Mount Neva Climber's Log

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SarahThompson

SarahThompson - Jun 8, 2008 4:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2008

Juliet  Sucess!

The guidebooks call this a moderate snow climb of around 40 degrees. We consistently measured 45+ on the upper portion, with a maximum of just over 50. Juliet seems to be a little steeper than usual this year. After the climb, we continued on to Jasper, UN 12660 & "Skyscraper Peak" before descending to our car shuttle vehicle at Hessie (started the hike at 4th of July). The trail back to Hessie resembled a creek more than a trail.

Dan Leonhard

Dan Leonhard - Sep 17, 2007 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2007

North Ridge  Sucess!

The rock quality is supurb on this mountain. I had a great time!

bigwilly

bigwilly - Aug 11, 2007 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007

neva  Sucess!

climbed it via the west ridge from columbine. Steep, but wonderful.

miztflip

miztflip - Aug 5, 2007 8:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007

North Ridge  Sucess!

Nice short hike to the ridge. The climbing was short and sweet. I wish the actual climbing had been alot longer as it's only about 30 feet of class 4. Continued on to Jasper and down it's East Ridge

Foxy Long Bottoms

Foxy Long Bottoms - Aug 1, 2007 10:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2007

North Ridge  Sucess!

Fun route.

Mots010

Mots010 - Jun 3, 2007 8:20 pm Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2007

4th of July to Neva summit  Sucess!

Beautiful day for my first trip to the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Was part of my CMC Basic Mountaineering School group outing. Climbed Juliet Couloir with fantastic firm snow which was great for the crampons. Our group decided to forgo Jasper Peak as the prospect of postholing on the bushwack descent did not sound appealing.

boisedoc

boisedoc - Dec 19, 2006 6:01 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1989

scenic area  Sucess!

real nice area. Hiked in from the west

WestEndAllStar

WestEndAllStar - Aug 15, 2006 2:27 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006

Route Climbed: 4th-of-July to North Ridge  Sucess!

The north ridge of Neva is definitely a good climb. I found the climbing to be a good challenge, although we never clearly identified the 2 crux sections, at least as described in the Colorado Scrambles book. Overall, a fun, challenging climb.

Gahugafuga

Gahugafuga - Jul 24, 2006 2:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006

North Ridge  Sucess!

What a fun scramble. Some nice exposure and good rock the whole way. Descended the large gully south of Neva to the two unnamed lakes. A few glissades were found along the way, even at the end of July.

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 4, 2005 12:44 am

Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: Jan '04  Sucess!

Great winter outing. 4th class, and if you are lucky....tons of wind. Pretty nice snowshoe in from the Grand County side.

rockcairn

rockcairn - Aug 22, 2005 12:58 pm

Route Climbed: NorthWest Ridge Date Climbed: August 21, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed from the Junco/Columbine lake TH. No snow but soggy/boggy conditions around Columbine Lake. With all the recent rain, the wildflowers were excellent.

edlins

edlins - Jun 26, 2005 9:00 pm

Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: June 25, 2005  Sucess!

Incredible scramble-fest! We started at the 4th of July TH, hiked to the North Ridge, scrambled to Neva, hiked to Jasper, scrambled Jasper's Northeast Ridge to Points 12068 and 12047, and glissaded down to the unnamed lake at 11550. We stuck very close to the ridge which made for many 4th - low 5th class sections. This is a great scramble route circling a beautiful basin with lots of time above or near 12000 feet.

Zeke

Zeke - Apr 13, 2005 12:48 am

Route Climbed: Juliet Couloir Date Climbed: 1999  Sucess!

Fun snow climb, but short

Colorado Susan

Colorado Susan - Mar 16, 2005 12:23 am

Route Climbed: Desdemona Couloir up Neva, then traversed to Jasper Date Climbed: June 13, 2004  Sucess!

Start early if you do Neva and Jasper. Better safe than running from a storm.

georgbetsy

georgbetsy - Sep 11, 2004 8:24 pm

Route Climbed: East of Juliet/Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: September 11, 2004  Sucess!

We climbed Mount Neva today. Me, my wife, and a friend who does not have much mountaineering experience. Needless to say, we found out why Neva is not climbed by more people. It is a great climb and a beautiful mountain, but it is tough!!. We started from the Fourth of July trailhead. Our goal was to head to the basin from which the colouirs can be reached and choose between Phoebe, Desdemona, Juliet or the North Slopes. However, due to the snow last weekend, the conditions were rather icy and difficult (without gear). We did not like the scree on Phoebe. Desdemona and Juliet looked very icy, and the bottom of the North Slopes consisted of a thin layer of snow, that was laying on the ice covered rocks. We saw some old tracks going up slightly east of Juliet, going towards a faint ledge system that crosses the whole face (passes the top of Juliet) and reaches the summit ridge several hundred feet to the west of the summit.

We started to climb towards the ledge, but the slope became too steep/icy to tackle with plain hiking shoes, and we were forced approximately 50feet west, which lead us towards a break in the cliffs above.

We had to climb several 5.2-5.4 moves and finally reached the ledge that we were aiming for. To reach the summit was fairly easy from here.



On the way down we decided to take the Northwest Ridge (class 2). If I would have read the summit log earlier, I would have opted for the traverse to Mount Jasper.



-- Great climb, but be prepared.

However, I do not think that crampons would have helped us much. The ice on the rocks was barely a millimeter or so thick, not enough for crampons to hold well, but plenty to make an ascent with hiking boots tough.

Ryan Kowalski

Ryan Kowalski - Apr 19, 2004 4:05 pm

Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: June 23, 2002  Sucess!

This ridge is great! A beautiful approach hike as well. I loved the alpine forget-me-nots on the way up. I think this is one of my favorite all-time climbs. However, DO NOT descend the coulouirs unless you have the proper gear. A fit of insanity led us down a coulouri with CRAPPY snow conditions. A near-death experience for me and my partners.

CharlesD

CharlesD - Mar 18, 2004 10:27 am

Route Climbed: 4th-of-July to North Ridge Date Climbed: August 10, 2003  Sucess!

My first experience above 10,000'. Wow!



Spectacular in every way. Day hike up to Lake Dorothy turned into a 4th class scramble-fest along this exciting and unknown (to us) ridge. Descended via the SW ridge, a partially snowed gully and a pair of unnamed lakes back to the 4th of July Mine.

JonBradford

JonBradford - Nov 25, 2003 11:49 pm

Route Climbed: Jasper Peak Traverse (from Storm Gulch) Date Climbed: September 7, 2003  Sucess!

Neva is a place to enjoy. The connecting ridge with Jasper is rather enjoyable (although it never gets real difficult it looks challenging from some vantages). I miss lounging above Lake Dorthey on Neva's summit... Dogs Sopris and Raymond were along for the ride.

Jon Bradford

Jim Clarke

Jim Clarke - Sep 30, 2003 10:09 am

Route Climbed: Ski Descent of Juliet Coulior Date Climbed: 7/1/98  Sucess!

Great Spring Ski Descent in the Colorado High Country. Perfect corn conditions. If you get a camping permit and set a high camp, Juliet provides a great variety of lines to ski.

Nelson

Nelson - Aug 29, 2003 8:12 am

Route Climbed: Juliet Couloir traverse to Jasper Peak Date Climbed: June 1979  Sucess!

My CMC Basic Mountaineering School graduation climb. The leader threw in a twist at the meeting place by announcing we would do a planned "forced bivy". After the climb we would spend the night out with only the stuff in our daypacks. Putting your feet into your pack is a good thing.

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