Hotlum headwall

Hotlum headwall

As I swing freely from the first belay on the headwall, an unusually tilted north-side view is seen (also, beta for those going up the right side)
pjc30943
on Jul 13, 2007 6:17 pm
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 311675

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rhyang

rhyang - Jul 13, 2007 6:34 pm - Voted 10/10

Rating ?

So what did you think of the headwall - 5.6 ? 5.8 ? How many pitches ? Pro used ?

Nice job !

pjc30943 - Jul 14, 2007 12:30 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Rating ?

The rating probably depends on which way one goes up exactly. The way we went seems like it'd be 5.7, the majority being 5.6...and with a few 5.8 moves. Although taking loose rock into consideration, the rating should be 5.10:)
We brought a sparse rack. 2 cams: a link cam which proved very useful, and an orange TCU...two tricams: brown 1.5, pink 0.5...four nuts: non-overlapping sizes up to BD red...six alpine draws: 5 single, 1 double.
Everything was placed except for the second-to-smallest nut. A size 3 cam would have been really useful, but of course we didn't bring one.
If we were to do it again: tricams up to 1.5" and one larger one, link cam size 1, a few nuts, and two small TCUs.

rhyang

rhyang - Jul 15, 2007 9:44 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Rating ?

Cool ! How long was the route (# pitches) ?

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