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Another outstanding and very distintive peak on the Kaweah Peaks Ridge. Rock is relatively good on this peak and all climbing routes demand competance and route finding skills. First ascent in 1935 and very seldom climbed, this is a standout peak and is actually better than Black Kaweah as a climb. As with most of the Kaweahs, the spirit of exploration lives here!

Getting There

Its location is nowhere near any trail heads so it can be approached from most any direction. Probably the fastest route to the mountain is from Mineral King via glacier notch and a cross country route over Cyclamen pass. From here you can descend to the Big Arroyo and climb up to the north toward Pyra-queen col and approach from Kaweah Basin or from the basin to the W of the peak.

The following is mpbo excellent approach info.

From Mineral King
A pretty arduous route. There are many options, but the main goal is to cross the Great Western Divide and drop into Big Arroyo. We used Glacier Pass (11,200'/3400m), a class 3 (on a bad year) pass northwest of the usual Sawtooth Pass. Glacier Pass is roughly 5 miles (8km) from and 3300' (1000 m) above Mineral King. A use trail drops you down to gorgeous Spring Lake (10,000'/3000m). From here, we went cross-country down the drainage of Cliff Creek and picked up the obvious switchbacking trail to Black Rock Pass (11,700'/3550m). From the pass, we dropped down into Little Five Lakes Basin and camped. The remaining hike to the base of Black Kaweah is relatively flat and over straight, well-maintained trails.

Getting to the base of the climb in one day from Mineral King...this is an epic test of strength and endurance. You climb around 6500' (2000m) and travel about 18 miles (29km), with some cross-country travel, and carry at least 2 days' worth of food and enough climbing gear for a "non trivial" class 4 peak.

From Wolverton/Crescent Meadow
You can start at Wolverton (7400'/2200m) or Crescent Meadow (6600'/2000m). Either way, get to the High Sierra Trail and simply put your head down and hike. This is an excellent, high-traffic trail, fairly flat (though irritatingly oscillatory at times) to Hamilton Lake (17 mi/27km, 8200'/2500m). From here, the trail climbs steadily to Kaweah Gap (10,700'/3250m, 21mi/34km). Little Nine Lakes Basin is just over the gap.

This approach is longer (22mi/35km) than that from Mineral King, but climbs less (~5000'/1500m) and is over well-traveled trails. The scenery on this route is the less stunning of the two, though spectacular by almost any measure.

Red Tape

The usual wilderness permits are required. See this page for NPS bear food storage requirements.

When To Climb

The summer months of June - Sept are most common. A winter trip would be near expedtion in scope. However winter trans- sierra trips in this area are no longer uncommon.

Camping

Camping is allowed throughout the area subject permit requirements.

Images