Dow Williams - Feb 4, 2023 2:28 pm Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2023
Grit Roof- 50’-5.11a**
(modern guides and MP.com both have it at 5.11a vs 5.10c as published on this page) This is an outstanding right facing hands corner to hands roof at Hall of Horrors. The crux is the hands out roof with no feet for a second. Once you get your left foot up at a positive stance, the crack above widens but features below grade arm bars before the angle eases up to the fixed rap. A must do in the park. Single to #5, double #1’s to #2’s. Gets sun most of the day.
Dow Williams - Mar 25, 2019 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2019
Lay Back and Enjoy It, 5.9
Not listed in the local guides as of 2019 but on MP.com has it at 5.9. An alternative start to House of the Homeless. Bolted wide crack to the right. You can OW up the crack to even with the first bolt which is way off the deck. Clip and come out to the wildly exposed dike. Make a steep move or two and finish on House of Homeless. Dow
Dow Williams - Mar 25, 2019 1:25 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2019
House of the Homeless, 5.8*
Fully bolted. A sandbagged route my Jtree standards (5.9 in MP.com). Exposed start to first clip. Stem up and commit to the main wall on good grips, but steep ground to first clip. The crux is trending up and right to reach the second clip. Steep slab and edges. Then layback up the short flakes to the next clip. Rap anchor which is set back and needs extending to set up top rope. Dow
Climbed most of the routes (up to 11A) on the formations when I frequented Joshua Tree in the mid 80s. Some very good climbs are found here.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:53 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Flash Gordon, 5.7
Part of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. Kind of a must do if already doing routes at this rock as it goes to the top in one easy pitch. They removed the top anchors, so rap Dog Day Afternoon, pull the rope and climb it, a good 5.10 sport route on the arete.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:52 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Garden Angel, 5.10a
Part of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. Worth doing if you are already at this rock. Zach went right, more of a direct start (placed a piece), I came in from left, felt more like 5.10 from that direction. Fun slabby arete. Left hand gets bomber holds on the arete itself. Runout but easy up top. The walk off to the left is real easy and quick.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Cactus Flower, 5.11b
Part of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. Zach got it on sight. Tough couple moves for me. Got to spread for that right crack pretty fast. Once up on the ramp, don't go right, but rather make a small jump (5'11" just out of reach) for the horn on Perhaps. Finish off on that route.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Perhaps, 5.9
Part of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. I thought worth doing for sure even though does not get the accolades of Lazy Day. A bit run out, but move right, then back left up high and it all goes pretty tame. We also did the 5.11b that finished off on this route. Zach got it on sight.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:49 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Dog Day Afternoon, 5.10b
Part of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. Nice north facing arete (but not great or classic by any means). We did not take any gear up it. The run out part is much easier than the start I thought.
Dow Williams - Feb 4, 2023 2:28 pm Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2023
Grit Roof- 50’-5.11a**(modern guides and MP.com both have it at 5.11a vs 5.10c as published on this page) This is an outstanding right facing hands corner to hands roof at Hall of Horrors. The crux is the hands out roof with no feet for a second. Once you get your left foot up at a positive stance, the crack above widens but features below grade arm bars before the angle eases up to the fixed rap. A must do in the park. Single to #5, double #1’s to #2’s. Gets sun most of the day.
Dow Williams - Mar 25, 2019 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2019
Lay Back and Enjoy It, 5.9Not listed in the local guides as of 2019 but on MP.com has it at 5.9. An alternative start to House of the Homeless. Bolted wide crack to the right. You can OW up the crack to even with the first bolt which is way off the deck. Clip and come out to the wildly exposed dike. Make a steep move or two and finish on House of Homeless. Dow
Dow Williams - Mar 25, 2019 1:25 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2019
House of the Homeless, 5.8*Fully bolted. A sandbagged route my Jtree standards (5.9 in MP.com). Exposed start to first clip. Stem up and commit to the main wall on good grips, but steep ground to first clip. The crux is trending up and right to reach the second clip. Steep slab and edges. Then layback up the short flakes to the next clip. Rap anchor which is set back and needs extending to set up top rope. Dow
asmrz - Sep 8, 2011 12:27 pm
Climbed all of the routes in the 80sClimbed most of the routes (up to 11A) on the formations when I frequented Joshua Tree in the mid 80s. Some very good climbs are found here.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:53 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Flash Gordon, 5.7Part of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. Kind of a must do if already doing routes at this rock as it goes to the top in one easy pitch. They removed the top anchors, so rap Dog Day Afternoon, pull the rope and climb it, a good 5.10 sport route on the arete.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:52 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Garden Angel, 5.10aPart of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. Worth doing if you are already at this rock. Zach went right, more of a direct start (placed a piece), I came in from left, felt more like 5.10 from that direction. Fun slabby arete. Left hand gets bomber holds on the arete itself. Runout but easy up top. The walk off to the left is real easy and quick.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Cactus Flower, 5.11bPart of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. Zach got it on sight. Tough couple moves for me. Got to spread for that right crack pretty fast. Once up on the ramp, don't go right, but rather make a small jump (5'11" just out of reach) for the horn on Perhaps. Finish off on that route.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Perhaps, 5.9Part of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. I thought worth doing for sure even though does not get the accolades of Lazy Day. A bit run out, but move right, then back left up high and it all goes pretty tame. We also did the 5.11b that finished off on this route. Zach got it on sight.
Dow Williams - Mar 5, 2011 2:49 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2011
Dog Day Afternoon, 5.10bPart of a 10 route day with Zach. Great weather, no other climbers present all day at any location we climbed. Nice north facing arete (but not great or classic by any means). We did not take any gear up it. The run out part is much easier than the start I thought.