Diesel - Aug 24, 2020 9:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2020
What an amazing climb!
Last year I confused Mt Johnson with the unnamed peak to the South of Treasure Col. After a grueling and dangerous ice climb on a complete frozen mountain, from Treasure Lakes to the top of Treasure Col in 2019, I ended up on what I thought it was Mt Johnson, the peak on the left/ South of the Col. When I looked behind me and saw Mt Johnson in all it's might, my jaw dropped. I got mad at myself for not doing my homework, I instantly lost my mojo and went down the East side of the mountain flowing the drainage back to South Lake. This year however, I was determined to be successful (no snow anywhere.) I hiked up to Gilbert via the Johnson drainage and from Gilbert I traversed back to Johnson. The entire time I was freaking out, looking back to Johnson and not seeing a class 3 to make it to the summit. I was agonizing all the way up to Gilbert and over to the traverse to Johnson, checking the mountain and tripping over rocks for not looking where I was stepping, and not seeing my way up. Also from my point of view I could not see a way of traversing from the Apex of Johnson to the summit itself ( I worried for nothing since there is an easy way of going over and not a drop as I imagined.) Once on the edgy traverse and then on the mountain, the way up is just a delightful class 3. Not a class 3 for beginnings, like Middle Palisade, but on the other hand not Mount Russell either. Following the path of least resistance, with only a couple airy/difficult moves, I made it up to the top as clouds started gathering above me. The famous edge knife is a beautiful thing, but nothing dangerous. Mount Johnson earned my respect; to me, the best class 3 so far. I came down the back of the mountain (going back the way I came over the traverse would have been not worth the effort.) It took 1.5 hours from Gilbert to Johnson. Going down I could see the clouds were getting darker and by 1:30 PM I felt the first rain drops on my hands. I was exactly where the trail becomes visible at the approach to Treasure Lakes on the West side, where the vegetation starts. Once I passed the lakes the thunder started seriously and I was so happy I wasn't up on the mountain anymore. The entire trip took exactly 10 hours from car to car, including all of the breaks (4:30 from South Lake to Gilbert, 1:30 the traverse from the summit of Gilbert to the summit of Johnson, 3 hours from the summit of Johnson to the parking lot.) Total distance was 12.25 miles.
wmolland - Aug 12, 2020 7:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2020
From Treasure Lakes
Getting to the col was no fun at all, but the route on the ridge was great! A fun 3rd class romp to the top.
Donno - Jul 2, 2020 7:01 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2020
NW Ridge
10h r/t from S. Lake TH with Rico. Climbed firm snow up to Treasure Col then followed ridge to summit. Down south side.
Bill562 - Jul 3, 2017 2:10 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2017
SE Slopes
Team of three as a day hike
oliverkalt - May 14, 2017 7:19 pm Date Climbed: May 13, 2017
N couloir
Skiing the N couloir. Actually turned a bit scary as I was too early in the day and the couloir had not not yet developed corn and stayed icy. Should have waited at least another hour.
tbaranski - Aug 19, 2016 12:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2016
Good scramble
A good scramble up the NW ridge from Treasure Col, though I found this page's description to be somewhat misleading. You aren't on the spine of a continuous, well-defined ridge the entire time. It actually flattens out for a good while in the middle of the traverse and becomes more class-2ish. But the upper third is pretty sweet stuff.
Good to see a summit register more than a decade old (1975 in this case).
mengbo - Jul 25, 2016 9:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2016
from Treasure Lake
2nd class talus slog. it took us 2 hours to get to the summit from Treasure Lake.
Daria - Aug 6, 2015 12:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2015
From Gilbert
Thunderstorms abound in the Sierra, we managed to bag 3 peaks this day with Peak 12,650ft. and Gilbert, the scramble up Johnson was very solid and fun with a short knife edge finish.
Deb - Jul 22, 2015 10:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2015
From Gilbert
Began ascent up west slope then got onto NW ridge. Fun fun!!! Managed to beat the storm off all 3 peaks and enjoyed a little hail shower through the morraine.
This was a very fun scramble with a few airy moves. It's every bit as good as the page author claims, and it is true that you never have to leave the ridgeline.
bechtt - Aug 24, 2013 11:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013
Grand Loop
Day 3 of the alt Sierra Challenge 2013. While the hard core Challenge nuts crossed the crest at Echo Col and head for bad weather on the Black Divide, seven of us (Laura, Joan, Tommey, Carol, Jeff, Jim, and I) headed for Ski Mountaineers peak first followed by Mt Thompson via its tricky but highly satisfying north ridge. Once on top, Tommey continued on to Pt Powell while the others returned the way they came. I continued the grand loop by dropping down Thompson's horrible SE chute and climbing the only weakness (a class 2 chute) on Mt Gilbert's west side. Bypassing the summit due to bad weather (and having climbed it before), I climbed over Mt Johnson (with thunderstorms both north and south of me) before returning via the Treasure Lakes basin. Pictures & Story
LincolnB - Aug 13, 2012 7:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2012
Southeast Slope
Climbed this as an alternate (easier) peak on day 4 of Burd's 2012 Sierra Challenge. Went up the sandy chute on the southeast slope -- described as class 2 by Secor, but the top 100-200 feet seemed to me to be class 3. Easy climbing but no exposure. I was the 6th person to sign the register this year.
Dave S - Aug 8, 2012 3:20 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011
Northwest Ridge
Scrambled up the Northwest Ridge with Amy. Great route!
mrchad9 - Jun 21, 2012 4:02 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012
From Bishop Lake
Over from Bishop Lake to Treasure Lake and up the east ridge. I do not recommend this route.
The skeeters devoured me at Treasure Lakes, the sun-cups, kicked my ass, but the ridge was worth it. The ridge is harder 3rd, sometimes very exposed, and requires good route finding. I descended the Southeast Slopes for an easy quick escape.
Brian Kalet - Jun 2, 2010 6:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2008
SE Slope
Day hike.
boyblue - Aug 14, 2009 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 1985
Northeast Ridge and Chute
From Treasure Lakes. I was aiming for the quickest way out of all those boulders, so I chose the northeast ridge. Fun scrambling near the top.
Bob Burd - Sep 8, 2008 5:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008
Hurd -> Trapezoid -> Johnson
Day 6 of the 2008 Sierra Challenge. Climbed the East Face of Hurd in the morning with Brice W, then traversed to Trapezoid via the South Ridge of Hurd and Trapezoid's NE Ridge (the South Ridge was a better scramble). Met up with Adam J on Trapezoid and traversed the crest to Johnson. Fun day. Trip Report
Diesel - Aug 24, 2020 9:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2020
What an amazing climb!Last year I confused Mt Johnson with the unnamed peak to the South of Treasure Col. After a grueling and dangerous ice climb on a complete frozen mountain, from Treasure Lakes to the top of Treasure Col in 2019, I ended up on what I thought it was Mt Johnson, the peak on the left/ South of the Col. When I looked behind me and saw Mt Johnson in all it's might, my jaw dropped. I got mad at myself for not doing my homework, I instantly lost my mojo and went down the East side of the mountain flowing the drainage back to South Lake. This year however, I was determined to be successful (no snow anywhere.) I hiked up to Gilbert via the Johnson drainage and from Gilbert I traversed back to Johnson. The entire time I was freaking out, looking back to Johnson and not seeing a class 3 to make it to the summit. I was agonizing all the way up to Gilbert and over to the traverse to Johnson, checking the mountain and tripping over rocks for not looking where I was stepping, and not seeing my way up. Also from my point of view I could not see a way of traversing from the Apex of Johnson to the summit itself ( I worried for nothing since there is an easy way of going over and not a drop as I imagined.) Once on the edgy traverse and then on the mountain, the way up is just a delightful class 3. Not a class 3 for beginnings, like Middle Palisade, but on the other hand not Mount Russell either. Following the path of least resistance, with only a couple airy/difficult moves, I made it up to the top as clouds started gathering above me. The famous edge knife is a beautiful thing, but nothing dangerous. Mount Johnson earned my respect; to me, the best class 3 so far. I came down the back of the mountain (going back the way I came over the traverse would have been not worth the effort.) It took 1.5 hours from Gilbert to Johnson. Going down I could see the clouds were getting darker and by 1:30 PM I felt the first rain drops on my hands. I was exactly where the trail becomes visible at the approach to Treasure Lakes on the West side, where the vegetation starts. Once I passed the lakes the thunder started seriously and I was so happy I wasn't up on the mountain anymore. The entire trip took exactly 10 hours from car to car, including all of the breaks (4:30 from South Lake to Gilbert, 1:30 the traverse from the summit of Gilbert to the summit of Johnson, 3 hours from the summit of Johnson to the parking lot.) Total distance was 12.25 miles.
wmolland - Aug 12, 2020 7:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2020
From Treasure LakesGetting to the col was no fun at all, but the route on the ridge was great! A fun 3rd class romp to the top.
Donno - Jul 2, 2020 7:01 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2020
NW Ridge10h r/t from S. Lake TH with Rico. Climbed firm snow up to Treasure Col then followed ridge to summit. Down south side.
Romain - Jul 19, 2019 3:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2019
North RIdgeNow that is a fantastic route! Trip report.
Bill562 - Jul 3, 2017 2:10 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2017
SE SlopesTeam of three as a day hike
oliverkalt - May 14, 2017 7:19 pm Date Climbed: May 13, 2017
N couloirSkiing the N couloir. Actually turned a bit scary as I was too early in the day and the couloir had not not yet developed corn and stayed icy. Should have waited at least another hour.
tbaranski - Aug 19, 2016 12:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2016
Good scrambleA good scramble up the NW ridge from Treasure Col, though I found this page's description to be somewhat misleading. You aren't on the spine of a continuous, well-defined ridge the entire time. It actually flattens out for a good while in the middle of the traverse and becomes more class-2ish. But the upper third is pretty sweet stuff.
Good to see a summit register more than a decade old (1975 in this case).
mengbo - Jul 25, 2016 9:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2016
from Treasure Lake2nd class talus slog. it took us 2 hours to get to the summit from Treasure Lake.
Daria - Aug 6, 2015 12:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2015
From GilbertThunderstorms abound in the Sierra, we managed to bag 3 peaks this day with Peak 12,650ft. and Gilbert, the scramble up Johnson was very solid and fun with a short knife edge finish.
Deb - Jul 22, 2015 10:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2015
From GilbertBegan ascent up west slope then got onto NW ridge. Fun fun!!! Managed to beat the storm off all 3 peaks and enjoyed a little hail shower through the morraine.
CWessels - Jul 18, 2015 6:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2015
NW RidgeThis was a very fun scramble with a few airy moves. It's every bit as good as the page author claims, and it is true that you never have to leave the ridgeline.
bechtt - Aug 24, 2013 11:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013
Grand LoopDay 3 of the alt Sierra Challenge 2013. While the hard core Challenge nuts crossed the crest at Echo Col and head for bad weather on the Black Divide, seven of us (Laura, Joan, Tommey, Carol, Jeff, Jim, and I) headed for Ski Mountaineers peak first followed by Mt Thompson via its tricky but highly satisfying north ridge. Once on top, Tommey continued on to Pt Powell while the others returned the way they came. I continued the grand loop by dropping down Thompson's horrible SE chute and climbing the only weakness (a class 2 chute) on Mt Gilbert's west side. Bypassing the summit due to bad weather (and having climbed it before), I climbed over Mt Johnson (with thunderstorms both north and south of me) before returning via the Treasure Lakes basin. Pictures & Story
LincolnB - Aug 13, 2012 7:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2012
Southeast SlopeClimbed this as an alternate (easier) peak on day 4 of Burd's 2012 Sierra Challenge. Went up the sandy chute on the southeast slope -- described as class 2 by Secor, but the top 100-200 feet seemed to me to be class 3. Easy climbing but no exposure. I was the 6th person to sign the register this year.
Dave S - Aug 8, 2012 3:20 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011
Northwest RidgeScrambled up the Northwest Ridge with Amy. Great route!
mrchad9 - Jun 21, 2012 4:02 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012
From Bishop LakeOver from Bishop Lake to Treasure Lake and up the east ridge. I do not recommend this route.
seano - Jul 29, 2011 5:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2011
Traverse from GilbertA fun scramble from Treasure Col after doing Gilbert's north couloir. Suncups weren't as bad as I feared on the way down. Trip report
Hyadventure - Jul 25, 2011 5:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011
Northwest RidgeThe skeeters devoured me at Treasure Lakes, the sun-cups, kicked my ass, but the ridge was worth it. The ridge is harder 3rd, sometimes very exposed, and requires good route finding. I descended the Southeast Slopes for an easy quick escape.
Brian Kalet - Jun 2, 2010 6:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2008
SE SlopeDay hike.
boyblue - Aug 14, 2009 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 1985
Northeast Ridge and ChuteFrom Treasure Lakes. I was aiming for the quickest way out of all those boulders, so I chose the northeast ridge. Fun scrambling near the top.
Bob Burd - Sep 8, 2008 5:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008
Hurd -> Trapezoid -> JohnsonDay 6 of the 2008 Sierra Challenge. Climbed the East Face of Hurd in the morning with Brice W, then traversed to Trapezoid via the South Ridge of Hurd and Trapezoid's NE Ridge (the South Ridge was a better scramble). Met up with Adam J on Trapezoid and traversed the crest to Johnson. Fun day. Trip Report