Outstanding, amazing, impressive and beautiful are just some the words for the pictures on this page. What a beautiful route. Thanks for sharing it with us.
-TyeDyeTwins-
Thank you very much! It really is a great route you know? I heard about it a while ago but avoided it because I thought "oh, it's all bolted and south facing on a kind of scruffy looking face." But the incredibly clean crack and dihedral pitches were so nice. And the bolts are very well spaced...a few cams/nuts are handy on the harder pitches!
Thanks Sebastian, you are right, me too...I reeeeally want to climb. I'm going to Oklahoma to visit relatives over Christmas. Maybe I can get out to the Wichitas Mountains for a day? Hmm...(scheming)
Great route and very good, honestly written TR - I always enjoy your TRs. At first sight one could think those bolts may be out of place next to those nicely protectable cracks but from your description it ain't as easy as it seems... at least you got an excuse to come back in spring :)
Some amazing airy shots you have!
cheers
kamil
Thanks Kamil. Yeah! You raise a good point. It is really an "alpine sport" route in that it's basically a bolt protected climb. But the spacing of the bolts is alpine.
You know, I've been on some routes out here where trad routes are maintained as trad. I've hung from some sketchy piton belays in the Dolomites and noticed chopped bolts. But there is this category of "Genuss/Plaisir" (pleasure) routes which are bolted. "Via Romantica" is one of those. It seems to me that creators of new routes who want their routes to be climbed will build them this way...at least making fixed anchors.
Finally, that "excuse to come back" is actually quite motivating for winter training. In that way failure is better than success. Thanks for the note!
You got it Uli! I'm thinking of climbing again...will you be able this year, maybe late in the year? Can't wait to see you back in the mountains again!
TyeDyeTwins - Nov 23, 2009 3:01 pm - Voted 10/10
Outstanding....Outstanding, amazing, impressive and beautiful are just some the words for the pictures on this page. What a beautiful route. Thanks for sharing it with us.
-TyeDyeTwins-
mvs - Nov 25, 2009 4:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Outstanding....Thank you very much! It really is a great route you know? I heard about it a while ago but avoided it because I thought "oh, it's all bolted and south facing on a kind of scruffy looking face." But the incredibly clean crack and dihedral pitches were so nice. And the bolts are very well spaced...a few cams/nuts are handy on the harder pitches!
EastKing - Nov 29, 2009 5:39 am - Voted 10/10
Excellent and amazing!!The pictures are amazing and the trip report awesome. Glad to see this made it on the front page. Excellent.
mvs - Nov 30, 2009 8:19 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Excellent and amazing!!Thanks EastKing...way to go on all those Teanaway and other Cascade peaks in the short time you've been out west!
McCannster - Nov 29, 2009 3:28 pm - Voted 10/10
Great report.This looks like so much fun. I'll be in CH next summer and would love to get on some long routes with you!
mvs - Nov 30, 2009 8:17 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Great report.Cool, maybe it is possible!
Moni - Nov 29, 2009 10:32 pm - Voted 10/10
Superpictures and great report! Fred and I will also be in Switzerland next summer. 2 weeks based out of Kandersteg and 1 week in the Haslital.
mvs - Nov 30, 2009 8:18 am - Hasn't voted
Re: SuperAwesome, it's great that you and Fred are coming back...we'll see if it's possible to climb :D.
Charles - Dec 1, 2009 10:28 am - Voted 10/10
You...bugger! Fancy getting that in now!!! Well done, great route and great description!
Yours jealously
Charles!!!
mvs - Dec 1, 2009 10:42 am - Hasn't voted
Re: You...LOL, thanks Charles! Well, couldn't do it now...it's painfully cold and wet out there since Monday. Time to curl up and watch "Nordwand."
Charles - Dec 1, 2009 11:09 am - Voted 10/10
Re: You...true! Hey, let´s visit a Xmas market and have a beer before the day itself!!
mvs - Dec 1, 2009 11:36 am - Hasn't voted
Re: You...Emails deployed over secure channelz.
Sebastian Hamm - Dec 1, 2009 5:49 pm - Voted 10/10
Once again...... great TR.
Looking "Schoene Verschneidung" and pitch 9 make me longing for climbing ;-)
Ciao!
Sebastian
mvs - Dec 4, 2009 5:48 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Once again...Thanks Sebastian, you are right, me too...I reeeeally want to climb. I'm going to Oklahoma to visit relatives over Christmas. Maybe I can get out to the Wichitas Mountains for a day? Hmm...(scheming)
kamil - Dec 2, 2009 9:09 pm - Voted 10/10
what a climb!Great route and very good, honestly written TR - I always enjoy your TRs. At first sight one could think those bolts may be out of place next to those nicely protectable cracks but from your description it ain't as easy as it seems... at least you got an excuse to come back in spring :)
Some amazing airy shots you have!
cheers
kamil
mvs - Dec 3, 2009 4:52 am - Hasn't voted
Re: what a climb!Thanks Kamil. Yeah! You raise a good point. It is really an "alpine sport" route in that it's basically a bolt protected climb. But the spacing of the bolts is alpine.
You know, I've been on some routes out here where trad routes are maintained as trad. I've hung from some sketchy piton belays in the Dolomites and noticed chopped bolts. But there is this category of "Genuss/Plaisir" (pleasure) routes which are bolted. "Via Romantica" is one of those. It seems to me that creators of new routes who want their routes to be climbed will build them this way...at least making fixed anchors.
Finally, that "excuse to come back" is actually quite motivating for winter training. In that way failure is better than success. Thanks for the note!
amtsleiter - Feb 8, 2010 11:36 am - Voted 9/10
Great day - create climbHey, thanks for this trip report. It was a nice day and a good climb. I guess we can have such fun days again next summer ...
mvs - May 3, 2010 6:13 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Great day - create climbYou got it Uli! I'm thinking of climbing again...will you be able this year, maybe late in the year? Can't wait to see you back in the mountains again!