Lizard V UIAA 90 m. | Climbing on top of Thermisia Lagoon

Overview

“Lizard” (V, 90 m.) first ascent was made on 21/03/2021 by Olympus Mountaineering, C. Toutoutzis and D. Nakos.

The route follows the rock formation which is located on the south banks of Thermisia lagoon.

The route can be described as an “introduction” to traditional multipitch climbing with variety in the climbing style, mainly slab climbing and some scrambling too.

Full description with FREE Topo and Guidebook here: https://olympusmountaineering.com/2021/03/22/lizard-v-uiaa-90-m-climbing-on-top-of-thermisia-lagoon/

Getting There

Only a 2 hour drive (173 km) from Athens to Ermioni from the national road Athens-Corinth and just 7 km from Ermioni until you reach Thermisia lagoon. 

As soon you reach the beginning of the lagoon (37.405818, 23.300304), you turn right and you follow the dirt road till the dead end. From the parking spot, and right from the goat shed, you start a 10-15 minutes hike following the goat trails until you will reach the beginning of the route on this point: 37.401609, 23.301918

Route Description

R0 – R1 | V UIAA – 40 m.

The route starts with the first pitch (40 m.) right from the base of the north side of the rock (37.401609, 23.301918).

The first part of this pitch is a nice slab and actually is also the crux of the route with about 8 m. of vertical climb and UIAA V.

Pay attention to a loose rock while you climb this part. The crux, a small overhang, can be well protected with gear. Then, the route continues through a UIAA IV degree passage and we climb up up to a small ledge where we can place good protection. From that point we follow the ridge UIAA IV until we pass (to our right side) a tree where we can add another solid protection (sling).

Having passed the small tree, we climb up another slab of maximum UIAA IV and we move again on the ridge till we find a ledge with a tree on our right side.  

Make a belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette on an obvious pointy stone. The belay position is very good and comfortable.

R1 – R2 | IV UIAA – 30 m.

The second pitch (30 m.), starts with an easy slab of UIAA IV and we place the first good protection (sling) on a small tree (on our left side). As soon we reach the top of the slab, we come on the ridge and we have to come across a 2 meters  (lenth) exposed passage. We continue to follow the ridge maximum UIAA IV- up to an obvious slab of UIAA IV. As soon we climb up the slab (not well protected), we reach a large tree (pine) where we can belay.

We can belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette on this large tree. The belay position is good, very comfortable and with a unique view towards the Thermisia lagoon bellow and the Lizard Rock.

R2 – R3 | V- UIAA – 20 m

For the the third and final pitch (20 m.) we have to move about 8 m. right (west) from the tree where we belayed. On that point, we will be able to clearly see a cave and just above and on the left a smaller cave too. 

We start to climb on a slab of maximum UIAA V- and our goal is to get again on top of the ridge. As we approach the end of the route, the degree of difficulty decreases UIAA III to a scramble.

We can belay on a large tree by using a double size sling or kevlar cordelette. 

At this point the view to the lagoon, Castle Thermisia (Lizard Rock) and the island of Hydra and Dokos becomes unique.

Essential Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:

• Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
• The North Face Vert 27 lt. Back pack
• 5 lanyards 60 cm
• 1 lanyard 120 cm
• 4 locking carabiners
• 1 HMS carabiner
• Mammut Ophir Harness
• Simond Climbing shoes
• 12 Quickdraws
• Cordelette for prusik
• 2 x 60 m. rope
• 4 carabiners
• Reverso
• 1.5 lt of Water
• 1 energy bar
• Friends / Camalots
• Rock Nuts

External Links

Full description with FREE Topo and Guidebook here: https://olympusmountaineering.com/2021/03/22/lizard-v-uiaa-90-m-climbing-on-top-of-thermisia-lagoon/