Awesome. I've tried Rainier 5 times and never made the summit. You were lucky, but you know that already. Good for you. I just hope that some noob out there doesn't read this trip report and try to emulate you without being as well prepared. Like you said, taking an experienced big mountain climber with you, and training at altitude beforehand is probably what saved your bacon. Interesting too, that your worst weather was at lower altitudes. I can totally understand the reactions you got from the guides and rangers, but nothing speaks like success!
Long trip to do in a day. I bet you guys were running up the ridge. But speed is safety and doing it this way gives you two the confidence for bigger and better things. Congrats. Alois.
ExcitableBoy - Feb 19, 2012 10:11 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Awesome
Speed is safety. Clearly these fellows had the fitness and preparation to do it right, two essential elements to doing fast and light ascents with an acceptable margin of safety.
"Everyone we found there was wiped out from their climb, and reported deep slush. But, they were all hiking at low altitudes during mid-day. After hearing a few stories, Pete and I came up with a plan. We’d go back to camp and pack up, get a few hours rest, and leave the trailhead by 3 am...." To me this indicates flexibility, energy and intelligence applied to the problem.
Sounds like it was a lot of fun, congratulations!
ExcitableBoy - Feb 20, 2012 12:20 pm - Voted 10/10
...for all the positive comments. When researching this route, we found little beta on previous one day ascents, so I felt compelled to spray a little. Hopefully this report will help others with similar plans. I can't wait to get back to the "Upper Left Corner" and try my hand at some of the more hard to access lines in the North Cascades.
thatnissanguy - Feb 12, 2012 4:10 am - Hasn't voted
Great adventure!I can't wait to see this TR finished. Looks like a great start.
darinchadwick - Feb 13, 2012 4:39 am - Voted 10/10
LUCKYAwesome. I've tried Rainier 5 times and never made the summit. You were lucky, but you know that already. Good for you. I just hope that some noob out there doesn't read this trip report and try to emulate you without being as well prepared. Like you said, taking an experienced big mountain climber with you, and training at altitude beforehand is probably what saved your bacon. Interesting too, that your worst weather was at lower altitudes. I can totally understand the reactions you got from the guides and rangers, but nothing speaks like success!
ExcitableBoy - Feb 19, 2012 3:16 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: LUCKYI'm not so sure they were lucky as well conditioned and prepared.
asmrz - Feb 13, 2012 11:14 am - Voted 10/10
AwesomeLong trip to do in a day. I bet you guys were running up the ridge. But speed is safety and doing it this way gives you two the confidence for bigger and better things. Congrats. Alois.
ExcitableBoy - Feb 19, 2012 10:11 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: AwesomeSpeed is safety. Clearly these fellows had the fitness and preparation to do it right, two essential elements to doing fast and light ascents with an acceptable margin of safety.
ExcitableBoy - Feb 19, 2012 2:42 pm - Voted 10/10
FYILeather boots are very popular in the Cascades. Mostly guides and clients favor plastics. 20 hours is pretty quick for out of towners. Nice work.
DanielWandsneider - Feb 19, 2012 3:00 pm - Voted 10/10
good work!I'll be moving from Fort Collins to the NW this summer, and will be playing on Rainier a bit. I'll have to check this route out, thanks for the TR!
mvs - Feb 20, 2012 6:05 am - Voted 10/10
stuff like this..."Everyone we found there was wiped out from their climb, and reported deep slush. But, they were all hiking at low altitudes during mid-day. After hearing a few stories, Pete and I came up with a plan. We’d go back to camp and pack up, get a few hours rest, and leave the trailhead by 3 am...." To me this indicates flexibility, energy and intelligence applied to the problem.
Sounds like it was a lot of fun, congratulations!
ExcitableBoy - Feb 20, 2012 12:20 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: stuff like this...Good points Michael.
phillipwortmann - Feb 21, 2012 3:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Thanks...for all the positive comments. When researching this route, we found little beta on previous one day ascents, so I felt compelled to spray a little. Hopefully this report will help others with similar plans. I can't wait to get back to the "Upper Left Corner" and try my hand at some of the more hard to access lines in the North Cascades.
ExcitableBoy - Feb 21, 2012 3:54 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Thanks"try my hand at some of the more hard to access lines in the North Cascades."
If you need some suggestions, I'd be happy to recommend a few.
bird - Feb 24, 2012 2:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Nice JobVery impressive! Dodging the rocks on the lower ridge was my least favorite part.