut (2710mts.).
The Bivak (9 sleeping places) is for the Northface routes and the hut for the normal route.
To reach the bivouac-hut it's much shorter parking at the 5th curve. In case your ascent is not successful (weather ...) the next morning and you have to go back you save 2 hours...
It is also possible to go from the Furtschagl-House (2337m). You start the walk from the Schlegeisspeicher at the end of the Zillertaler Valley. From Mayrhofen to the Schlegeisspeicher. See also the page "Grosser Möseler". You need about 2 hours from the Schlegeisspeicher.
From the Furtschaglhouse you have to cross a glacier to come to the Northface. You need 2 to 3 hours. If you climb the N-Face from the Furtschaglhouse it is very difficult to come back to the house. You have to climb down the N-Face or climb the ridge to the Hoher Weisszint (3371m). Difficulty III UIAA; time 4 to 5 hours. From there down to the glacier and back to the Furtschaglhouse. Very long trip.
You can approach Hochfeiler also starting from Edelraute Hutte (Rifugio Ponte di Ghiaccio) located at 2545 meters in the italian side exactly on the Eisbruggjoch (Passo Ponte di Ghiaccio). You can reach the refuge by easy and interesting walking 1,45-2 hours from the artificial Neves lake (about 1850 meters). Paying few Euro for about 3 km of road coming from the village Lappach (Lappago, Valle di Molini) you arrive to the lake where you have to park the car. Crossing the dam (better and faster than walking around the lake) after five minutes starts the patway to the refuge.
Red Tape
The parking space in the 3rd curve is very less. It is also possible at the 5th.
When you start from the Furtschaglhouse you have to pay for the last kilometers on the road. It costs in summer 2004 10 €.
See page "Grosser Möseler".
When To Climb
You can go the routes by ski or by foot. Depends on what you like and what time of the year. I think in winter it will be much harder.
More information: Alpin Information Austria
Camping
The Hochfeilerhut was build in 1986 by the AVS Sterzing. The hut is open from the end of June to the end of September. There is also a room for the winter.
The Furtschaglhouse was build in 1889 by AVS Berlin. It is also open from June to September. It has also a room for winter. 12 places for sleeping.
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