Darren9 - May 18, 2009 2:04 am Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2006
Its all there
Friend and I climbed this route - but didn't summit due to weather - in an early season snowstorm. We walked in all the way from the highway, climbed the route and descended in 48 hours. Snowshoes and a shovel were essential pieces of equipment as we had to do all of our own routefinding on the way in and out, and actually tunneled through the cornice at the top of the couloir. The ice cliff, bergschrund, and couloir were all in fine shape (not too hard and icy yet) and fun. This route has got it all and lots of adventure.
DBaker - Sep 17, 2007 6:01 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2007
Surprisingly good conditions...
Bergschrud quite impressive, but fun to negotiate. For the most part the ice was very solid and plastic, but certainly more challenging than it was on my attempt earlier in the season! Brought a set of small tri-cams for protecting on the adjacent walls, which worked well.
mvs - Jan 6, 2018 5:07 pm
Re: In a dayI was along once! I remember you disappeared behind a rock and came back with some cams :p.
ExcitableBoy - Dec 30, 2010 9:42 am
In a dayCouple of times
Darren9 - May 18, 2009 2:04 am Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2006
Its all thereFriend and I climbed this route - but didn't summit due to weather - in an early season snowstorm. We walked in all the way from the highway, climbed the route and descended in 48 hours. Snowshoes and a shovel were essential pieces of equipment as we had to do all of our own routefinding on the way in and out, and actually tunneled through the cornice at the top of the couloir. The ice cliff, bergschrund, and couloir were all in fine shape (not too hard and icy yet) and fun. This route has got it all and lots of adventure.
DBaker - Sep 17, 2007 6:01 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2007
Surprisingly good conditions...Bergschrud quite impressive, but fun to negotiate. For the most part the ice was very solid and plastic, but certainly more challenging than it was on my attempt earlier in the season! Brought a set of small tri-cams for protecting on the adjacent walls, which worked well.