Finally a new maintainer.
I vote ten already, as I know the result will be great.
If I were you, I would detach all the routes which are now attached to the page. I can't judge the quality of them as I haven't climbed them. The submitter hasn't climbed any of them either and telling from his other route submissions they are at best misleading and potentially dangerous.
The Khan Tengri main page currently (July 16 2011) states:
"Khan Tengri is generally considered to be the third hardest Snow Leopard mountain after Pik Lenin and Pik Kommunizma."
This statement is misleading and almost certainly incorrect. Lenin is well known as one of the easiest 7000m peaks in the world, and it is also well established that Pik Pobeda is the most difficult Snow Leopard peak.
But the general interpretation of the quote would mean both Lenin and Kommunism are more difficult than Khan and Pobeda, which is simply, and in the eyes of everyone who has climbed those peaks, false. There may be some quibbling in the ordering of the middle three peaks, but those at the easiest (Lenin) and hardest (Pobeda) are very well established. The truth is that Lenin and Khorzhenevskaya are definitely easier, but that is not how the page is worded.
A more accurate statement would be " Khan Tengri is generally considered to be the second hardest snow leopard peak after Pik Pobeda," which is true and clear. Some think Kommunism is harder than Khan because of the altitude. But there is no way Lenin is more difficult.
I am so glad that I saw this page online, I have been going around in circles trying to get some information from tour agents and guides who are being very slow in replying to queries... I am really hoping that someone here might help. Does anyone know the distance (km) that is covered when doing the Khan Tengri ascent from base camp when starting the trek in Kazakhstan? (or any info about km covered would be great!!)
I Spent July and August of 2013 climbing in the Central Ala-Too Range and on the West Ridge of Khan Tengri. Also did some exploring around Khan Tengri BC Valley. Let me know if anyone would like any beta on routes, ranges, logistics, or just the experience.
In 2018 the camp leader Dimitri and his friend Alex were very unfriendly and had lots of discussions with several customers.
People with 'Full Package' were not satisfied with the food and they were hungry every evening.
But even for the danger of avalanches and ice fall i'd suggest going from the north side. There are often accidents on the south route which is not that much easier than the north route.
According to the climate server: https://climatecharts.net/, the lowest precipitation is from November to February - around 6 to 8 mm. However, average temperatures at 3500 are similar to average January temperatures in the lowlands of central Canada between the Hudson Bay and southern Alaska, around -20 degrees. This means that winter temperatures in the higher elevations of the Tien Shan could be similar to those in the highest mountains of Alaska and northwestern Canada. Although the summer is warmer, the precipitation is significantly higher - around 50 mm/month.
Corax - Feb 2, 2007 9:42 am - Voted 10/10
Good!Finally a new maintainer.
I vote ten already, as I know the result will be great.
If I were you, I would detach all the routes which are now attached to the page. I can't judge the quality of them as I haven't climbed them. The submitter hasn't climbed any of them either and telling from his other route submissions they are at best misleading and potentially dangerous.
BigLee - Feb 2, 2007 1:58 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Good!Thanks. Yes, I will detach them if need be! I'll have a read of those routes this weekend and see what I make of them.
BigLee - Feb 3, 2007 6:24 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Good!Detached!
zoomloco - Jul 16, 2011 3:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Harder than the page lets onThe Khan Tengri main page currently (July 16 2011) states:
"Khan Tengri is generally considered to be the third hardest Snow Leopard mountain after Pik Lenin and Pik Kommunizma."
This statement is misleading and almost certainly incorrect. Lenin is well known as one of the easiest 7000m peaks in the world, and it is also well established that Pik Pobeda is the most difficult Snow Leopard peak.
But the general interpretation of the quote would mean both Lenin and Kommunism are more difficult than Khan and Pobeda, which is simply, and in the eyes of everyone who has climbed those peaks, false. There may be some quibbling in the ordering of the middle three peaks, but those at the easiest (Lenin) and hardest (Pobeda) are very well established. The truth is that Lenin and Khorzhenevskaya are definitely easier, but that is not how the page is worded.
A more accurate statement would be " Khan Tengri is generally considered to be the second hardest snow leopard peak after Pik Pobeda," which is true and clear. Some think Kommunism is harder than Khan because of the altitude. But there is no way Lenin is more difficult.
BigLee - Aug 6, 2011 5:21 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Harder than the page lets onThat was a typo error. Should have said Pobeda and Kummunizma
DD2013 - Sep 11, 2013 10:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Details on Khan Tengri expeditionHi,
I am so glad that I saw this page online, I have been going around in circles trying to get some information from tour agents and guides who are being very slow in replying to queries... I am really hoping that someone here might help. Does anyone know the distance (km) that is covered when doing the Khan Tengri ascent from base camp when starting the trek in Kazakhstan? (or any info about km covered would be great!!)
I really hope that you can help.
Cheers!
Davina
AlpineGT - Oct 11, 2013 8:51 am - Voted 8/10
Khan Tengri West RidgeHello,
I Spent July and August of 2013 climbing in the Central Ala-Too Range and on the West Ridge of Khan Tengri. Also did some exploring around Khan Tengri BC Valley. Let me know if anyone would like any beta on routes, ranges, logistics, or just the experience.
George
highman - Apr 2, 2015 1:57 am - Hasn't voted
Khan Tengri from north videoHello,
https://youtu.be/baJnhKN8Z8M - short 13m film showing our last year expedition to Khan Tengri - North Face, B. Solomatov Classical (Solomatov) Enjoy!
runout - Dec 22, 2018 7:14 am - Hasn't voted
South Base CampIn 2018 the camp leader Dimitri and his friend Alex were very unfriendly and had lots of discussions with several customers.
People with 'Full Package' were not satisfied with the food and they were hungry every evening.
But even for the danger of avalanches and ice fall i'd suggest going from the north side. There are often accidents on the south route which is not that much easier than the north route.
Magiosa - Mar 13, 2024 10:35 am - Hasn't voted
Climatic conditionsAccording to the climate server: https://climatecharts.net/, the lowest precipitation is from November to February - around 6 to 8 mm. However, average temperatures at 3500 are similar to average January temperatures in the lowlands of central Canada between the Hudson Bay and southern Alaska, around -20 degrees. This means that winter temperatures in the higher elevations of the Tien Shan could be similar to those in the highest mountains of Alaska and northwestern Canada. Although the summer is warmer, the precipitation is significantly higher - around 50 mm/month.