Overview“It is as if God has set His sign, His seal, His promise there-a beacon upon the very center and height of the Continent to all its people and all its generations…as if here was a great supply store and workshop of Creation, the fountain of Earth.” --Samuel Bowles, The Switzerland of America, 1869
Mount of the Holy Cross Photo by SP member Colonelpyat One of Colorado's best known 14ers, the legendary Mount of the Holy Cross is famous for the east facing cross couloir, which fills with snow and forms a well defined cross. Erosion has made the cross less defined in the last 100 years. First discovered in 1869, it became the destination of Christian pilgrimages early in the 20th century, and continues to sport a colorful history that persists to this day.
The mountain is only 14 miles from the Vail ski area, and can be seen from a number of vantages, but for an intimate look at the mountain's namesake cross on the east face, one must climb up and over neighboring Notch Mountain to see it. There are two common routes to the top - Halfmoon Pass or Notch Mountain combined with Halo Ridge - both are Class 2 climbs. They can be combined into a loop for a very long day trek. A Class 3 steep snow and ice climb up the Cross Couloir is another route possibility for those looking for a moderate technical challenge. Angelica Couloir and Tear Drop are excellent alternate routes that still require going over Notch Mountain.
Mount of the Holy Cross was once a National Monument, but lost this status in the 50s. The area the mountain commands became a wilderness during the 70s, but this act of Congress did not mean the wilderness was protected. Holy Cross is a wilderness in trouble. What happens to it could happen to your favorite wilderness area next. Be sure to check out the TRIP REPORTS, the WILDERNESS OVERVIEW and HISTORY/CONTROVERSY sections below, as well as the LINKS for more important information.
Getting ThereTake exit 171 off of Interstate 70 - the exit is just a few miles west of Vail - and head south on U.S. 24 a couple miles to the town of Minturn - the last chance for supplies. Continue on 24 south of Minturn for about 3 miles - on the right side of the road you'll spot a forest access sign and Tigiwon Road (FS 707). Tigiwon Road is passable by passenger cars, but you may regret the beating you'll give your vehicle - the road is rough and you'll be driving at walking speed during portions of it if you don't have a jeep or other high clearance SUV. Six miles up the road you'll pass the Tigiwon Campground, with a handful of sites. 8.5 miles up the road will bring you to the Halfmoon Campground and the trailheads, where you park.
NOTE:
The Tigiwon road is closed in the winter at least through June 20 for elk calving, but perhaps longer due to snow conditions.
The maps below illustrate the driving route as well as trail options throughout the wilderness. These options are discussed in the ROUTE OPTIONS OVERVIEW and the WILDERNESS OPTIONS OVERVIEW sections.
All climbs of Holy Cross from the Fall Creek and Halfmoon Trailheads involve a loss of nearly 1,000 feet in elevation in crossing over Notch Mountain, which must be reclimbed on your return, making this mountain one of Colorado's most difficult fourteeners in terms of time required, elevation gain and distance.
Route Options Overview    
STANDARD NORTH RIDGE ROUTE Class 2, 12 miles, 5600 ft. gain (includes reclimb to Halfmoon Pass)
See the description in the ROUTES section. This standard route is full of people on weekends. Consider a trip during the week to minimize impact and get some solitude. Also consider doing a multi-day trip to relax and enjoy the area. Side trips to Patricia Lake and the Bowl of Tears are worth the effort and time.
    
ANGELICA COULOIR Class 2+, 12 miles, 5600 ft. gain(includes reclimb to Half Moon Pass)
From west of East Cross Creek, leave the standard route and contour south on a thin trail below the mountain's north ridge to the base of this couloir, which is usually covered in snow. If no snow is present, the rock will be loose. The couloir climbs to the right of the summit block to join the standard route. Route finding and scrambling experience suggested.
   
PATRICIA LAKE, BOWL OF TEARS Class 2, 9 miles, 3700 ft. gain (includes reclimb to Half Moon Pass)
Follow East Cross Creek to Patricia Lake. This option involves route finding through and under a huge maze of gigantic boulders (Class 2) but it's great fun. An easier walking alternative is to go west of the creek on the standard route, follow a faint trail south up the west side of the creek (Couloir Variation above) and find your way back east to Patricia Lake. Continue upstream to the beautiful Bowl of Tears.
   
TEARDROP Class 2, 12 miles, 5600 ft. gain
Continue up the drainage west from the Bowl of Tears, intercept the Halo Ridge Route and climb northeast to the summit. Good snow climb early season, otherwise expect a great wasteland of rock above the Bowl of Tears.
   
HOLY CROSS COULOIR Grade III, Class 3 (Steep Snow), 5600 ft. gain (includes reclimb to Half Moon Pass)
Follow the Couloir Variation to the Bowl of Tears, then angle northwest up the mountain above cliffs to enter the couloir for a direct ascent. Climb on solid snow only. Avalanche potential in Spring should be considered. Ice axe, crampons and winter gear required, rope and rack recommended for safety. Refer to Gerry Roach's "Colorado's Fourteeners" guide book for details. Return the Standard Route.
     
HALO RIDGE and FALL CREEK VARIATION Class 2, 18 miles, 5,200 ft. gain
Take the Fall Creek trail from the parking area to the Notch Mountain Trail. Follow this trail to the Shelter House and the Cross Couloir viewing spot. Continue south and west around the Halo Ridge, eventually turning north to the mountain itself. Return standard route unless you are camping in the Fall Creek drainage. See the Halo Ridge and Fall Creek Variation in the ROUTES section. Also refer to the Holy Cross Ridge page.
The tremendous gain on the above routes is due to the nearly 1,000 feet you must reclimb going back over Notch Mountain. (See the map in GETTING THERE section). ROUND TRIP mileages are estimates and assume returning the same route. Loop options and variations will vary your distance traveled. For route options not involving the Mount of the Holy Cross, refer to the WILDERNESS OVERVIEW section on this page. See the maps in the GETTING THERE section.
Red Tape & ControversySeveral Colorado wilderness areas now require a free user permit to be in the wilderness, or shortly will require same. The wilderness areas are Holy Cross, Maroon Bells/Snowmass, Mount Evans, and Mount Massive. Permit tags are available at trailheads and are a two part tag. The white part goes in the box provided and the card portion is to be attached to the outside of your pack. There is currently no penalty if one does not have a permit. However, large fines could be levied within a few years for non-compliance. The preferred method now for dealing with violations is education of the users.
The reason for implementation of this required permit is the Forest Service has been unable to obtain accurate data on use patterns from the voluntary sign-in system. The estimated compliance range is currently 10-30%.
The hope is to obtain better data with this new method. While some may feel this is a precursor of some kind of quota system, the opposite is actually true. Accurate information on visitor use patterns will allow the forest service to attempt to evenly distribute impacts and encourage use of alternate trailheads for the same destinations. However, given the magnitude of the state's continuing population boom, folks should not be surprised if quotas in certain areas become a necessity.
Thanks to SP member mtnhiker13 for supplying this vital update via the Colorado Mountain Club's email service.
Specific information can be viewed here.
This mountain is in the Holy Cross Wilderness, part of the White River National Forest. Please observe wilderness protocols while visiting, particularly since this is a very popular, heavily impacted area. Please register at the trailhead.When To ClimbTwo Elk Lodge Webcam at Vail
Frequently aimed right at the Mount of the Holy Cross
July through September are the best months for climbing this mountain. The later in the summer, the better, however August is notorious for monsoon weather. Holy Cross can make its own weather, and make weather passing through worse. Do not attempt the approach or the mountain in questionable weather. See this trip report.
Late May through June would offer excellent snow climbing opportunities. Full winter gear and equipment would be required. Be advised that the standard access route, the Tigiwon Road, is closed May 1 through June 20 for elk calving activities, requiring an alternate route and significant added distance resulting in a trip requiring expedition proportions.
Holy Cross Wilderness gets buried in snow in normal years. Winter climbs have been done, but such an option may be impractical for most of the season due to the location of the mountain, topography of the surrounding area, elk calving closures and avalanche potential.
Notes offered by SP member Scott Patterson which should be considering when plannning a winter attempt of Holy Cross:
1. The Tigiwon Road is a groomed snowmobile track in the winter. While this makes for faster hiking, be aware that instead of one track along the road, there are several groomed snowmobile tracks which can make navigation difficult. This is especially true on the return. Whatever you do, don't take the first right on the return trip, unless you want to backtrack with an extra two miles and 1000 feet elevation gain.
2. The crux of the route in winter is the final section of the trail above Cross Creek descending Halfmoon Pass. The end of that route is tricky to find in winter, and if you get off route, it can be dangerous. It is best to have this part of the route scouted out in summer before making a winter attempt. Otherwise, plan on getting off route and cliffed out, at least a few times before finding the correct route.
Camping
Camping in the Holy Cross Wilderness
Photo by SP member Joe Hansen There are many camping opportunities. You can camp at Tigiwon or Halfmoon Campgrounds [near the trailhead]. Just over Half Moon Pass, a few choice camp sites can be found just below treeline, not far from some nice alpine, spring fed streams. If you want to backpack in and basecamp, there is great camping 2.5 miles in on the Halfmoon Trail at East Cross Creek (no campfires allowed, however). There are also a few other isolated spots along the trail west of East Cross Creek.
Awesome camp sites can be found at Patricia Lake, perhaps one of the prettiest places in Colorado. More alpine choices are found above Patricia Lake toward the Bowl of Tears.
Good camping can be found at Lake Constantine in the Fall Creek area, 2.5 miles beyond the turn out for the trail up Notch Mountain (see Halo Ridge & Fall Creek Drainage Variation in the ROUTES section). Other camp sites can be found beyond Lake Constantine. Isolated camps can be set at the Tuhare Lakes, or beyond Fall Creek Pass in the gorgeous Seven Sisters area if your goal is somewhere other than Holy Cross.
Camp spots near tarns can be secured well off trail on the ascent section of Notch Mountain. The tarns are located south of the trail about .5 mile, but are well secluded. Your privacy is assured!
Some people stay at the Notch Mountain Shelter, located south of the mountain's namesake notch and summit. Reports of the condition of this shelter house vary. A bivy sack would be a good idea rather than a tent in this case. Should you decide not to stay in the shelter house, be advised over night weather above timberline in this area can be next to catastrophic and make nightmares calm in comparison.
A long approach, usually used on wilderness treks rather than climbing the mountain, is Cross Creek. The trailhead for this option is located on a switchback early in your drive up the Tigiwon Road. Many camping possibilities are along this long trail that cuts a direct path through the heart of the Holy Cross Wilderness. This is true wilderness camping and you are likely not to see a soul the further in you camp. West approaches to the mountain are possible, but this is not a popular option.
Missouri Lakes, accessed from the Homestake Valley road, is a popular area for camping. Camping at the lower lake is excellent. Alpine camping at the high lake is available.
Camping is excellent at Lake Charles and Mystic Island Lake in the western half of the wilderness, south of Eagle.
Camping is abundant in the Homstake Valley area. National Forest camping spots are located in the valley below the Homestake Reservoir.
See maps in the GETTING THERE section.
History & ControversyThe history of Holy Cross is very interesting and colorful. Consider the changes that have taken place as you read the following. Yet, Holy Cross itself remains unchanged...but how long will this be so?
The first printed account of seeing Holy Cross from Grays Peak was made in 1869. The legendary photo by William H. Jackson was taken in 1873, and the mountain was instantly famous. The mountain west of Holy Cross was named in honor of Jackson.
Jackson admitted to well known climber Carl Blaurock in the1930s that he had touched up the right arm of the cross for contrast purposes, but the actual plate was not significantly altered. Suggestions that the cross is deteriorating due to erosion continue. A more realistic tack is snow deposits vary year to year, and the fading cross is the result of increasingly dry winters.
A flurry of mining activity happened around what is now the wilderness area. The nearest minng camp was Holy Cross City, which had a number of gold fever periods before finally shutting down for good in the late 1920s. The town is now just a site, accessed on a road regarded by many as Colorado's toughest 4WD trail. This road offers a south access to the bulk of the wilderness area. It is cared for by some 4WD clubs, and is the only 4WD road near the wilderness boundary.
An act of Congress, H.R. 73339, abolished the Holy Cross area as a monument on August 3, 1950. Administration in 1950 was under the jurisdiction of Rocky Mountain National Park. Less than 50 people visited the area per year and maintenence of a ranger station there was not justified (how things have changed!). The climb was too long and strenuous for most folks (still is) to the shelter house atop Notch Mountain.
On April 2, 1997, Captain Craig Button crashed his military aircraft into Gold Dust Peak, west of the Mount of the Holy Cross. Retreival of parts and explosives happened after wreckage was spotted on the mountain fom the air a year later.
A WILDERNESS IN TROUBLE
In 1967, Colorado Springs and Aurora completed a water tunnel under the Continental Divide to divert water from the southern arm of the wilderness to their locations. This was Phase 1 of the Homestake Project. Phase 2 would involve boring under the mountains deeper into the bulk of the wilderness to remove water from the Cross Creek drainages, including direct taps into Patricia Lake and the Bowl of Tears. Impacts on the wilderness were not addressed. Debate and lawsuits exploded in the wake of strong environmental concern in the late 1980s.
Controversy and lawsuits continue today. The Holy Cross Wilderness Defense Fund and the Sierra Club continue lengthy legal battles to save the wilderness from water diversion plans. This page's maintainer got involved with the battle in 1989 (see TRIP REPORTS). The Holy Cross situation could be precedent setting for other wilderness areas, perhaps your favorite one!
A special report has been submitted. If you are interested in the welfare of the wilderness, be sure to visit the TRIP REPORTS section and read the report: Holy Cross Water: A Wilderness in Trouble.
Material researched from "Holy Cross: The Mountain and the City" by Robert L. Brown. This is an excellent book, but probably hard to find.
Climbers & Glory ShotsExternal Links Images
|
Northern Sawatch Range
