Of course no. The rescue service in Caucasus has a lot of problems instead of necessary things. No gear, no helicopters, no professional staff... And no web service and public statistics. I am sorry
I climbed Elbrus in June 2004, and my guide told me the story of the Canadians who died on the East summit happening in 2002.
Funny that the rescue guy said it happened in 2005. They should get their dates straight. I don't have a problem when someone tells me to be careful on a particular mountain because of the weather, but don't try to scare me.
I was there in 2004, and I had Alex as a guide for the region...They do have a helicopter, its a 1970 Russian "Yak". There gear is old, but in the hands of an experienced climber, it makes no difference. There is no need for a web service when you are at 4000-5000 meters.
I heard this tale also, but can not say whether it is truth or not. One thing I know for sure: sometimes climbing Elbrus becomes too dangerous and the experienced climber most likely will forbear from the ascention.
Hey, nice job. Is that Boris "Borya", he has a helicopter, the nice Ratrack and used to drive a land rover? If so, very cool guy. Is he related to Izhaak from the bochki?
That day was in late june/ early july 2003, I climbed that day and saw and talked to those guys coming off of the west summit headed for the east. It was horrible weather, the worst summit day I have ever had there. There had been a lenticular on both summits throughout the morning, then it grew and descended. They were headed over when the weather still looked doable; within an hour the winds were up to 50 mph with higher gusts and visiblitiy dropped to 15' or so. The weather didn't improve substantially for the next 3 days.
Elbrus is not so bad when conditions are good; but they can change quickly, and then you are on a huge rounded volcano with few usable landmarks (especially in a whiteout, which happens frequently on the upper mountain), with ice, multiple huge crevasses, and a lack of shelter. Hypothermia is usually the next issue, compounding the "routefinding". Most people don't bring clothing or gear to allow them to hunker down and last a night (or more) up there.
Spasibo to you, Alex, for the great interview and good posts and pictures elsewhere. I have spent a lot of time on Elbrus and know how bad it can get up there. Many people do not take the climb seriously enough; each year many die. Posting good information like your interview is important, and hopefully will help people be better prepared.
It is great to stress out the importance of high altitude and bad weather. Many people go there with the idea of an easy hike up, but it is not true...
Thanks, Alex...
Corax - Nov 21, 2005 10:04 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentA very interesting read.
Is there a site where you can look at official accident statistics for Elbrus and the rest of the Caucasus?
magellan - Nov 21, 2005 3:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentNew style of TR. I like it.
alexclimb - Nov 21, 2005 3:23 pm - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentOf course no. The rescue service in Caucasus has a lot of problems instead of necessary things. No gear, no helicopters, no professional staff... And no web service and public statistics. I am sorry
igneouscarl - Nov 22, 2005 4:32 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentCheers for the good read, I'm hoping to go to the Caucasus within the next couple of years and you've provided a good insight. Gracias.
MikeW - Nov 22, 2005 9:05 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentI climbed Elbrus in June 2004, and my guide told me the story of the Canadians who died on the East summit happening in 2002.
Funny that the rescue guy said it happened in 2005. They should get their dates straight. I don't have a problem when someone tells me to be careful on a particular mountain because of the weather, but don't try to scare me.
pfeifdogz - Nov 23, 2005 2:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentI was there in 2004, and I had Alex as a guide for the region...They do have a helicopter, its a 1970 Russian "Yak". There gear is old, but in the hands of an experienced climber, it makes no difference. There is no need for a web service when you are at 4000-5000 meters.
Lonerunner - Dec 1, 2005 4:02 pm - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentCan anybody confirm the rescue service official's assertion that Tenzing Norgay was turned back on Elbrus because of bad weather?
alexclimb - Dec 2, 2005 4:21 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentI heard this tale also, but can not say whether it is truth or not. One thing I know for sure: sometimes climbing Elbrus becomes too dangerous and the experienced climber most likely will forbear from the ascention.
Liba Kopeckova - Apr 2, 2010 8:41 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Trip Report CommentIsn't this true for any mountain - bad weather should be respected?
alexclimb - Apr 5, 2010 3:11 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Trip Report CommentThank you for your comment! Surely it is true for any mountain, but in the same time it is so often forgotten by climbers.
TM - Apr 10, 2006 6:28 am - Voted 10/10
Good interviewHey, nice job. Is that Boris "Borya", he has a helicopter, the nice Ratrack and used to drive a land rover? If so, very cool guy. Is he related to Izhaak from the bochki?
alexclimb - Mar 10, 2007 5:50 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Good interviewYes, it is the same person! I am not sure about his relations with Izhaak, but you never know who is who in so small and somehow isolated place...
TM - Mar 6, 2007 5:15 pm - Voted 10/10
canadiansThat day was in late june/ early july 2003, I climbed that day and saw and talked to those guys coming off of the west summit headed for the east. It was horrible weather, the worst summit day I have ever had there. There had been a lenticular on both summits throughout the morning, then it grew and descended. They were headed over when the weather still looked doable; within an hour the winds were up to 50 mph with higher gusts and visiblitiy dropped to 15' or so. The weather didn't improve substantially for the next 3 days.
Elbrus is not so bad when conditions are good; but they can change quickly, and then you are on a huge rounded volcano with few usable landmarks (especially in a whiteout, which happens frequently on the upper mountain), with ice, multiple huge crevasses, and a lack of shelter. Hypothermia is usually the next issue, compounding the "routefinding". Most people don't bring clothing or gear to allow them to hunker down and last a night (or more) up there.
alexclimb - Mar 10, 2007 5:44 am - Hasn't voted
Re: canadiansThank you, my friend, for your very reasonable comment. It looks like you know the subject quite well.
TM - Apr 11, 2007 7:01 pm - Voted 10/10
thank youSpasibo to you, Alex, for the great interview and good posts and pictures elsewhere. I have spent a lot of time on Elbrus and know how bad it can get up there. Many people do not take the climb seriously enough; each year many die. Posting good information like your interview is important, and hopefully will help people be better prepared.
Liba Kopeckova - Apr 2, 2010 8:43 pm - Voted 10/10
Great interview...It is great to stress out the importance of high altitude and bad weather. Many people go there with the idea of an easy hike up, but it is not true...
Thanks, Alex...
alexclimb - Apr 5, 2010 3:13 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Great interview...Thank you again!:) You know, the most dangerous thing is that doesn't look dangerous at all