Snowslogger - Dec 7, 2023 2:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 1982
Off-route Sketchfest
One of my first climbs. The mountain was socked in and I mistakenly went more or less directly up from Milk Lake past a spot a probably couldn't downclimb, and to the top. Went down the north ridge, which was much better. Probably not the best plan overall for solo novice climber, but it worked out and lessons were learned.
mandrake - Jun 22, 2015 6:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2015
North Ridge
Ascended Bretherton via the south end of the Milk Lake cirque in 2008, but went up a much better route this time around via the north ridge. From Upper Lena Lake note the series of forested/talus ramps leading upwards climber's left of the obvious rocky dome (e.g. terminus of Mt. Bretherton's northern ridge). Follow ramps upwards onto the north ridge and scramble south to the summit. Couple catwalk spots along the way. On reaching the summit block, drop down a bit on the right side and push your way up through vegetation on a goat trail to regain the ridge. Surprisingly good rock.
Ian Culhane - Jan 23, 2015 2:57 am Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013
A bit sketchy, but still a great climb
Approached in the morning after spending the night at the North end of Upper Lena Lake. After reaching Milk Lake via an interesting route (we took a "shortcut", but climbing over some rocky ridges instead of first backtracking around Upper Lena to get to the standard trail). At Milk Lake we put on crampons to get around the lake (still frozen) and up the steep snow slope. Once a the crux (Fairly exposed class 3, but easily doable if you take your time), it was only about 15 minutes to the top. Great view!
bmwboarder7 - Jul 28, 2014 1:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007
Made it
Gorgeous hike up to the summit after staying at Lena Lake. Made it past the hairy exposed part, but left my wife behind (bad move). The alpine lakes and scenery was very awesome.
I had originally signed the log years ago, but I guess that climber's log got deleted with the original page. Too bad. Still good memories of the hike though, 7 years later.
olympicmarmot - Jan 29, 2014 4:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2008
fun and challenging first climb
I was camped at upper lena for a week doing revege work for the park service. On our off day another worker and I went up the south east notch route. It wasnt as steep as it looked from milk lake, but still plenty steep for my first climb. We had a little trouble figuring out how to proceed past the notch, which requires a quick scramble up and over a section of rock you cant see past until your on top of it. From there, its a piece of cake up to the summit, which commands a very impressive view down to the lake. On the way back, descending back down to the snowfield from the notch was slow going. Just sketchy enough to make it a good challenge. Lots of loose rock.
gimpilator - Sep 27, 2012 1:29 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2012
Too Loose
After climbing Lena East Peak and Lena, we tried the standard gully route described in the OMCG. Made it to about 5400 feet before we decided it was too loose for our tastes. I believe we were almost past the crux but at the time, it wasn't worth it.
awilsondc - Aug 15, 2012 10:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2009
Route Climbed: North Ridge
It's a bummer the original page was deleted. I summited this in 2009, but had no views due to fog. I took the North Ridge up, which is a fun scramble, with one difficult move of about 15 feet consisting of skirting across a narrow ledge while hugging a cliff face. Great scramble from Upper Lena Lake. I did Mount Lena the next morning before heading back.
olymountainman - Jul 1, 2012 1:56 am Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2011
Good climb off the standard route
made our own tricky little class 3-4 route, fun stuff, except the a-hole giant goat above us kicking rocks down.good views.
Snowslogger - Dec 7, 2023 2:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 1982
Off-route SketchfestOne of my first climbs. The mountain was socked in and I mistakenly went more or less directly up from Milk Lake past a spot a probably couldn't downclimb, and to the top. Went down the north ridge, which was much better. Probably not the best plan overall for solo novice climber, but it worked out and lessons were learned.
mandrake - Jun 22, 2015 6:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2015
North RidgeAscended Bretherton via the south end of the Milk Lake cirque in 2008, but went up a much better route this time around via the north ridge. From Upper Lena Lake note the series of forested/talus ramps leading upwards climber's left of the obvious rocky dome (e.g. terminus of Mt. Bretherton's northern ridge). Follow ramps upwards onto the north ridge and scramble south to the summit. Couple catwalk spots along the way. On reaching the summit block, drop down a bit on the right side and push your way up through vegetation on a goat trail to regain the ridge. Surprisingly good rock.
Ian Culhane - Jan 23, 2015 2:57 am Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013
A bit sketchy, but still a great climbApproached in the morning after spending the night at the North end of Upper Lena Lake. After reaching Milk Lake via an interesting route (we took a "shortcut", but climbing over some rocky ridges instead of first backtracking around Upper Lena to get to the standard trail). At Milk Lake we put on crampons to get around the lake (still frozen) and up the steep snow slope. Once a the crux (Fairly exposed class 3, but easily doable if you take your time), it was only about 15 minutes to the top. Great view!
bmwboarder7 - Jul 28, 2014 1:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007
Made itGorgeous hike up to the summit after staying at Lena Lake. Made it past the hairy exposed part, but left my wife behind (bad move). The alpine lakes and scenery was very awesome.
I had originally signed the log years ago, but I guess that climber's log got deleted with the original page. Too bad. Still good memories of the hike though, 7 years later.
olympicmarmot - Jan 29, 2014 4:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2008
fun and challenging first climbI was camped at upper lena for a week doing revege work for the park service. On our off day another worker and I went up the south east notch route. It wasnt as steep as it looked from milk lake, but still plenty steep for my first climb. We had a little trouble figuring out how to proceed past the notch, which requires a quick scramble up and over a section of rock you cant see past until your on top of it. From there, its a piece of cake up to the summit, which commands a very impressive view down to the lake. On the way back, descending back down to the snowfield from the notch was slow going. Just sketchy enough to make it a good challenge. Lots of loose rock.
gimpilator - Sep 27, 2012 1:29 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2012
Too LooseAfter climbing Lena East Peak and Lena, we tried the standard gully route described in the OMCG. Made it to about 5400 feet before we decided it was too loose for our tastes. I believe we were almost past the crux but at the time, it wasn't worth it.
awilsondc - Aug 15, 2012 10:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2009
Route Climbed: North RidgeIt's a bummer the original page was deleted. I summited this in 2009, but had no views due to fog. I took the North Ridge up, which is a fun scramble, with one difficult move of about 15 feet consisting of skirting across a narrow ledge while hugging a cliff face. Great scramble from Upper Lena Lake. I did Mount Lena the next morning before heading back.
olymountainman - Jul 1, 2012 1:56 am Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2011
Good climb off the standard routemade our own tricky little class 3-4 route, fun stuff, except the a-hole giant goat above us kicking rocks down.good views.