Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.7 |
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Approach
Drive to the Breadloaves parking lot located at the end of a short spur road just outside the west gate of the Reserve. The route is located on near the northeast corner of the Super Hits-Bloody Fingers Wall - a small formation sandwiched inbetween the Upper and Lower Breadloaves formations. From the parking lot, take a well-beaten climbers' trail that squeezes inbetween the Upper Breadloaves and Super Hits-Bloody Fingers formations. The approach involves about 100 yards of walking on a flat trail. The route is located near the entrance to the corridor between Upper Breadloaves and Super Hits-Bloody Fingers. Look for a crack with a good ledge about half-way up the formation (see photo).
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Route Description
The route is one pitch long and follows a meandering crack system part of the way up the Super Hits-Bloody Fingers Wall (top can probably be reached via a 4th class slab scramble). The crux comes about 20 feet above the ground and involves moving left under a bulge and then pulling over the bulge onto a good ledge. The top portion of the route follows a good hand crack. Belay on gear anchor at the top.
Descent:
From top of route (no bolted anchor or any good rap anchor), scramble right (climber's right) down the low angle chimney system. The scramble is 4th class with one or two low fifth class downclimb moves just above the ground.
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Essential Gear
Good assortment of nuts and cams up to #2 Camalot (c. 2.5 inches) including a few tiny cams for lower half of route. One or two long slings as the route meanders a little bit. Single rope.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.