Climbed September 1976: Luna was the southern anchor of an enchainment that stated near the Canadian border and followed the Redoubt high route to the Pickets and then south via the Luna Lake High Route. We had climbed up the evening before in the dark and camped on the false summit. The next day when the sun came up, the mountains were lit one by one starting with Mt. Rainier over 100 miles away. My friend Gary and I then decided to touch the main summit of Luna. We descended on the south side of the ridge to a ledge which we followed to just below the summit and then went straight up to the main summit.
08/24/2016 Climbed Luna Peak with Scott, Ben, Jeff.
Matt Lemke - Aug 22, 2016 2:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2016
Via access creek on a full pickets traverse
Shitty approach but the summit was incredible. Looking at Fury was awe inspiring. Ended up traversing to east fury the same day and camping on its summit that night.
seano - Jul 15, 2015 11:32 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2015
Access Creek
A brutal 18h50 dayhike, much harder than Challenger or the southern Pickets, partly because of the long slog up Big Beaver, but mostly because there is absolutely no use trail up Access Creek, and some of the bushwhacking is grim. I found a slightly-tricky log crossing that turned out to be just upstream of Access Creek, but the creek junction is essentially invisible from the other side of the Big Beaver. I really want to do Fury, but will probably have to wait a year for memories of the approach to fade. Trip report.
tseren - Jan 5, 2013 6:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2011
what a view
such a beautiful view. and our camp at luna col was incredible! came in and out hannagen pass and easy ridge. up challenger the day before. this is one of my favorite places in the entire world. i will be returning for a full traverse soon, and am dreaming of making it in there in the winter.
Buckaroo - Nov 3, 2012 2:32 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2005
The Definition of Wilderness
Solo to recon the Northern Picket Traverse. Summited Luna then traversed to the base of Fury. Approached by Access Creek, full on bushwack.
Diggler - Sep 21, 2012 12:33 am Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2012
WORK
This was the most arduous ascent of any peak I've done without hiring mules or porters. On a peak LESS THAN 9k'! Everything they say about the views of the Pickets is true, though. North Cascades mountaineering is a peculiar thing, for sure...
69:22, c2c (I didn't use the boat ferry). Day 1 (started from the parking lot @ 14.16): car to Luna Camp; Day 2: Luna Camp to col (phenomenal bivy!!!); Day 3: col to summit (summit traverse is exposed 3rd class) to 39-mile Camp (ouch); Day 4: 39-mile Camp (7.04) to car (11.38).
Was it a monumental pain-in-the-ass? Yes. Was it worth it? Yes (at least once).
YEM - Aug 11, 2012 5:04 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2012
Very Rewarding
This climb lived up to its reputation for tough bushwhacking, swarms of bugs, wildlife, solitude and spectacular views. I'd recommend footwear for the creek crossing. We couldn't find any logs spanning Big Beaver Creek. Thanks Josh for a great climb!
Josh Lewis - Aug 11, 2012 12:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2012
Fantastic!
The views did not disappoint! I cannot argue with the claim "Best Views in Washington". I will say it was not the most beautiful thing I've ever seen, but keep in mind I consider August to be one of the least scenic months. So certainly for the month of August this is the best you can get anywhere in the state. If it was covered in fresh snow I would probably say the most beautiful thing I've ever seen. Anyways, the creek crossing was the crux for me. The log seems to be sunk in making the crossing require us to take off our shoes. The summit scramble was fun which was class 3 and a bit exposed. It's not as bad as it looks when you first arrive on the false summit. Over all this was a great experience climbing this peak. Would I recommend it? Yes! But not for the weak or the timid.
PeakBeggar - Apr 1, 2012 11:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011
Checked it off!
camped on the col in a slick bivy spot overlooking the southern pickets. Trip was from hannegan pass - perfect pass - challenger - luna, then back out in 8 days.
nickmech - Dec 29, 2008 5:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008
remote high camp
After bailing on Challenger our route took us thru Luna cirque to Luna col bivy site. Easy rock scramble to top of Luna. Long, long way back to Beaver Pass trail and boat taxi. Take this trip for unforgetable views and remoteness.
BCJ - Aug 26, 2008 2:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2006
Best view in the NW
Climbed via Access Creek. The bushwhacking through devil's club and slide alder was arduous, but well worth the effort. We did the trip from Big Beaver Landing to the summit and back in just over two days...it was as physically-challenging of an adventure as I've been on.
Norman - Aug 13, 2008 1:40 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008
WOW!
Amazing. Came in Eiley Wiley Ridge, planning to do Challenger first, but missed out, went into Luna Cirque and summited. Spent night at Luna Col and out, decending wrong drainage, but toughed the bush in McMillan drainage for day and half. Very remote.
danman3156 - Aug 28, 2007 6:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2007
Amazing
Scrambled up from luna pass. Great summit views of the whole pickett range. Great reward for surviving the epic approach.
ibndalight - Aug 28, 2007 5:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2007
The Tower Over The Pickets
Climbed the south west ridge all the way from luna lake to the peak in one day it was a hard long day after many hard long days to get into that area of the pickets mostly 4th class rock with some low fifth class near the top
Approached over Whatcom Peak via Luna Cirque. Views were as good as advertised. The true summit is reached over somewhat unpleasant fourth class balanced choss. We had brought and happily used a 40 meter rope and a light alpine rack for the scramble to the true summit.
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 15th, 2003
Thanks to Jim Brisbine I was able to climb to the true summit of Luna Peak. My good friend Eric Cook climbed the final pitches free (actually it was a traverse) with Jim leading the way. I waited with John until Jim was back at which point we all roped up and he took us back over. We never "needed" the rope, but it made it a lot more enjoyable. Great weather and a great group of guys. I would love to go back, but it is one hell of a long hike trip and I am still tired...
anthony_mendoza - Oct 3, 2023 6:09 am
Came in from the NorthClimbed September 1976: Luna was the southern anchor of an enchainment that stated near the Canadian border and followed the Redoubt high route to the Pickets and then south via the Luna Lake High Route. We had climbed up the evening before in the dark and camped on the false summit. The next day when the sun came up, the mountains were lit one by one starting with Mt. Rainier over 100 miles away. My friend Gary and I then decided to touch the main summit of Luna. We descended on the south side of the ridge to a ledge which we followed to just below the summit and then went straight up to the main summit.
Mooner - Apr 4, 2017 8:19 pm
Up I Go08/24/2016 Climbed Luna Peak with Scott, Ben, Jeff.
Matt Lemke - Aug 22, 2016 2:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2016
Via access creek on a full pickets traverseShitty approach but the summit was incredible. Looking at Fury was awe inspiring. Ended up traversing to east fury the same day and camping on its summit that night.
seano - Jul 15, 2015 11:32 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2015
Access CreekA brutal 18h50 dayhike, much harder than Challenger or the southern Pickets, partly because of the long slog up Big Beaver, but mostly because there is absolutely no use trail up Access Creek, and some of the bushwhacking is grim. I found a slightly-tricky log crossing that turned out to be just upstream of Access Creek, but the creek junction is essentially invisible from the other side of the Big Beaver. I really want to do Fury, but will probably have to wait a year for memories of the approach to fade. Trip report.
tseren - Jan 5, 2013 6:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2011
what a viewsuch a beautiful view. and our camp at luna col was incredible! came in and out hannagen pass and easy ridge. up challenger the day before. this is one of my favorite places in the entire world. i will be returning for a full traverse soon, and am dreaming of making it in there in the winter.
Buckaroo - Nov 3, 2012 2:32 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2005
The Definition of WildernessSolo to recon the Northern Picket Traverse. Summited Luna then traversed to the base of Fury. Approached by Access Creek, full on bushwack.
Diggler - Sep 21, 2012 12:33 am Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2012
WORKThis was the most arduous ascent of any peak I've done without hiring mules or porters. On a peak LESS THAN 9k'! Everything they say about the views of the Pickets is true, though. North Cascades mountaineering is a peculiar thing, for sure...
69:22, c2c (I didn't use the boat ferry). Day 1 (started from the parking lot @ 14.16): car to Luna Camp; Day 2: Luna Camp to col (phenomenal bivy!!!); Day 3: col to summit (summit traverse is exposed 3rd class) to 39-mile Camp (ouch); Day 4: 39-mile Camp (7.04) to car (11.38).
Was it a monumental pain-in-the-ass? Yes. Was it worth it? Yes (at least once).
YEM - Aug 11, 2012 5:04 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2012
Very RewardingThis climb lived up to its reputation for tough bushwhacking, swarms of bugs, wildlife, solitude and spectacular views. I'd recommend footwear for the creek crossing. We couldn't find any logs spanning Big Beaver Creek. Thanks Josh for a great climb!
Josh Lewis - Aug 11, 2012 12:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2012
Fantastic!The views did not disappoint! I cannot argue with the claim "Best Views in Washington". I will say it was not the most beautiful thing I've ever seen, but keep in mind I consider August to be one of the least scenic months. So certainly for the month of August this is the best you can get anywhere in the state. If it was covered in fresh snow I would probably say the most beautiful thing I've ever seen. Anyways, the creek crossing was the crux for me. The log seems to be sunk in making the crossing require us to take off our shoes. The summit scramble was fun which was class 3 and a bit exposed. It's not as bad as it looks when you first arrive on the false summit. Over all this was a great experience climbing this peak. Would I recommend it? Yes! But not for the weak or the timid.
PeakBeggar - Apr 1, 2012 11:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011
Checked it off!camped on the col in a slick bivy spot overlooking the southern pickets. Trip was from hannegan pass - perfect pass - challenger - luna, then back out in 8 days.
nickmech - Dec 29, 2008 5:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008
remote high campAfter bailing on Challenger our route took us thru Luna cirque to Luna col bivy site. Easy rock scramble to top of Luna. Long, long way back to Beaver Pass trail and boat taxi. Take this trip for unforgetable views and remoteness.
BCJ - Aug 26, 2008 2:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2006
Best view in the NWClimbed via Access Creek. The bushwhacking through devil's club and slide alder was arduous, but well worth the effort. We did the trip from Big Beaver Landing to the summit and back in just over two days...it was as physically-challenging of an adventure as I've been on.
Norman - Aug 13, 2008 1:40 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008
WOW!Amazing. Came in Eiley Wiley Ridge, planning to do Challenger first, but missed out, went into Luna Cirque and summited. Spent night at Luna Col and out, decending wrong drainage, but toughed the bush in McMillan drainage for day and half. Very remote.
danman3156 - Aug 28, 2007 6:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2007
AmazingScrambled up from luna pass. Great summit views of the whole pickett range. Great reward for surviving the epic approach.
ibndalight - Aug 28, 2007 5:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2007
The Tower Over The PicketsClimbed the south west ridge all the way from luna lake to the peak in one day it was a hard long day after many hard long days to get into that area of the pickets mostly 4th class rock with some low fifth class near the top
setrent - Jul 30, 2007 8:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
Southwest RdgeApproached over Whatcom Peak via Luna Cirque. Views were as good as advertised. The true summit is reached over somewhat unpleasant fourth class balanced choss. We had brought and happily used a 40 meter rope and a light alpine rack for the scramble to the true summit.
Pantilat - Jun 20, 2007 2:05 am
Great ViewClimbed after traversing Luna Cirque from Challenger Glacier.
Noah (Oregon) - Aug 23, 2003 1:12 am
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 15th, 2003Thanks to Jim Brisbine I was able to climb to the true summit of Luna Peak. My good friend Eric Cook climbed the final pitches free (actually it was a traverse) with Jim leading the way. I waited with John until Jim was back at which point we all roped up and he took us back over. We never "needed" the rope, but it made it a lot more enjoyable. Great weather and a great group of guys. I would love to go back, but it is one hell of a long hike trip and I am still tired...