SummitPost - dkantola on the "traverse"... -- Photos, Diagrams & Topos

dkantola on the "traverse"...

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dkantola on the "traverse" below Prouty Pinnacle. Entrance to the Bowling Alley at the end of the snow. July 11, 2004

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Dean

Nice shot

Voted 10/10

You've kept busy, Shasta one week, north sister the next. Way to go.

Posted Jul 13, 2004 1:25 am


	Cornvallis	Re: Nice shot
	Hasn't voted	Thanks Dean. This was a fun one, but aren't they all!
		Posted Jul 13, 2004 1:39 am


	Dean	Re: Nice shot
	Voted 10/10	Too bad we missed you on Shasta. We must have passed you as we went down and you were on the way up.
		Posted Jul 13, 2004 1:42 am


	Dean	Re: Nice shot
	Voted 10/10	I'd love to hear your North Sister story some time. It would make a great trip report I'll bet. dkantola is really doing some amazing stuff.
		Posted Jul 13, 2004 1:50 am


	Cornvallis	Re: Nice shot
	Hasn't voted	It was a great trip. dkantola knows his stuff, I felt very comfortable with his leadership in the technical portions of the climb.
		Posted Jul 13, 2004 2:02 am

cluck

Pretty gnarly traverse

Hasn't voted

That traverse certainly kept you on your toes...... so to speak. 45 degrees straight up is no big thing. But trying french technique on a traverse is more challenging, particularly with a less than pleasant run out below.

They say the traverse is worse when it is melted out. Angle of slope becomes less severe (30-40 maybe) but is on loose dinner plates. Glad I won't be back in late season to find out for myself.

Nice to see you Cornwalis and DKantola

Posted Jul 13, 2004 5:11 pm


	Diggler	Re: Pretty gnarly traverse
	Voted 10/10	French technique? It looks like German technique to me. Great shot at any rate! From what I've heard of the rock on that mountain, being on ice or snow seems like it would definitely be preferable to the "rock" there!
		Posted Jul 13, 2004 7:14 pm


	Cornvallis	Re: Pretty gnarly traverse
	Hasn't voted	French, German........whatever, I was just clinging to that slope for my life ;-) I think every rock on that mountain, except for the pinnacle, moved! Even so, great climb, gotta love the Sisters.
		Posted Jul 13, 2004 7:37 pm


	cluck	Re: Pretty gnarly traverse
	Hasn't voted	Indeed.... photo shows front pointing, which DKantola may have done for the majority of the traverse. For me and my climbing partner, we had our boots facing in the direction of the traverse, not pointing up the hill, thus French. All crampons points in the snow, ankle to knee pointing away from the slope. Knee to hip angled back towards the slope. Don't believe I am personally capable of using French technique on a traverse any steeper than this and would have to go to front points (German).
		Posted Jul 13, 2004 8:18 pm


	dkantola	Re: Pretty gnarly traverse
	Hasn't voted	I did the traverse the same way you describe you did, but I periodically turned completely around or to face uphill to relieve the strain on my feet. It looks like Cornvallis caught me at one of those moments.
		Posted Jul 13, 2004 9:15 pm