Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.81670°N / 35.16670°E |
Route Type:
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Moderate Snow-Ice-Rock |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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AD-,III UIAA |
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Approach
The best camping place is Sokullupinar or Kayacik Pinari in the Narpuz Valley. The height difference from Narpuz Valley to the top is 1400 m. and 1100 m. of it is the couloir itself.
After you get into the Narpuz Valley turn left and start to climb a long scree just before the first "gate" in the valley. At this point you will see the valley is blocked with rocks.
When scree turns right you will see the couloir.
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Route Description
In late spring and early summer is the best season for this route. In winter there is a huge danger of avalanche on the route.
Routre finding can be very tricky on the route. So, you had better to be prepared for a long climb.
Always take the right hands on the forks. There are very exposed gullies leading to right and left. Never take them and try to stick the main line. This line gets steeper and narrower in upper sections. After that you will see the notch to north side. Just before the notch climb up the right side and get the summit ridge.
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Essential Gear
Ace axe, crampons and helmet. Some people use rope and may need if they get lost.