Death in the mountains is a sobering event. A European friend once told me that before the start of any big climb they would always visit the local climbers cemetery to quell their excitement about what was to come and to emphasize the reality of what could happen if they weren't vigilant.
Thank you for sharing this Brad. My heart goes out to Stefan's friends and family. The loss of any friend, no matter how new or old, is always painful.
Stefan was always cheerful and in great spirits. He was so happy to see us at Camp 2 that we hugged each other. He was very excited to summit the next day. Never in my wildest dream could i have ever imagined that this would be the last time that i would see him. We had descended together after our "carries" from Camp 2 and Camp 1 and he was much better and faster at descending than me.
Maybe I'm missing something. Stephan requested that they rope up and put in protection on the way up, yet he descended solo with no protection? What am I missing here?
That's a good question and one that has been posed to me by a few fellow climbers. I can only say that I have no answer. He originally planned to climb this route solo. After we joined as partners we discussed our ascent and both agreed that the only time we would probably need the rope was to safely descend the bottleneck. When he suggested we rope up earlier in the climb I didn't question his judgement even though I felt it was not required. That was our agreement and I honoured it. I can only assume that when he took the rope off he felt he could safely descend alone since the section we were on was not technically difficult and he did not suggest we go down together. As a matter of fact he later decided to climb around on his own before descending which he did for a few minutes.
Hang in there as best you can. Simply put, Stefan probably planned this solo event for quite a while, and I'm sure he was quite competant. Solo travel is the ultimate freedom, when you succeed people think your a hero, when you have an accident, people assume your an idiot, and have all these questions. No one wants to die but I'm sure Stefan was where he wanted to be, minus the accident. I guess the beauty and risk is why we climb. You did everything you were supposed to do.
Great story!!
Climb away buddy
John Brady
It is always a sad news to loose someone on the mountain... and like you said, we always tend to believe that this will never happen to us/near to us... However, accidents happen so quickly... even when we believe that nothing can really happen.
Nice pic of Stefan... although the little teddy bear makes me believe that he left some young kids behind...
Sincere condolence to the familly and friends.
Mountainjeff - Jan 22, 2009 7:36 pm - Hasn't voted
I can relate
I was involved in a mountaineering accident several months ago. Luckily my partner did not die, but was in a coma for a month every day appearing to be his last. Even though he did survive, it was an emotionally trying time, that was at its worst several months after the accident. I suffered from extreme depression to the point of illness. Please do not make the same mistake I did and not ask for help if you struggle with what happened. There is a time for grieving, but in my case I greatly prolonged it by hiding my emotions.
My condolences to Stefan's family and friends. Keep on climbing and don't ever think that the accident was in any way your fault.
I had the fortune of climbing with Stefan on Denali in 2007. I check summitpost once a week and was utterly shocked to see this report today. I was thinking back to my memories of Stefan and Denali and what strikes me most is the patience he had (especially in helping me with knots, which he was a master of!) and his upbeat attitude, even in the worst conditions/times. My deepest sympathies to his friends, colleagues and family. He will be missed
marionbraun - Feb 17, 2009 10:21 am - Hasn't voted
sad news
I met Stefan in the Vallecitos region as he was on his way to climb the Cerro el Rincon to acclimatise for Aconcagua. I can confirm that he was a very pleasant, outgoing personality who seemed very well equiped and seemed to know exactly what he was doing in the mountains, also on snow and ice. I had the impression he had not much experience at high altitude,and in my opinion his physical preparation was not up to the task, but he was adamant he would take no risks. Teaming up with a more experienced partner (altitude-wise at least, you led a group, after all) has its advantages, but may also lead to doing things you wouldn't do alone. Stefan asked for protection going up, where you felt it unnecessary, and then wanted to go down. It was obvious that you couldn't summit either (you turned back fairly soon after), so why didn't you go back with him - you had the rope. Normally, if you go up as a team, you go down as a team. Each is responsible for the other, otherwise you go alone. I wish Stefan had gone alone, then he would possibly have turned back earlier and might have gone up the other way the day after. He easily might have had the accident anyway, but just possibly it could have been avoided, if you had gone down with him or at least had given him the rope. In that sense it was an accident that should not have happened. My condolences go to his family, friends and colleagues.
Actually, it was not obvious to me that I could not summit at the time we separated. Also, when I told Stefan I planned to continue upward he simply untied the rope from his harness and handed it to me. There was no discussion about descending together. Furthermore, Stefan did not descend immediately and actually continued climbing solo in the area for a little while.
As for going up and down as a team I can tell you that there are many climbers who continue upward after their partners decide to turn around. That is a decisiion made between each other at that point in time. Don't forget Stefan's original plan was to climb this route solo and he had left his rope at base camp, many days before he considered joining up with me. I can only assume he felt safe to ascend and descend alone.
I've been thinking a lot about this, and my point is not so much that you should have gone down with Stephan - which I still incline to, but I agree it's a matter to decide at the time - but to point out the risks involved in going with a more experienced 'stranger'. At high altitude the mind doesn't work as well as at, say 4000 meters (14,000 ft approx.). Your reactions are slower, you tend to underestimate dangers, and you don't realise how tired you really are. Add on the effects of the cold, and you can very easily get too close to your physical and mental limits. A slight stumble then, which wouldn't even be noticed at 4000 meters, can have fatal consequences. If you're on your own, you are automatically cautious, but in a group, you naturally tend to expect the more experienced climber to assess the risks better than you, even though you (should) know that you are ultimately responsible for your own safety, and therefore sometimes you do things you wouldn't do on your own. I think if Stephan had gone alone, he would have turned back earlier and would probably still be alive. That it's ultimately his responsability is clear to me as well.
Brad Marshall - Jan 19, 2009 8:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: future...Hi:
Death in the mountains is a sobering event. A European friend once told me that before the start of any big climb they would always visit the local climbers cemetery to quell their excitement about what was to come and to emphasize the reality of what could happen if they weren't vigilant.
Sound advice.
Brad
attimount - Jan 20, 2009 12:44 am - Voted 10/10
Condolences...Stefan is somewhere out there, between the peaks and ridges, he loved so much. Condoleances to the family and friends.
All the best to you Brad.
Brad Marshall - Jan 21, 2009 5:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: CondolencesHi Attimount:
Thanks.
Brad
woodsxc - Jan 20, 2009 12:48 am - Voted 10/10
I don't know what to say...Thank you for sharing this Brad. My heart goes out to Stefan's friends and family. The loss of any friend, no matter how new or old, is always painful.
Brad Marshall - Jan 21, 2009 5:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I don't know what to say...Thanks woodsxc. How true.
Brad
lordvoldemort - Jan 20, 2009 4:35 pm - Voted 10/10
Stefan, a great climber and soulStefan was always cheerful and in great spirits. He was so happy to see us at Camp 2 that we hugged each other. He was very excited to summit the next day. Never in my wildest dream could i have ever imagined that this would be the last time that i would see him. We had descended together after our "carries" from Camp 2 and Camp 1 and he was much better and faster at descending than me.
Brad, Thanks for this touching article.
Piyush
moneal - Jan 20, 2009 5:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Maybe I'm missing somethingMaybe I'm missing something. Stephan requested that they rope up and put in protection on the way up, yet he descended solo with no protection? What am I missing here?
Brad Marshall - Jan 21, 2009 5:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Maybe I'm missing somethingHi moneal:
That's a good question and one that has been posed to me by a few fellow climbers. I can only say that I have no answer. He originally planned to climb this route solo. After we joined as partners we discussed our ascent and both agreed that the only time we would probably need the rope was to safely descend the bottleneck. When he suggested we rope up earlier in the climb I didn't question his judgement even though I felt it was not required. That was our agreement and I honoured it. I can only assume that when he took the rope off he felt he could safely descend alone since the section we were on was not technically difficult and he did not suggest we go down together. As a matter of fact he later decided to climb around on his own before descending which he did for a few minutes.
Regards,
Brad
Andinistaloco - Jan 20, 2009 8:23 pm - Hasn't voted
Sorryto hear about this, Brad. Hope you can find something positive to gain from it, though. Take care of yourself -
W
Brad Marshall - Jan 21, 2009 5:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: SorryThanks Walt:
It certainly has given me a lot to think about. Keep in touch.
Brad
depclimb - Jan 21, 2009 3:36 pm - Hasn't voted
RegretsBrad,
Very sorry about your loss and my sympathies to Stefan's family. I hit some really hard 60 ice just above C2 when I did the Polish Direct.
Jeff
Brad Marshall - Jan 21, 2009 5:38 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: RegretsHi Jeff:
Thanks for the kind words. We did run in to some hard ice here and there but but not at such a steep angle.
Regards,
Brad
johnbrady63 - Jan 22, 2009 7:16 am - Voted 10/10
SoloHi Brad
Hang in there as best you can. Simply put, Stefan probably planned this solo event for quite a while, and I'm sure he was quite competant. Solo travel is the ultimate freedom, when you succeed people think your a hero, when you have an accident, people assume your an idiot, and have all these questions. No one wants to die but I'm sure Stefan was where he wanted to be, minus the accident. I guess the beauty and risk is why we climb. You did everything you were supposed to do.
Great story!!
Climb away buddy
John Brady
LeStef - Jan 22, 2009 9:58 am - Hasn't voted
Always sad news...It is always a sad news to loose someone on the mountain... and like you said, we always tend to believe that this will never happen to us/near to us... However, accidents happen so quickly... even when we believe that nothing can really happen.
Nice pic of Stefan... although the little teddy bear makes me believe that he left some young kids behind...
Sincere condolence to the familly and friends.
Mountainjeff - Jan 22, 2009 7:36 pm - Hasn't voted
I can relateI was involved in a mountaineering accident several months ago. Luckily my partner did not die, but was in a coma for a month every day appearing to be his last. Even though he did survive, it was an emotionally trying time, that was at its worst several months after the accident. I suffered from extreme depression to the point of illness. Please do not make the same mistake I did and not ask for help if you struggle with what happened. There is a time for grieving, but in my case I greatly prolonged it by hiding my emotions.
My condolences to Stefan's family and friends. Keep on climbing and don't ever think that the accident was in any way your fault.
Jeff
Ejnar Fjerdingstad - Jan 23, 2009 8:43 am - Voted 10/10
SadA very sad story, but told in a compassionate way!
chapter11 - Jan 24, 2009 9:57 pm - Hasn't voted
CondolencesI had the fortune of climbing with Stefan on Denali in 2007. I check summitpost once a week and was utterly shocked to see this report today. I was thinking back to my memories of Stefan and Denali and what strikes me most is the patience he had (especially in helping me with knots, which he was a master of!) and his upbeat attitude, even in the worst conditions/times. My deepest sympathies to his friends, colleagues and family. He will be missed
marionbraun - Feb 17, 2009 10:21 am - Hasn't voted
sad newsI met Stefan in the Vallecitos region as he was on his way to climb the Cerro el Rincon to acclimatise for Aconcagua. I can confirm that he was a very pleasant, outgoing personality who seemed very well equiped and seemed to know exactly what he was doing in the mountains, also on snow and ice. I had the impression he had not much experience at high altitude,and in my opinion his physical preparation was not up to the task, but he was adamant he would take no risks. Teaming up with a more experienced partner (altitude-wise at least, you led a group, after all) has its advantages, but may also lead to doing things you wouldn't do alone. Stefan asked for protection going up, where you felt it unnecessary, and then wanted to go down. It was obvious that you couldn't summit either (you turned back fairly soon after), so why didn't you go back with him - you had the rope. Normally, if you go up as a team, you go down as a team. Each is responsible for the other, otherwise you go alone. I wish Stefan had gone alone, then he would possibly have turned back earlier and might have gone up the other way the day after. He easily might have had the accident anyway, but just possibly it could have been avoided, if you had gone down with him or at least had given him the rope. In that sense it was an accident that should not have happened. My condolences go to his family, friends and colleagues.
Brad Marshall - Feb 20, 2009 5:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: sad newsActually, it was not obvious to me that I could not summit at the time we separated. Also, when I told Stefan I planned to continue upward he simply untied the rope from his harness and handed it to me. There was no discussion about descending together. Furthermore, Stefan did not descend immediately and actually continued climbing solo in the area for a little while.
As for going up and down as a team I can tell you that there are many climbers who continue upward after their partners decide to turn around. That is a decisiion made between each other at that point in time. Don't forget Stefan's original plan was to climb this route solo and he had left his rope at base camp, many days before he considered joining up with me. I can only assume he felt safe to ascend and descend alone.
marionbraun - Mar 29, 2009 1:18 pm - Hasn't voted
re: sad newsI've been thinking a lot about this, and my point is not so much that you should have gone down with Stephan - which I still incline to, but I agree it's a matter to decide at the time - but to point out the risks involved in going with a more experienced 'stranger'. At high altitude the mind doesn't work as well as at, say 4000 meters (14,000 ft approx.). Your reactions are slower, you tend to underestimate dangers, and you don't realise how tired you really are. Add on the effects of the cold, and you can very easily get too close to your physical and mental limits. A slight stumble then, which wouldn't even be noticed at 4000 meters, can have fatal consequences. If you're on your own, you are automatically cautious, but in a group, you naturally tend to expect the more experienced climber to assess the risks better than you, even though you (should) know that you are ultimately responsible for your own safety, and therefore sometimes you do things you wouldn't do on your own. I think if Stephan had gone alone, he would have turned back earlier and would probably still be alive. That it's ultimately his responsability is clear to me as well.