Excellent excellent report. Thanks very much for your time and effort. I feel much more confident now about making this climb. We're scheduled to start at the Mystic Lake TH on 2 August 2016.
I'm hoping you have time for a few clarifying questions:
(1) You said you brought 100 ft of rope on your first ascent. Like you, I'd prefer to have rope with me in case fellow hikers or I would prefer or need it. Would 100 ft be enough for all applications including the rappels? Could I get along with less? We'd need to double the rope up for a fireman's rappel in order to retrieve it from the rappels, so 100 foot rope should give us a 50 foot rappel. Also, although the gear will weigh us down, I assume rappelling the descent is faster and safer than down climbing. When you rappel down, do you take the same route down or are there alternative walls? Thoughts?
(2) I've always had good luck on snow bridges with my hiking poles, increasing my base and stability. If we do have a rope, perhaps we might belay across it to avoid repeating the story you mentioned. Are there points on both sides to anchor in to? Would you say these are two good methods for getting across?
(3) Last time my daughter and I had to turn back after we reached FTDP from Mystic Lake due to weather and time constraints. Also we were out of water. I appreciate your mentioning that water is typically available on the plateau. It didn't seem to be so last year. Are we primarily looking for little rivulets through the stones or what?
(4) Sounds like you're saying that from the trailhead to the jump off point is about 11.5 miles with 5,400 ft elevation gain. Sound about right? Our aim, as seems typical, would be to bang that all out on day 1.
(5) How many hours before sunrise would you recommend starting on summit day?
(6) See any goats?
(7) Is the benchmark on the summit obvious or do you have to search around for it quite a bit?
(1) As I mentioned, I've never actually used ropes on Granite so not sure if 100' would be adequate for a fireman's rappel on all the pitches. Pretty sure it wouldn't be on the top pitch and probably not the bottom chimney so I brought some anchors along just in case. None of the pitches are more than 100' but one of my concerns when I took my sons and nephews was me being able to rap down with only 100'. I figured I would belay them down and rap down if the need arised. I was confident in my ability to down climb in good conditions. I would suggest asking someone else who has actually used ropes on Granite for a better answer.
(2) In my 4 crossings the snow bridge has never been an issue that time of year. The one time it was still intact there was a well worn trail across it. I have read some reports of folks belaying across it earlier in the season. Walking sticks might be useful in general but I don't think they will be necessary. This year was not a big snow pack year so I don't think the Snow Bridge will be an issue in Aug. I've never actually looked for anchor points there but I know it's been done and 100' will be more than adequate.
(3) As I also mentioned, try to plan at least one extra day for weather or whatever else. Two would be better. In my five trips (2002-2011) up to FTDP I have always found water plentiful on the Eastern and middle section of the plateau. The West side is dry. So not sure why you found it scarce. And yes, you're looking for small rivulet's or pot holes.
(4) Yes, my best estimate is about 11.5 miles from trailhead to the jump off point. The advertised distance is 10. The trailhead elevation is approx 6700 and the jump off elevation is 12,100 so about 5400' net gain. If you're in good alpine shape you should have no problem making the far side of the plateau in less than a day baring weather delays. An early morning start would be good to account for a possible storm or shower delay. They usually pass through in 1/2 to 1 hour. You might consider camping Just to the West of the last of the small peaks West of FTD Mountain. There is water there and you won't have to pack it to the West side of the plateau as well as having a supply for climb day. It's an extra hour hike to get to the jump off but worth it IMO. I've base camped down on FTD Lake on 3 occasions and no problem reaching the summit in good time with a sun up departure.
(5) It gets light about 0530 that time of year. If you get going by 6, you should reach the summit by 10-11. I wouldn't try trekking that terrain in the dark if I didn't have to.
(6) I have always seen goats up there.
(7) The Benchmark will be obvious.
Good luck and would love to hear about your experience.
Matt Lemke - Jun 29, 2016 6:17 am - Voted 9/10
Very useful!Thanks for submitting this. Adds a lot. May I suggest adding a primary photo to make the submission complete! Nice write up
hyalite01 - Jun 29, 2016 6:34 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Very useful!Done. Thanks
Moonknightca - Jul 26, 2016 6:44 pm - Hasn't voted
Fantastic PostExcellent excellent report. Thanks very much for your time and effort. I feel much more confident now about making this climb. We're scheduled to start at the Mystic Lake TH on 2 August 2016.
I'm hoping you have time for a few clarifying questions:
(1) You said you brought 100 ft of rope on your first ascent. Like you, I'd prefer to have rope with me in case fellow hikers or I would prefer or need it. Would 100 ft be enough for all applications including the rappels? Could I get along with less? We'd need to double the rope up for a fireman's rappel in order to retrieve it from the rappels, so 100 foot rope should give us a 50 foot rappel. Also, although the gear will weigh us down, I assume rappelling the descent is faster and safer than down climbing. When you rappel down, do you take the same route down or are there alternative walls? Thoughts?
(2) I've always had good luck on snow bridges with my hiking poles, increasing my base and stability. If we do have a rope, perhaps we might belay across it to avoid repeating the story you mentioned. Are there points on both sides to anchor in to? Would you say these are two good methods for getting across?
(3) Last time my daughter and I had to turn back after we reached FTDP from Mystic Lake due to weather and time constraints. Also we were out of water. I appreciate your mentioning that water is typically available on the plateau. It didn't seem to be so last year. Are we primarily looking for little rivulets through the stones or what?
(4) Sounds like you're saying that from the trailhead to the jump off point is about 11.5 miles with 5,400 ft elevation gain. Sound about right? Our aim, as seems typical, would be to bang that all out on day 1.
(5) How many hours before sunrise would you recommend starting on summit day?
(6) See any goats?
(7) Is the benchmark on the summit obvious or do you have to search around for it quite a bit?
Thanks again for your time and help,
Wes H.
Lafayette, CA
hyalite01 - Jul 26, 2016 11:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Fantastic PostWes,
Glad you enjoyed the write up.
(1) As I mentioned, I've never actually used ropes on Granite so not sure if 100' would be adequate for a fireman's rappel on all the pitches. Pretty sure it wouldn't be on the top pitch and probably not the bottom chimney so I brought some anchors along just in case. None of the pitches are more than 100' but one of my concerns when I took my sons and nephews was me being able to rap down with only 100'. I figured I would belay them down and rap down if the need arised. I was confident in my ability to down climb in good conditions. I would suggest asking someone else who has actually used ropes on Granite for a better answer.
(2) In my 4 crossings the snow bridge has never been an issue that time of year. The one time it was still intact there was a well worn trail across it. I have read some reports of folks belaying across it earlier in the season. Walking sticks might be useful in general but I don't think they will be necessary. This year was not a big snow pack year so I don't think the Snow Bridge will be an issue in Aug. I've never actually looked for anchor points there but I know it's been done and 100' will be more than adequate.
(3) As I also mentioned, try to plan at least one extra day for weather or whatever else. Two would be better. In my five trips (2002-2011) up to FTDP I have always found water plentiful on the Eastern and middle section of the plateau. The West side is dry. So not sure why you found it scarce. And yes, you're looking for small rivulet's or pot holes.
(4) Yes, my best estimate is about 11.5 miles from trailhead to the jump off point. The advertised distance is 10. The trailhead elevation is approx 6700 and the jump off elevation is 12,100 so about 5400' net gain. If you're in good alpine shape you should have no problem making the far side of the plateau in less than a day baring weather delays. An early morning start would be good to account for a possible storm or shower delay. They usually pass through in 1/2 to 1 hour. You might consider camping Just to the West of the last of the small peaks West of FTD Mountain. There is water there and you won't have to pack it to the West side of the plateau as well as having a supply for climb day. It's an extra hour hike to get to the jump off but worth it IMO. I've base camped down on FTD Lake on 3 occasions and no problem reaching the summit in good time with a sun up departure.
(5) It gets light about 0530 that time of year. If you get going by 6, you should reach the summit by 10-11. I wouldn't try trekking that terrain in the dark if I didn't have to.
(6) I have always seen goats up there.
(7) The Benchmark will be obvious.
Good luck and would love to hear about your experience.
Mark
hyalite01 - Jul 27, 2016 2:00 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Fantastic PostI'm a pretty quick down climber so that has been what I've always done. YMMV
Moonknightca - Jul 27, 2016 2:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Fantastic PostThanks again Mark. I appreciate all that good intel. Off I go! -Wes