Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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32.93147°N / 78.45680°E |
County:
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Ladakh |
Activities:
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Hiking, Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed |
Season:
|
Summer, Fall |
|
Elevation:
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21801 ft / 6645 m |
|
Overview
A view of Mentok range from some way above our high camp
Lungser is one of the highest peaks in Ladakh and THE highest peak in the Tsomoriri area in Ladakh. It is 6667m high and along with Chumser it forms a twin peak system that determines the weather conditions in and around the Tsomoriri area which has some stunning relief features, flora and fauna in its vicinity.
Like Chumser, Lungser is gigantic and has quite a few technical sections enroute the summit. We had to set a base camp higher than the EBC and a sort of a high camp at 6100m too. Most foreign expeditions return from the BC because they underestimate the efforts that Lungser requires. Only a patient, persistent and seasoned veteran will make it to the summit of Lungser and even that depends on the window of good weather that the mountain has to offer - we had to return just 100m short of the summit because of a "white-out", and that within 48 hours of summitting Chumser, just north of Lungser.
Getting There
48 hours of "doing nothing" in Leh is a MUST, if one is flying in from Delhi or elsewhere. OPT not to - AND PAY FOR IT DEARLY by compromising your chances of summit. You have been warned.Leh is 3500m high and is unlike any hillstation. There are no trees and the air is dry. Since one is only bound to go higher, 48 hours is must to acclimatise.
Tsomoriri is a 7 hour drive from Leh
The Korzok village and the Mentok range are on the west end of the lake
Chumser, Lungser and Churchu (4700m) campsite are on the eastern side of the lake.
The base camp at 5650m is a days hike away from Churchu.
A high camp at 6100m between Chumser and Lungser is recommended.
Two hours or so short of the summit
Red Tape
A permit from IMF is must to avoid unnecessary trysts with the Army or Border Police.An LTA (Ladakh Trekkers Association) fee is mandatorily collected from hikers, trekkers, mountaineers and tourists alike.
An innerline permit is necessary and can be acquired from the office of the Comissioners of Police.
PM for more info. I'll point you in the right direction.
Camping
1. A day or two in Churchu2. A couple of days in Base camp
3. A couple of days to a week in a high camp depending on weather conditions - you cannot just hope to summit as soon as you set up a high camp. Expect lot of bad weather days at 20000 ft.
External Links
A blog about an attempt on Lungser