Great report and a pleasure to read. Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences and pics. I look forward to more of your trip reports, particularly if they are of this high quality.
Thanks. Other than a couple snapshots, all the photos were taken with a DSLR and Nikon 12-24 WA zoom w/ polarizer. The lens+camera configuration is unfortunately pretty huge. I get a lot of surpised looks from people and maybe thats why I can't climb very hard, but I've gotten used to carrying it.
I particularly enjoyed reading about your experiences at the Pinnacles. I remember the traverse on Portent; it was easy and scary at the same time.
Old Original may only be a 5.3, but it seems to me that many beginning leaders don't have the route finding skills to pull it off. A better intro to multi-pitch climbing is the Coastanoan, 5.4.
I agree, although I thought Rubine's guidebook called it Costanoan. Over the holidays we went back and reclimbed Old Original (still waiting on snow in the Sierras), and I was surprised at how rough it was.
In particular the downclimb from the notch after the mid-route rappels felt dicey for a beginner route. There's a rap bolt you could use for backup, but I'm not really sure what its doing there - who wants to rap off a single bolt?
I have a very hard time with spelling. My notes say Coastanoan, but I will check Rubine's guidebook (and make any needed corrections). Edited to add - you were correct & I made the necessary changes. 1/27/07.
Many so called 'beginner" climbs were not originally climbed by beginners. That factor, combined with a ground up bolting ethic causes that many easy climbs have sketchy sections or run outs. The First Sister truly scares me. It is easy, but a fall would be nasty. It is only 5.4 or 5.5. If it were a 5.10, the bolting would be reasonable.
& some really nice photos! Funny to read about another Bay Arear ticking off the 'standard' classic climbs list. Like reading through a season or 2's climbs that I've done! On Haystack, slot in a bomber .75 Camalot (w/ a short draw), then search around for the bomber L handhold, pull & commit (i.e. you're hanging there for a second or so), then swing your leg over. Once you commit & get your lower body up, you're there! Have fun climbing (& learning), & hit me up if you want to climb sometime.
I think Matt and I met you two years ago in February on Casaval. As I hope this trip report conveys we've had a pretty interesting series of adventures since then!
I had to get used to two separate problems with an SLR. The first is simply the bulk and weight. The weight isn't that much - a couple pounds - but definitely noticeable on longer or harder climbs. The bulk it takes up can complicate chimneys, offwidths, corners and any route where you're trying to squeeze into or against something. If you hang the camera off your harness, it can also complicate getting at a piece of gear right when you need it the most.
The other problem was figuring out how to mix photography and climbing. I had primarily landscape experience and I didn't want to take just snapshots - I wanted to take my time and get a "perfect" shot. Add in the time it takes to stop and pull a camera out of your pack and either I'd never get anywhere or I'd never take any photos.
Realizing I couldn't do both at once, I left my camera in the closet during the first season and focused on climbing. Over the winter I got a chest harness for the camera, ditched the ski poles, and spent the season skiing with my SLR in hand. I didn't get any good photos, but shooting my ski buddies while keeping up with them through the trees was great practice for shooting while climbing.
Occasionally I might ask one of my climbing partners to stop for a second while I snap a picture, but mostly I have to shoot without slowing anybody down. This requires fast composing and metering skills, and some degree of multitasking to keep them on a good belay. In a sense you have to be a half step ahead of everyone else. I'm still not very good at it, but if I'd tried to take photos on the go my first year of climbing it would have been miserable.
Dean - Jan 26, 2007 5:41 pm - Voted 10/10
WhoaGreat report and a pleasure to read. Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences and pics. I look forward to more of your trip reports, particularly if they are of this high quality.
Deb - Jan 26, 2007 5:53 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice Write-upGreat story of many places and types of climbing. Did you use a wide-angle lens on some of these photos?
mattyj - Jan 26, 2007 7:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice Write-upThanks. Other than a couple snapshots, all the photos were taken with a DSLR and Nikon 12-24 WA zoom w/ polarizer. The lens+camera configuration is unfortunately pretty huge. I get a lot of surpised looks from people and maybe thats why I can't climb very hard, but I've gotten used to carrying it.
lisae - Jan 26, 2007 8:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice Work!I particularly enjoyed reading about your experiences at the Pinnacles. I remember the traverse on Portent; it was easy and scary at the same time.
Old Original may only be a 5.3, but it seems to me that many beginning leaders don't have the route finding skills to pull it off. A better intro to multi-pitch climbing is the Coastanoan, 5.4.
mattyj - Jan 26, 2007 8:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice Work!I agree, although I thought Rubine's guidebook called it Costanoan. Over the holidays we went back and reclimbed Old Original (still waiting on snow in the Sierras), and I was surprised at how rough it was.
In particular the downclimb from the notch after the mid-route rappels felt dicey for a beginner route. There's a rap bolt you could use for backup, but I'm not really sure what its doing there - who wants to rap off a single bolt?
lisae - Jan 26, 2007 9:37 pm - Voted 10/10
Sigh...I have a very hard time with spelling. My notes say Coastanoan, but I will check Rubine's guidebook (and make any needed corrections). Edited to add - you were correct & I made the necessary changes. 1/27/07.
Many so called 'beginner" climbs were not originally climbed by beginners. That factor, combined with a ground up bolting ethic causes that many easy climbs have sketchy sections or run outs. The First Sister truly scares me. It is easy, but a fall would be nasty. It is only 5.4 or 5.5. If it were a 5.10, the bolting would be reasonable.
Diggler - Jan 29, 2007 5:16 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice TR& some really nice photos! Funny to read about another Bay Arear ticking off the 'standard' classic climbs list. Like reading through a season or 2's climbs that I've done! On Haystack, slot in a bomber .75 Camalot (w/ a short draw), then search around for the bomber L handhold, pull & commit (i.e. you're hanging there for a second or so), then swing your leg over. Once you commit & get your lower body up, you're there! Have fun climbing (& learning), & hit me up if you want to climb sometime.
lessthanjoey - Jan 29, 2007 9:01 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Nice TRI think Matt and I met you two years ago in February on Casaval. As I hope this trip report conveys we've had a pretty interesting series of adventures since then!
Diggler - Jan 29, 2007 10:31 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Nice TRI remember that now. Still need to make it to the summit from that route! Sounds like you guys are having a great time.
Josh_Inked - Feb 1, 2007 4:19 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice JobGreat and informative report. I am just starting out so it shows me that I have a lot ahead.
Did you really find an SLR that uncomfortable starting out?
mattyj - Feb 1, 2007 10:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice JobI had to get used to two separate problems with an SLR. The first is simply the bulk and weight. The weight isn't that much - a couple pounds - but definitely noticeable on longer or harder climbs. The bulk it takes up can complicate chimneys, offwidths, corners and any route where you're trying to squeeze into or against something. If you hang the camera off your harness, it can also complicate getting at a piece of gear right when you need it the most.
The other problem was figuring out how to mix photography and climbing. I had primarily landscape experience and I didn't want to take just snapshots - I wanted to take my time and get a "perfect" shot. Add in the time it takes to stop and pull a camera out of your pack and either I'd never get anywhere or I'd never take any photos.
Realizing I couldn't do both at once, I left my camera in the closet during the first season and focused on climbing. Over the winter I got a chest harness for the camera, ditched the ski poles, and spent the season skiing with my SLR in hand. I didn't get any good photos, but shooting my ski buddies while keeping up with them through the trees was great practice for shooting while climbing.
Occasionally I might ask one of my climbing partners to stop for a second while I snap a picture, but mostly I have to shoot without slowing anybody down. This requires fast composing and metering skills, and some degree of multitasking to keep them on a good belay. In a sense you have to be a half step ahead of everyone else. I'm still not very good at it, but if I'd tried to take photos on the go my first year of climbing it would have been miserable.
OortCloud - Apr 13, 2007 4:34 pm - Hasn't voted
Fantastic read!My favorite part were the beers at the Strawberry Lodge.