Would it be possible to complete a winter or early season climb
of Little T from Summerland, or would route-finding be difficult
if there were no footprints to follow?
A major advantage of ascending in summer would be the amount of
daylight you're provided with. Outstanding achievement!!!
You'd have to check with someone about a winter climb...I'm not quite sure. But an early season would be no problem. I don't quite remember, but the first entry on the summit log was around March..? I could be wrong.
We were pretty much on our own for routefinding. Before the climb, I just had the basic idea of the route from looking at some of the topos on SP. We didn't see any tracks whatsoever that would have helped us. The toughest part (with routefinding) was getting up to the top of Meany Crest, since I'd never been there before. I read about going up to the right side so we went with it and it worked out. That's why I wanted to get some pictures posted up with routes for other people to see. Once we go up onto the Fryingpan, it was easy to see Whitman Crest and the gap where you cross close to Little T. From there is was pretty straight forward. One good thing about an earlier climb is that you'd be able to glissade ALL the way down from Little T to Whitman Glacier (or bring your skis!). As late in the season as it was, the cravasses posed obstacles for a straight glissade down.
Another approach would be from Paradise. Going up to Anvil Rock (or Camp Muir), one can traverse across to Little T. That looks like a fun route also...I may think about that this year. OR take a little side trip from camping at Muir, go climb Little T, and then go for the summit of Rainier the next day! There's a good weekend!
Love the way you compiled this information, and best of luck to you!
Just wondering - are you familiar with Fred Beckey's books?
Here's what it states for the route you chose: "From Summerland skirt rocky cliffs to the right and ascend
south up a rounded slope to Meany Crest (7,000') and then southwest (heading at 235 degrees onto the Fryingpan Glacier.")
Geez, he makes it sound so easy! Seems to me that the "West Ridge" route from Camp Muir would put you in a higher position,
the major obstacle being to cross both the Cowlitz and Ingraham glaciers, then somehow cross over and up to the Whitman.
I suppose any weekend spent in mountains is considered GOOD! Please let me know how it goes - and thanks!
I'm not familiar with Beckey's books. I did a quick search and they look to have some good info. That quote you have there is exactly what you want to do. Pretty much anywhere to the right (west) of Meany Crest that you can get up is good...farther west we saw more cliffs but we did see some tracks leading that way so there may have been an area to get up on the Fryingpan. I have also seen two different crossings for the Whitman Crest...the one we used, and another farther below on the crest. From looking at the maps, the crossing we used looks like a straighter shot.
If you go up from the Paradise side, you'll be gaining more elevation that you need. If you go all the way up to Muir, you'll have to drop around 1500' to cross Cathedral Rocks, then its a straight traverse across the Ingraham and onto the Whitman.
A more direct approach would be to get onto the Cowlitz Glacier at Moon Rocks (9000') or Anvil Rock (9584'), and then start the traverse. You won't have to drop down as much. There is an excellent picture of the routes in "Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide"...from the Mountaineers Books. It also says "Winter or early season via Paradise, early season through July via White River". Also, take note that if you start at Paradise, you would already be about 1600' higher than if you started from Fryingpan Creek like we did. So there is a tradeoff.
Thanks for the comment about my TR...I had this posted up on the CascadeClimbers forum right after I did the climb and I've been meaning to get it posted up on SP. I finally got around to it!
However, there are two additional questions (points) I have regarding routes:
(1) What does the NPS feel about climbers spending the night atop
(7,000') Meany Crest? It's okay to do with a permit, right?
I was under the impression that climbers were staying
overnight at Summerland. There used to be a shelter there
back in the 1980s, but it probably has since been dismantled.
It was built for hikers circumventing Rainier along the
95-mile long Wonderland Trail.
(2) How does this scenario sound? One of your climbing members
parks their car at the "Fryingpan Creek" parking space.
Then, everybody drives to the Paradise side, and takes the
route beginning at Moon Rocks (9,000'.) Somehow, you manage
to cross the divide between the Ingraham and Whitman
glaciers. After surmounting Little T's summit, you then take
the GLISSADE or the normal route over the (9,000' gap) of
Whitman Crest back down the Fryingpan Glacier to Meany Crest
and Summerland. Then, everybody could be "shuttled" back to
their cars at Paradise.
How about storing some food & equipment atop Meany Crest??
Then, it would be cached there if you needed it?
I promise I'll check on the book you mentioned. I was a
Tacoma Mountaineers member back in the 1980s, but I'm sure
a lot of things have changed since then!
Best of luck to you in your mountaineering endeavors!!!
A climbing permit is not required for camping anywhere under 10,000'. From everything I read it there shouldn't be any problems...same rules apply for camping anywhere in the park. That book I mentioned lists a few different camping possibilities: Meany Crest, the gap in Whitman Crest where you cross if you go the Fryingpan approach, and the crossing b/w Ingraham and Whitman Glaciers if you come from Paradise. I did see a few (small) spots on the Whitman Crest...I'd probably only bivy there in case of an emergency. Meany Crest is a big area and flat...perfect for a camp.
The shack is still there at Summerland...still used by the Wonderlanders. I believe you do have to register to camp at any of the camps along the WT, so camping at Summerland is a possibility but you'd have to talk to the Rangers about that. As late in the season as we went, there wouldn't have been a problem staying there because WT traffic was low.
That scenario you planned out was one I was actually thinking of after our climb last year. My climbing buddy also thought it was a good idea and we might do that this year. I think it would be a good time!
If you are planning on camping at Meany Crest (and plan on returning there after the summit), I'd say leave all the gear you can there and go lite for the summit. But, if all you are climbing is Little T in a one day shot, I don't think you'll need to worry about storing extra food/gear somewhere.
Sounds like you got the right idea. Little T was an awesome climb and I'm surprised it's not a popular peak. Of course, if it was by itself and wasn't shadowed by Rainier, it would be. I've lived 30 miles from Rainier my entire life and I didn't even hear about Little T until my first time up Rainier a few years ago!
We did pack WAY more than we needed to for this trip. We pretty much brought everything with the anticipation of possibly staying overnight at Meany Crest...we didn't know what kind of time frame to expect since I've read people doing it both ways. If you do want a more leasurely climb, staying the night at Meany Crest or Muir would be a be good, depending on your approach.
If I were to do it over again, and the weather (and forecast) was stellar like it was for us, I'd go lite and fast. Day pack...probably take my sleeping bag and emergency bivy just in case, but other than that, a lunch, water, and glacier gear. We didn't rope up at all, but I wouldn't go without one. That last little section that I mentioned in my TR is pretty sketchy...depending on how comfortable you are with exposure, you may want to get on a belay to get up to the summit.
Cutting our pack weights would have reduced our time on the mountain dramatically. Luckily the weather was good all day and we weren't in a hurry.
I'm sure that WEIGHT is (or should be) a major consideration for
all mountaineers. I recall one time I hiked from Box Canyon to
Indian Bar along the Wonderland Trail. I took a stove and small
pair of binoculars, but in my haste had left my camera at home.
I ended up seeing 20 elk, 15 mountain goats and two black bears!
lcarreau - Feb 18, 2009 4:43 pm - Voted 10/10
From your indications...Would it be possible to complete a winter or early season climb
of Little T from Summerland, or would route-finding be difficult
if there were no footprints to follow?
A major advantage of ascending in summer would be the amount of
daylight you're provided with. Outstanding achievement!!!
jstluise - Feb 18, 2009 9:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: From your indications...You'd have to check with someone about a winter climb...I'm not quite sure. But an early season would be no problem. I don't quite remember, but the first entry on the summit log was around March..? I could be wrong.
We were pretty much on our own for routefinding. Before the climb, I just had the basic idea of the route from looking at some of the topos on SP. We didn't see any tracks whatsoever that would have helped us. The toughest part (with routefinding) was getting up to the top of Meany Crest, since I'd never been there before. I read about going up to the right side so we went with it and it worked out. That's why I wanted to get some pictures posted up with routes for other people to see. Once we go up onto the Fryingpan, it was easy to see Whitman Crest and the gap where you cross close to Little T. From there is was pretty straight forward. One good thing about an earlier climb is that you'd be able to glissade ALL the way down from Little T to Whitman Glacier (or bring your skis!). As late in the season as it was, the cravasses posed obstacles for a straight glissade down.
Another approach would be from Paradise. Going up to Anvil Rock (or Camp Muir), one can traverse across to Little T. That looks like a fun route also...I may think about that this year. OR take a little side trip from camping at Muir, go climb Little T, and then go for the summit of Rainier the next day! There's a good weekend!
lcarreau - Feb 18, 2009 11:09 pm - Voted 10/10
Yeah ...Love the way you compiled this information, and best of luck to you!
Just wondering - are you familiar with Fred Beckey's books?
Here's what it states for the route you chose:
"From Summerland skirt rocky cliffs to the right and ascend
south up a rounded slope to Meany Crest (7,000') and then southwest (heading at 235 degrees onto the Fryingpan Glacier.")
Geez, he makes it sound so easy! Seems to me that the "West Ridge" route from Camp Muir would put you in a higher position,
the major obstacle being to cross both the Cowlitz and Ingraham glaciers, then somehow cross over and up to the Whitman.
I suppose any weekend spent in mountains is considered GOOD! Please let me know how it goes - and thanks!
jstluise - Feb 19, 2009 2:43 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Yeah ...I'm not familiar with Beckey's books. I did a quick search and they look to have some good info. That quote you have there is exactly what you want to do. Pretty much anywhere to the right (west) of Meany Crest that you can get up is good...farther west we saw more cliffs but we did see some tracks leading that way so there may have been an area to get up on the Fryingpan. I have also seen two different crossings for the Whitman Crest...the one we used, and another farther below on the crest. From looking at the maps, the crossing we used looks like a straighter shot.
If you go up from the Paradise side, you'll be gaining more elevation that you need. If you go all the way up to Muir, you'll have to drop around 1500' to cross Cathedral Rocks, then its a straight traverse across the Ingraham and onto the Whitman.
A more direct approach would be to get onto the Cowlitz Glacier at Moon Rocks (9000') or Anvil Rock (9584'), and then start the traverse. You won't have to drop down as much. There is an excellent picture of the routes in "Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide"...from the Mountaineers Books. It also says "Winter or early season via Paradise, early season through July via White River". Also, take note that if you start at Paradise, you would already be about 1600' higher than if you started from Fryingpan Creek like we did. So there is a tradeoff.
Thanks for the comment about my TR...I had this posted up on the CascadeClimbers forum right after I did the climb and I've been meaning to get it posted up on SP. I finally got around to it!
lcarreau - Feb 19, 2009 2:30 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Yeah ...Thanks for posting this valuable information.
However, there are two additional questions (points) I have regarding routes:
(1) What does the NPS feel about climbers spending the night atop
(7,000') Meany Crest? It's okay to do with a permit, right?
I was under the impression that climbers were staying
overnight at Summerland. There used to be a shelter there
back in the 1980s, but it probably has since been dismantled.
It was built for hikers circumventing Rainier along the
95-mile long Wonderland Trail.
(2) How does this scenario sound? One of your climbing members
parks their car at the "Fryingpan Creek" parking space.
Then, everybody drives to the Paradise side, and takes the
route beginning at Moon Rocks (9,000'.) Somehow, you manage
to cross the divide between the Ingraham and Whitman
glaciers. After surmounting Little T's summit, you then take
the GLISSADE or the normal route over the (9,000' gap) of
Whitman Crest back down the Fryingpan Glacier to Meany Crest
and Summerland. Then, everybody could be "shuttled" back to
their cars at Paradise.
How about storing some food & equipment atop Meany Crest??
Then, it would be cached there if you needed it?
I promise I'll check on the book you mentioned. I was a
Tacoma Mountaineers member back in the 1980s, but I'm sure
a lot of things have changed since then!
Best of luck to you in your mountaineering endeavors!!!
Larry of Arizona
jstluise - Feb 19, 2009 10:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Yeah ...A climbing permit is not required for camping anywhere under 10,000'. From everything I read it there shouldn't be any problems...same rules apply for camping anywhere in the park. That book I mentioned lists a few different camping possibilities: Meany Crest, the gap in Whitman Crest where you cross if you go the Fryingpan approach, and the crossing b/w Ingraham and Whitman Glaciers if you come from Paradise. I did see a few (small) spots on the Whitman Crest...I'd probably only bivy there in case of an emergency. Meany Crest is a big area and flat...perfect for a camp.
The shack is still there at Summerland...still used by the Wonderlanders. I believe you do have to register to camp at any of the camps along the WT, so camping at Summerland is a possibility but you'd have to talk to the Rangers about that. As late in the season as we went, there wouldn't have been a problem staying there because WT traffic was low.
That scenario you planned out was one I was actually thinking of after our climb last year. My climbing buddy also thought it was a good idea and we might do that this year. I think it would be a good time!
If you are planning on camping at Meany Crest (and plan on returning there after the summit), I'd say leave all the gear you can there and go lite for the summit. But, if all you are climbing is Little T in a one day shot, I don't think you'll need to worry about storing extra food/gear somewhere.
Sounds like you got the right idea. Little T was an awesome climb and I'm surprised it's not a popular peak. Of course, if it was by itself and wasn't shadowed by Rainier, it would be. I've lived 30 miles from Rainier my entire life and I didn't even hear about Little T until my first time up Rainier a few years ago!
jstluise - Feb 19, 2009 2:57 am - Hasn't voted
Also...We did pack WAY more than we needed to for this trip. We pretty much brought everything with the anticipation of possibly staying overnight at Meany Crest...we didn't know what kind of time frame to expect since I've read people doing it both ways. If you do want a more leasurely climb, staying the night at Meany Crest or Muir would be a be good, depending on your approach.
If I were to do it over again, and the weather (and forecast) was stellar like it was for us, I'd go lite and fast. Day pack...probably take my sleeping bag and emergency bivy just in case, but other than that, a lunch, water, and glacier gear. We didn't rope up at all, but I wouldn't go without one. That last little section that I mentioned in my TR is pretty sketchy...depending on how comfortable you are with exposure, you may want to get on a belay to get up to the summit.
Cutting our pack weights would have reduced our time on the mountain dramatically. Luckily the weather was good all day and we weren't in a hurry.
lcarreau - Feb 19, 2009 2:58 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Also...I'm sure that WEIGHT is (or should be) a major consideration for
all mountaineers. I recall one time I hiked from Box Canyon to
Indian Bar along the Wonderland Trail. I took a stove and small
pair of binoculars, but in my haste had left my camera at home.
I ended up seeing 20 elk, 15 mountain goats and two black bears!